2010 cobalt ss lunges when parkd
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2010 cobalt ss lunges when parkd
its happend to me 3 times so far. and ive never had this issue with any car befor
exp - parked in my driveway . parked in first. put e-brake up turnd ignition off removed key let out clutch and car jumped forward. almost like it would do per say if ur parked in first and u start the car with the ebrake down and without pressing the clutch not as violent but not far off.. i had the ebrake fully engaged . *no it wasnt the normal car bogging down when u let off the brake with the e-brake engaged"
exp - parked in my driveway . parked in first. put e-brake up turnd ignition off removed key let out clutch and car jumped forward. almost like it would do per say if ur parked in first and u start the car with the ebrake down and without pressing the clutch not as violent but not far off.. i had the ebrake fully engaged . *no it wasnt the normal car bogging down when u let off the brake with the e-brake engaged"
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oh okay thanks. i just started thinking bout that. cause of the turbo or something the car motor cranks down slow or something? i cant remember i remember reading somthing bout it years ago lol.. thanks
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the ebrake doesnt hold for **** on my car. even on a slight hill with it engaged fully the car drifts. i know because ive sat in it in N with the brake on listening to the radio and then realized oh f#ck im moving
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best words of advice. Turn the car off in neutral, and let the engine come to a full stop. then just put it in whatever gear you use for "park." also use the ebrake.
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#13
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A factory turbo charged engine USUALLY has lower compression than a NA. Of course that is with no boost = manifold VACUUM. Lower compression = turns easier = takes longer to stop turning.
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Are they adjustable? Also, do you know if there's a "fifth" brake pad inside our rear rotors? My stratus was like that, had pads inside the rear disc.
#15
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Sorry, no seperate pad for the park brake, it just pushes the piston out on the regular service brake. **** poor design but it saves the general a couple of bucks per car
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#17
And before you go and say "its cheaper", maybe you should know the facts first, because that is not necessarily true.
Last edited by 08SSTCRD; 07-05-2010 at 05:14 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#18
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Thats called a drum-in-hat setup. It uses the inside of the rotor as a parking brake drum. It uses drum brake shoes, not pads, therefore there is no "5th set of pads". Its a set of parking brake shoes and hardware to hold them in place. However, the SS S/C and T/C do not uses that setup, they have the parking brake in the caliper.
If its such a **** poor design why do almost half of all cars with rear disc brakes uses this setup?? There is nothing inherently wrong with the design at all. Drum-in-hat parking brakes tend to hold better, but neither is necessarily better than the other.
And before you go and say "its cheaper", maybe you should know the facts first, because that is not necessarily true.
If its such a **** poor design why do almost half of all cars with rear disc brakes uses this setup?? There is nothing inherently wrong with the design at all. Drum-in-hat parking brakes tend to hold better, but neither is necessarily better than the other.
And before you go and say "its cheaper", maybe you should know the facts first, because that is not necessarily true.
Simple fact, GM (nor any of their competitors) will NOT do anything on their econobox which puts them at a competitive disadvantage to the other econoboxes on the market.
If you have "facts" to the contrary I would love to see them.
Why is it a bad design?
When you use your brakes, they get hot, right?
What happens to your brakes when they get hot? The rotor expands, the pads expand.
Park your car, pull on the park brake, let it sit. What happens now?
Everything cools off and contracts. As the parts contract, there is less clamping force applied to the rotor - the brakes back off and your car rolls down the driveway.
Real world test you can do yourself - get rolling down the road at a decent pace, say 40 - 50 mph. Apply the brake slightly and hold the pedal in the same position* - you will feel the braking becoming more effective as the brakes heat up and expand
*Don't carry this on for too long, don't want anyone warping rotors now
#19
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its happend to me 3 times so far. and ive never had this issue with any car befor
exp - parked in my driveway . parked in first. put e-brake up turnd ignition off removed key let out clutch and car jumped forward. almost like it would do per say if ur parked in first and u start the car with the ebrake down and without pressing the clutch not as violent but not far off.. i had the ebrake fully engaged . *no it wasnt the normal car bogging down when u let off the brake with the e-brake engaged"
exp - parked in my driveway . parked in first. put e-brake up turnd ignition off removed key let out clutch and car jumped forward. almost like it would do per say if ur parked in first and u start the car with the ebrake down and without pressing the clutch not as violent but not far off.. i had the ebrake fully engaged . *no it wasnt the normal car bogging down when u let off the brake with the e-brake engaged"
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To the OP yes people are correct, wait a few seconds for the motor to wind down, it'll happen on occasion if you forget about it . My 2.2 did the exact same thing if I was too quick to get off the clutch after shutting it off wouldn't say it's any better/worse in the TC, I'm just in the habit.
#21
Why not say it's cheaper - it is. Less parts, easier to assemble on the line = less cost, lower price to the consumer, more profit for the manufacturer.
Simple fact, GM (nor any of their competitors) will NOT do anything on their econobox which puts them at a competitive disadvantage to the other econoboxes on the market.
If you have "facts" to the contrary I would love to see them.
Simple fact, GM (nor any of their competitors) will NOT do anything on their econobox which puts them at a competitive disadvantage to the other econoboxes on the market.
If you have "facts" to the contrary I would love to see them.
I know the facts, as well as the costs of both setups. I'm just waiting to see your bullshit explaination about how its sooo much cheaper, when in reality you are wrong.
Why is it a bad design?
When you use your brakes, they get hot, right?
What happens to your brakes when they get hot? The rotor expands, the pads expand.
Park your car, pull on the park brake, let it sit. What happens now?
Everything cools off and contracts. As the parts contract, there is less clamping force applied to the rotor - the brakes back off and your car rolls down the driveway.
When you use your brakes, they get hot, right?
What happens to your brakes when they get hot? The rotor expands, the pads expand.
Park your car, pull on the park brake, let it sit. What happens now?
Everything cools off and contracts. As the parts contract, there is less clamping force applied to the rotor - the brakes back off and your car rolls down the driveway.
Real world test you can do yourself - get rolling down the road at a decent pace, say 40 - 50 mph. Apply the brake slightly and hold the pedal in the same position* - you will feel the braking becoming more effective as the brakes heat up and expand
Why do you insist on making things up?? Your entire post is a joke, you obviously have no clue about the subject at hand.
#22
Lesson to learn (more like what I learned that day): Make sure you're in 1st/2nd/reverse before parking in gear And e-Brake is always nice as long as it's not raining and winter weather.
#23
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Prove it. You have no clue what you are talking about.
I know the facts, as well as the costs of both setups. I'm just waiting to see your bullshit explaination about how its sooo much cheaper, when in reality you are wrong.
Still waiting for some.......from you. Lower part count, easier assembly = lower cost.
You think that maybe there is a reason BMW, Mercedes, Volvo, Audi, etc use drum in hat setups while the low cost domestics use what they do? Use your head for more than a hatrack.......
That is one of the most foolish statements I have ever read. First of all, brake pads do not "expand". They are not made of metal.
Wtf has metal got to do with it? Everything expands when heated. This is grade school physics, sorry if you didn't pay attention in class.
Second of all, rotors expand outwards. They do not get measureably thicker.
An object, when heated, will expand in equal proportion in all directions - if it gets 10% bigger in diameter it gets 10% thicker. Very measurable.
And we're talking minimal amounts here, in thousandths of an inch. When you apply pressure with the parking brake, that insignificant amount is not going to make any difference.
Every thousandth of an inch counts. I can shrink a bearing race by .003" by cooling it, drop it in a hub. Once the temperatures equalize you will NOT remove it without destroying it. A few thou don't matter?
No you won't. Thats complete bullshit that you just made up. If anything, you will experience brake fade which causes the brakes to work less effectively.
OK, 1/2 a point for you. Yes, the brakes will fade eventually. Before they do, they will tighten up - which of course generates more heat and will bring on fade. Guessing you didn't try it.
Why do you insist on making things up?? Your entire post is a joke, you obviously have no clue about the subject at hand.
I know the facts, as well as the costs of both setups. I'm just waiting to see your bullshit explaination about how its sooo much cheaper, when in reality you are wrong.
Still waiting for some.......from you. Lower part count, easier assembly = lower cost.
You think that maybe there is a reason BMW, Mercedes, Volvo, Audi, etc use drum in hat setups while the low cost domestics use what they do? Use your head for more than a hatrack.......
That is one of the most foolish statements I have ever read. First of all, brake pads do not "expand". They are not made of metal.
Wtf has metal got to do with it? Everything expands when heated. This is grade school physics, sorry if you didn't pay attention in class.
Second of all, rotors expand outwards. They do not get measureably thicker.
An object, when heated, will expand in equal proportion in all directions - if it gets 10% bigger in diameter it gets 10% thicker. Very measurable.
And we're talking minimal amounts here, in thousandths of an inch. When you apply pressure with the parking brake, that insignificant amount is not going to make any difference.
Every thousandth of an inch counts. I can shrink a bearing race by .003" by cooling it, drop it in a hub. Once the temperatures equalize you will NOT remove it without destroying it. A few thou don't matter?
No you won't. Thats complete bullshit that you just made up. If anything, you will experience brake fade which causes the brakes to work less effectively.
OK, 1/2 a point for you. Yes, the brakes will fade eventually. Before they do, they will tighten up - which of course generates more heat and will bring on fade. Guessing you didn't try it.
Why do you insist on making things up?? Your entire post is a joke, you obviously have no clue about the subject at hand.
Ah, never mind - stay in school dude, and study a bit of physics. Or study 4 years of it like I did.
You might be surprised what you learn.
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