Check those Engine Coolant Temperature Sensors
#1
Thread Starter
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,331
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From: NEPA
Check those Engine Coolant Temperature Sensors
Hey guys, I haven't provided a nice helpful thread in a while, and thought it was time.... My car has been running cool ever since I changed the original thermostat a few years ago (around 165 degrees or so). During the install of my GMR ported head about 1.5 years ago, I decided to replace the thermostat again (just so I didnt have to mess with it for a while), and the car still showed 165 degree temps. Dyno'd it, saw no ill affects, and said frig it. Well, over the past week or so, I noticed engine coolant temps hovering around 153 while cruising, and reduced fuel economy. I started reading up on the possible issue, and everyone always said change your thermostat, but I just couldnt believe the thermostat would take a crap on me in under 2 years and 7k miles. So I decided to look into what else could possibly cause the issue and that led me to the ECT sensor. I purchased a brand new Genuine GM ECT sensor for $17, installed it, and low & behold my engine temps are back to where they should be (around 176 degrees while cruising). My car always ran around 181 when it had the stock head and original thermostat, so I knew I was back in business. This is much easier than messing with the thermostat, so if you have low miles on your thermostats, and you determine it's functioning correctly, check the ECT sensor first before you go and change anything else.
Here's a quick how to.... note, you do not need to drain the coolant on the LSJ, simply remove the ECT sensor with a deep wall 3/4" socket, and replace with the new one. Follow torque specs and you are set. Make sure to do this when the engine is cold.
Here's a pic of my original ECT sensor w/ 62k miles on it, and all gummed up with deposits:
Part # for the LSJ sensor (2.2/2.4 have a different part #):
Installed:
Here's a quick how to.... note, you do not need to drain the coolant on the LSJ, simply remove the ECT sensor with a deep wall 3/4" socket, and replace with the new one. Follow torque specs and you are set. Make sure to do this when the engine is cold.
Here's a pic of my original ECT sensor w/ 62k miles on it, and all gummed up with deposits:
Part # for the LSJ sensor (2.2/2.4 have a different part #):
Installed:
Last edited by Staged07SS; 07-13-2015 at 03:44 PM.
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yellowsupercharged06 (07-13-2015)
#2
Joined: 04-18-14
Posts: 16,465
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From: El Paso, TX
Well i could happen that the t-stat goes bad specially if you replace with aftermarket i had to change mine in my basemodel almost every year because it would go bad
#3
Thread Starter
Joined: 12-30-07
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From: NEPA
That was not the case with my car this time though, and that's why I say to check the ECT sensor first, before just throwing parts at it.
#4
Joined: 04-18-14
Posts: 16,465
Likes: 603
From: El Paso, TX
Yup i was going to add a bad t-stat will usually not show the coolant temp tho so a bad sensor sounds like the best explanation in your case but very helpful info for sure
#6
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Joined: 12-30-07
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From: NEPA
#8
couldve been problematic for you with the amount of timing the gm stage tunes run + the added timing of a false, low ect reading while the car is actually at operating temp. not to mention that youve got fueling practically maxed out
#9
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From: NEPA
#12
Thread Starter
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,331
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From: NEPA
Ok, let's try this again.... Southal Cobalt I apologize for misreading what u were getting at. Thank you for clarifying and shooting me that PM. My car is constantly monitored via wideband, interceptor with alternating parameters, and knock warning lights. The gmrs3 tune although locked to tuning has full parameter logging access, which I know inside and out. My fueling is not maxed regardless of what some think (magical unicorns). Working hard for sure, but I have a nice steady afr throughout my entire rpm range. Yes, a false reading or failing ect sensor can have an affect on timing, I know this, and I appreciate you for adding this to the thead for others who may not understand tuning parameters. My car was never in any danger though. The original point of this thread was to make people aware of other issues that can cause a low reading for engine coolant. We all got off on a tangent, so let's pull back together. Thanks guys!
Last edited by Staged07SS; 07-14-2015 at 08:35 AM.
#13
For experiments sake, I wonder if you cleaned the crud off of the old one and put it back in, if you would see better readings.
They do degrade in performance over time but if you were to just sand down the original one and re-install it might work just fine, as in your case it wasn't a circuit fault.
They do degrade in performance over time but if you were to just sand down the original one and re-install it might work just fine, as in your case it wasn't a circuit fault.
#14
Thread Starter
Joined: 12-30-07
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From: NEPA
For experiments sake, I wonder if you cleaned the crud off of the old one and put it back in, if you would see better readings.
They do degrade in performance over time but if you were to just sand down the original one and re-install it might work just fine, as in your case it wasn't a circuit fault.
They do degrade in performance over time but if you were to just sand down the original one and re-install it might work just fine, as in your case it wasn't a circuit fault.
I think I cleaned it once before I reinstalled it into my GMR head, but it didnt last long before the temps started dropping again.
Temps have been holding steady between 176-180 with the new one. Gas mileage is back to.
#15
To be honest Joe, I thought about that, but for $17, couldn't pass up a brand new genuine gm sensor
I think I cleaned it once before I reinstalled it into my GMR head, but it didnt last long before the temps started dropping again.
Temps have been holding steady between 176-180 with the new one. Gas mileage is back to.
I think I cleaned it once before I reinstalled it into my GMR head, but it didnt last long before the temps started dropping again.
Temps have been holding steady between 176-180 with the new one. Gas mileage is back to.
#18
Today I was driving to work and noticed my cooling fan was running. It's pretty cool out so I thought it was strange. I checked the DIC and the coolant temp read ---. Does the DIC get the temp from this sensor? The reason I ask is I fired up my TORQUE App and it was reading around 186. If the cooling fan is triggered by this sensor and my temp is cooler that the trip point I don't want my fan running all the time.
Thanks
'06 Cobalt 2.4 SS
Thanks
'06 Cobalt 2.4 SS
#20
Thread Starter
Joined: 12-30-07
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From: NEPA
Today I was driving to work and noticed my cooling fan was running. It's pretty cool out so I thought it was strange. I checked the DIC and the coolant temp read ---. Does the DIC get the temp from this sensor? The reason I ask is I fired up my TORQUE App and it was reading around 186. If the cooling fan is triggered by this sensor and my temp is cooler that the trip point I don't want my fan running all the time.
Thanks
'06 Cobalt 2.4 SS
Thanks
'06 Cobalt 2.4 SS
Are you tuned or anything? Did you have the defroster on? Kinda odd the fans are coming on at 186. Should be more like 221 before the fans come on. This doesn't sound like a coolant temp sensor issue.
Possibly a thermostat problem.
#21
For experiments sake, I wonder if you cleaned the crud off of the old one and put it back in, if you would see better readings.
They do degrade in performance over time but if you were to just sand down the original one and re-install it might work just fine, as in your case it wasn't a circuit fault.
They do degrade in performance over time but if you were to just sand down the original one and re-install it might work just fine, as in your case it wasn't a circuit fault.
Inside that is hollow and is simply a .25 cent temperature thermistor.
Good call in replacing it. They do fail often on cars however, most cars either have two separate temp sensors. One for the ECU / PCM to read for adjusting engine parameters and a second one that is strictly for the displayed temperature on the cluster.
Some cars have a single sensor that has four wires which actually houses two separate sensors. One for the ECU/PCM and the other for the gauge.
EDIT: I did look up the schematics for an 07' SS and yes it appears that there is only one ECT sensor that is used by the PCM and the cluster gets the data from the PCM.
The most common scenario in general though is the 4 wire sensor or two separate sensors.
Last edited by firehawk618; 11-16-2015 at 02:28 AM.
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Staged07SS (11-16-2015)
#22
So my question to ya'll is, (sorry for reviving the dead) if my ECT sensor housing is slightly busted, so that you can just barely see the connectors when it's hooked up, do we see that skewing temps?
After replacing my timing set (which is when the ECT sensor housing was damaged), the temps are a little more reactive than they were before. climbing higher faster, but it still drops down to normal.
After replacing my timing set (which is when the ECT sensor housing was damaged), the temps are a little more reactive than they were before. climbing higher faster, but it still drops down to normal.
#24
On the LNF it's in the thermostat housing on the back of the engine. It's the electrical thing sticking out of the bottom part in this picture. Sorry I don't have a picture of the part on the engine for you.
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