Bad clutch master cylinder or air?
02-17-2014, 08:40 PM
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Bad clutch master cylinder or air?
Hey all I am new to this forum I have seen it around though so I am hoping somebody can help me. Recently I replaced the brake master cylinder due to a broken part when I bled the entire brake and clutch system. Now that I have it back in place, I bled the brakes again and they work perfectly! However, bleeding the clutch is a hard challenge I can not figure out, when bleeding sometimes nothing comes out and then sometimes a few dribbles comes out when bleeding from the bleed valve on the tranny from the clutch, no steady stream what so ever. My clutch peddle is soft with no pressure, I have tried multiple things to get it working again however no luck. I even tried to blow air just in to the clutch system with no luck, I think my next step tomorrow is to try vacuuming it, and if that does not work I assume I will have to replace the clutch master cylinder? I was hoping to get some insight if any, Thanks!
2006 Chevy Cobalt LS 2.2L
2006 Chevy Cobalt LS 2.2L
02-18-2014, 12:27 AM
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i know it was hard for me to get a good clutch pedal until i put a pressure bleeder on it. even then you should still be getting some pedal. i would try to take the line off the mc the the cmc and make sure you have fluid going to the cmc. being that you didnt have any issues before that would rule out the slave/tob.
and it would be hard to believe that the cmc would just go bad to. so just to reiterate just make sure you have fluid going down to the cmc and then try and get ahold of a pressure bleeder because it some how must of got really air locked.
and it would be hard to believe that the cmc would just go bad to. so just to reiterate just make sure you have fluid going down to the cmc and then try and get ahold of a pressure bleeder because it some how must of got really air locked.
02-18-2014, 07:05 PM
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02-19-2014, 12:45 AM
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Hey all thanks for the replies, after a stressful week of screwing around with this thing I said f it and took it to a local shop here in Colorado and let the pros do it, after a few hours I got the call to come pick it up, apparently we went down there and asked them what the banana was going on, they did not really know but it took them that whole three hours to completely bleed the clutch and brake system again, however they had an automatic bleeder which proved useful with some classic tricks apparently to get the clutch line to bleed, they really never seen it before but all in all could of been a simple blockage in the line? Least they fixed it and for cheap, the only reason why I replaced the brake master cylinder was because the piece connecting that to the clutch master cylinder broke off the line because it was a plastic brittle piece, still I am glad they fixed it.
02-19-2014, 10:01 PM
#10
02-19-2014, 10:52 PM
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OP, glad you got it sorted.
I have never had to conventionally bleed a cobalt clutch yet since I made up an adapter for my hand vacuum pump on the first one and have used it many times successfully since.
The MAJORITY of master cyl failures that occur during working on the system are due to foreign object ingestion that ruins the seals or overtravel during bleeding or moving the pedal while the system is open, allowing the seal to pass over an area that is not normally swept and may have a layer of crud on it that ruins the seals. There's only so much you can do to avoid this, but if you can use a vacuum system to bleed the car and never have to pump the pedal aggressively you can get away with re-using the stock master for a very long time. Keeping good clean fluid in the system is also essential when it comes time to service everything.
I have never had to conventionally bleed a cobalt clutch yet since I made up an adapter for my hand vacuum pump on the first one and have used it many times successfully since.
The MAJORITY of master cyl failures that occur during working on the system are due to foreign object ingestion that ruins the seals or overtravel during bleeding or moving the pedal while the system is open, allowing the seal to pass over an area that is not normally swept and may have a layer of crud on it that ruins the seals. There's only so much you can do to avoid this, but if you can use a vacuum system to bleed the car and never have to pump the pedal aggressively you can get away with re-using the stock master for a very long time. Keeping good clean fluid in the system is also essential when it comes time to service everything.
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