Check Charging System light
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-18-11
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Check Charging System light
Hello,
I am having charging problems with my cobalt. When driving through town I get a "Check Charging System" light that pops on. I have replaced the battery and 3 alternators hoping to solve this problem. The alternator is not getting power sent off of it. I don't know if the computer could be fried or if something else might be going on. Any help would be appreciated!!
I am having charging problems with my cobalt. When driving through town I get a "Check Charging System" light that pops on. I have replaced the battery and 3 alternators hoping to solve this problem. The alternator is not getting power sent off of it. I don't know if the computer could be fried or if something else might be going on. Any help would be appreciated!!
#4
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-18-11
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do you know where all the grounds are at to check them?
Update I did take it in to a stealership. There was a anti-theft light on. It ended up not starting when they went to work on it. They replaced the anti-theft module and thought that was the problem. I was going to take it to the car wash after I got it back home and got 2 blocks from home and the "Check charging system" light came on along with the batt light.
Update I did take it in to a stealership. There was a anti-theft light on. It ended up not starting when they went to work on it. They replaced the anti-theft module and thought that was the problem. I was going to take it to the car wash after I got it back home and got 2 blocks from home and the "Check charging system" light came on along with the batt light.
#7
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-18-11
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There was also a note when I got my car back that it was either alternator or could possibly an ECM? I just usually like to know what is wrong and what they need to do to fix the problem.
#10
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-18-11
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Its the Duralast. I have tested the volts. It is intermittent on what the volts will be. I get 14.7 running down 2 12 or less. Every time I have it tested (@the part store) the voltage regulator fails the test. I thought maybe one possibly 2 but wouldnt think 3 alternators would be bad.
#18
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-18-11
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Got it taken in so well see what they have to say. Before I took it in I had the alternator tested (again) and it decided today that it was putting out 15 some volts. So I know thats overdoing it.
Last edited by 06 Victory Red SS; 01-18-2015 at 06:24 PM.
#23
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
FYI, the Autozone alternators are remanufactured OEM. They just take the sticker off. They may be hit-or-miss about if they fix the broken part (I can't comment) but my experience has been fine.
Here's my story: I replaced my engine. While removing the alternator I broke the flange where the B+ stud connects. I bought a used alternator from a junkyard for $75 bucks. It came looking like it had come from a shipwreck, but I took it to Autozone to get bench tested and it passed. Stuck it on and had some weird issues like boost gauge reading high vacuum at idle intermittently and charging voltage around 12V. I tried narrowing down cheap stuff first, but figured it was probably the alternator since it looked like death. I narrowed as much as I could (thinking that the voltage was an effect rather than the cause of my symptoms) until I got to the alternator. I got one from Autozone, had it tested (passed) and put it in. The alternator from Autozone had the wrong plug piece so I swapped it with my original alternator. Same result. Then I started checking some potential readings. When I put the leads on the positive post and the chassis I was getting <12V. When I put the negative lead on the engine itself it read 14.6V, so I knew it was a loose ground. The connection on the engine was loose so it intermittently worked. Luckily when I was testing that day it wasn't getting a good connection so I could test it. I tightened it up and it was 14.6V solid. I kept the Autozone alternator because 1. you're not supposed to return after install unless it's bad, and 2. my junkyard one looked like death and was probably on borrowed time anyways. Lifetime warranty is nice too.
15V charging is obviously too much. If they test and say that the voltage regulator is bad then obviously don't put it on the car and wait for a new one. The crappy part about the autozone warranty is that it can take forever to get a good one since they have to ship it each time. But <12V sounds just like mine. What didn't make sense to me (before I knew it was the ground issue) is why did the voltage drop to below the battery static voltage, then climb back up after the car was off? Once I found the ground issue it made total sense.
Here's my story: I replaced my engine. While removing the alternator I broke the flange where the B+ stud connects. I bought a used alternator from a junkyard for $75 bucks. It came looking like it had come from a shipwreck, but I took it to Autozone to get bench tested and it passed. Stuck it on and had some weird issues like boost gauge reading high vacuum at idle intermittently and charging voltage around 12V. I tried narrowing down cheap stuff first, but figured it was probably the alternator since it looked like death. I narrowed as much as I could (thinking that the voltage was an effect rather than the cause of my symptoms) until I got to the alternator. I got one from Autozone, had it tested (passed) and put it in. The alternator from Autozone had the wrong plug piece so I swapped it with my original alternator. Same result. Then I started checking some potential readings. When I put the leads on the positive post and the chassis I was getting <12V. When I put the negative lead on the engine itself it read 14.6V, so I knew it was a loose ground. The connection on the engine was loose so it intermittently worked. Luckily when I was testing that day it wasn't getting a good connection so I could test it. I tightened it up and it was 14.6V solid. I kept the Autozone alternator because 1. you're not supposed to return after install unless it's bad, and 2. my junkyard one looked like death and was probably on borrowed time anyways. Lifetime warranty is nice too.
15V charging is obviously too much. If they test and say that the voltage regulator is bad then obviously don't put it on the car and wait for a new one. The crappy part about the autozone warranty is that it can take forever to get a good one since they have to ship it each time. But <12V sounds just like mine. What didn't make sense to me (before I knew it was the ground issue) is why did the voltage drop to below the battery static voltage, then climb back up after the car was off? Once I found the ground issue it made total sense.