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So today I rented a compression tester because I've never used one before and this was a good chance to.
I looked up eric the car guys video on how to. I did a wet and dry test like he said.
I did from left to right and got 120psi dry and 180psi wet on all 4. Are these numbers correct for the LNF? I know some of the LSJ motors get way different numbers. I thought it was a bit strange that it was 100% identical across all 4 cylinders.
I installed new plugs as well.
Also I do have more bad news. code p0011 which are the cam solenoids I believe. When it rains it ******* pours boys lol!.
update : replaced the solenoids codes cleared and gone and back in boost. also had that low boost code.
think the retainer came in going to pick it up soon.
I think after this I'm doing the pump . I'm learning a lot about these cars anyways :P.
Those numbers sound about right. The actual numbers will vary depending on the tester; it is more important that the numbers be close to the same on each cylinder. It is strange to have them all identical but in a perfect world that would mean that you have the exact same compression across all cylinders, which is good.
If you decide to go through with replacing the water pump I would replace the chain tensioners and guides as well while you are in there.
Those numbers sound about right. The actual numbers will vary depending on the tester; it is more important that the numbers be close to the same on each cylinder. It is strange to have them all identical but in a perfect world that would mean that you have the exact same compression across all cylinders, which is good.
If you decide to go through with replacing the water pump I would replace the chain tensioners and guides as well while you are in there.
I just got the retainer today and installed my second fan. It is working but still isn't driving down temps. I noticed today my temps started rising at idle and I was just under the car before and noticed the rad was just slightly warm. I watched the temps rise to 110 or so and then I revved it at 3000rpm for about 10 seconds and temperature started dropping and the rad turned hot to the touch.
That to me says the pump is randomly not pushing water around. Only when it's forced to do so it seems.
Also I talked to my mechanic and he said he can't do the pump it's a dealer only thing and basically told me that he's super busy and see ya later type of deal. I think me telling him that the fan wasn't even mounted pissed him off slightly. Although that's why I freaking paid him to check the car for overheating problems. So if he didn't check the fan no doubt he didn't do much. Time for a new mechanic and I'll keep fixing what I can fix.
I'm going to go under the car again and see how car it is to get at those bolts that are on the thermostat side of the pipe. There are some hard lines in the way and a bracket that goes to the exhaust and the block I think. The hardest bolt to remove would be the one by the sensor on the pipe. I'll have to see. I'd rather not take it to the dealer because I might as well get rid of the car for that kind of money . Thanks for the reply.
Water pump is not dealer only, though it is a bit of a pain in the ass. The main issue is that there isn't much room to work.
Yeah I thought he was bullshitting me there. Because if I can do it he can do it easier with a hoist. I used to have access to one and it made things a breeze.
I did go to the dealer today because I was going that way. They want around $700 to do the pump not including taxes.
I'll probably get the pump soon I found one for $80 bucks just gotta get the holding tool as well. Something else I'm trying too.
Hey guys just a update. Went to another mechanic today and they found the problem in about 30 mins. He says the heater core is plugged. I don't think it's completely plugged or whatever but enough to restrict flow I suppose. I'll find out wednesday when they flush the core if that's what it was the whole time.
It's strange because I can get heat like crazy. He said the way the new cars are they have it so that temps are more regulated with the way the coolant flows. He drew a diagram for me but I didn't really get it 100%. I'll update then.
left is burning hot right is warm to the touch when it starts to overheat.
So I added a new tank cap and coolant doesn't shoot out anymore. But now the car overheats with the heat on after about 30 minutes of driving. I pull over shut it off turn the heat off and temps start to drop right after. Today I checked the hoses they worked on and the on on the right is slightly warm and the other one is burning hot so there has to be some restriction still. After the overheat today I came home and felt those hoses and I turned the heat on again at idle and both went hot to the touch. So something is blocking the flow of that one hose. I'm taking it in to them again and have them do it since I paid them $170 already. Coolant levels are perfect now.
left is burning hot right is warm to the touch when it starts to overheat.
So I added a new tank cap and coolant doesn't shoot out anymore. But now the car overheats with the heat on after about 30 minutes of driving. I pull over shut it off turn the heat off and temps start to drop right after. Today I checked the hoses they worked on and the on on the right is slightly warm and the other one is burning hot so there has to be some restriction still. After the overheat today I came home and felt those hoses and I turned the heat on again at idle and both went hot to the touch. So something is blocking the flow of that one hose. I'm taking it in to them again and have them do it since I paid them $170 already. Coolant levels are perfect now.
*update*
Took a vacation day today so I could leave them the car all day. They did another heater core flush and then they drove it with the heat on and it overheated. So yeah same thing. I just installed another thermostat just to make sure. This one is a acdelco mexico not a china but it still does the same thing. So yeah I'm stumped and I needed this car for the winter. Guess I'm driving the Camaro this winter again.
That sucks you're having this issue. I don't see how it could have been a plugged heater core. A plugged core does not impede the main coolant flow. You may be right thinking it's the water pump. I'd either do it myself or take it elsewhere. You've wasted enough money on this guy.
That sucks you're having this issue. I don't see how it could have been a plugged heater core. A plugged core does not impede the main coolant flow. You may be right thinking it's the water pump. I'd either do it myself or take it elsewhere. You've wasted enough money on this guy.
Yeah the first mechanic was closer to me and he said it was ok. These guys have been in town over 20 years and fix everything so I figured they would get it. Only thing I can do now is maybe go to the dealer or do the pump myself. So far i'm about 250 into trying to get a mechanic to find the issue. Thanks for replying. Can't wait to figure out what the problem really is.
It's weird because the cobalt's cooling system isn't any different than other systems. The water pump feeds a pipe that goes along the back/side of the block, then the housing splits the heater line, but that comes back to the same housing. After the housing it goes through the thermostat. It's really not complicated.
Hope you guys can give me some idea of what's going on with the car. I might have introduced air into the system through the overflow due to opening it when it was still hot. Obviously not advisable but I had a brain fart. It bubbled up and think that's what started all this but not sure.
Just recently I noticed a low coolant error and checked the overflow and it seemed alright. I didn't have any deathcool handy so I added a bit of water to top it off. Might be doing a full flush anyways but that's what it is.
I noticed temp spikes going up to 113c so 235f and when I rev it up a bit it will drop back down to 87 or lower but will go back up again some minutes later. Just tonight I had the overflow full and I was driving the car hard to see if I could raise the temps because it was holding ok. But then I smelled coolant because the overflow pissed most of it out on my tire. I drove home with the temps randomly spiking and I would just rev a bit to lower the temps again. The upper rad hose sometimes has pressure but seems weak and seems to have lost fluid now again from the overflow pissing it out. When the system was full the rad hose was hard not like now. Almost seems like it's boiling and pissing out the overflow but I can't be sure. I can do a full dexool flush if need be but I didn't think a bit of water would hurt.
Temp outside is about 15c 59f and the other day it did something similar even at a colder temp.
It's like I'm chasing this bubble around the system. I think on another forum someone said they fixed a similar issue with squeezing the upper rad hose 30+ times to get the air out but that doesn't seem to do anything with me.
Oil seems fine exhaust seems fine as well. I've been reading about the cracked/porous blocks but don't think I have that problem. Or at least I hope not.
Thank you very much for any help or ideas.
Im having the exact same issue. Ever figure out what it was? I did the water pump, flushed the heater core, replaces the thermostat, brand new radiator, brand new rad hoses, everything. But it wont stop f**kin overheating. Been fighting it for close to a year.
Im having the exact same issue. Ever figure out what it was? I did the water pump, flushed the heater core, replaces the thermostat, brand new radiator, brand new rad hoses, everything. But it wont stop f**kin overheating. Been fighting it for close to a year.
Hey. Lucky this went into my spam folder and was doing some cleanup and noticed your question.
I don't visit this forum anymore.
Yeah it was a heas gasket for sure. I ended up selling the car to a guy that had some other balts. Told him about the issues but he didn't much are just gave me cash and off he went.
I have a new 08 now that i've used as a daily for some years now so I know these cars well now lol. No issues with this one just a couple of small things like the control arm bushings and she doesn't like to go into reverse so the shifter is hitting or the shifter cables are messed up. Other than that it's all good here.
Funny I had that car at 2 local mechanics and they had no idea what to do. Crazy.
07-26-2016 | 07:00 PM
. I'm learning a lot about these cars anyways :P.
. Thanks for the reply.
