Problems/Service/Maintenance Do you have problems with your new 2.0, 2.2, or 2.4L? What kind of service did you have done?

Check your nuts some more

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Old 02-17-2006, 10:47 PM
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Check your nuts some more

I was looking over my car this morning and noticed that one of the wheel nuts on the right front had worked itself completely off the car. I thought this was an odd thing for it to do because I had been keeping an eye out for this sort of thing. As it turns out, the stud had broken off. So I check the other wheels and sure enough, there was a broken stud on the left front as well. Both were gone inside of a week.

I immediately take it to the dealer for the service guy to look at.
First he asks me who put the Motegis on and I tell him I did. Then he asks me what I torqued them to. I tell him 100 foot pounds. The guy looks at me like I'm lying so I pop the trunk and get out my torque wrench and show him what it's set on. THEN he says "It's supposed to be 110 foot pounds" so I get out my Owners Manual and show him he's wrong. I figure he's gonna start telling me I shouldn't have put Non-GM wheels on it but luckily they keep most of their aftermarket wheels on display in the service area.
I tell him how insanely overtorqued the wheel nuts were from the factory and that I think it would be a good idea to replace all of the studs while they had the rotors off. I show him the spline driver tool and I ask him to please, please to not use any air powered tools on my um, nuts. He just kinda stands there looking at his shoes and nodding. Then he says "ok, we'll get right on it".
So I wander around for a while and look at things I can't even make insurance premiums on then I go look at the fish in the tank and then I sit around watching "Unsolved Mysteries" on the teevee in the waiting room (The golf pro did it). For three hours and fifteen minutes.
Finally, they bring my car back out and take the big plastic condom off the seat. I go to the cashier to sign off on the work. Under parts I see 2 wheel studs listed. The dumb sons of bitches replaced the broken studs only. So I mosey back over to the service manager, show him the ticket and asked him why he didn't go ahead and replace all the studs while he had the rotors off. He said "that's all that were broken".

I had to bust the wheel nuts back loose and retorque them because the brakes were pulsing badly. They weren't as hard to get loose as when GM did it but they were tighter than 100 foot pounds. Bastards. I'll be back tomorrow to talk to the general manager about his/her service people.

Bob
Old 02-17-2006, 10:53 PM
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You cant trust the people there most of them are dumbshits!
Old 02-17-2006, 10:54 PM
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Quick and dirty is SOP. They don't really care about your car. The average driver wouldn't know how much the lugs should be torqued, or that warped rotors can be caused by overtorque.
Old 02-18-2006, 11:06 AM
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Sucks to hear about your car , just a little FYI for you.

Do not leave a torque wrench set while being stored. Torque wrenches must be unloaded (returned to O after use) to hold appropriate callibration. I own a Tractor-trailer repair shop, it costs me a fortune to have all of our wrenches recalibrated every six months,more often if left loaded. Also the way you tighten aluminum wheels is more likely to warp rotors then overtightened wheel nuts. If you tighten your wheels in three stages you rotors will stay true longer.

1) snug the tire up using criss-cross pattern.
2) torque nuts up to 70 % torque using same pattern.
3) finish all nuts to maximum torque

When ever there is a broken wheel stud, you must change the stud on either side of the broken one. This has been a rule for as long as I can remember. Twist GM's arm with this fact.

Not trying to be a "know it all" just sharing experience.

S.
Old 02-18-2006, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by tio
Sucks to hear about your car , just a little FYI for you.

Do not leave a torque wrench set while being stored. Torque wrenches must be unloaded (returned to O after use) to hold appropriate callibration. I own a Tractor-trailer repair shop, it costs me a fortune to have all of our wrenches recalibrated every six months,more often if left loaded. Also the way you tighten aluminum wheels is more likely to warp rotors then overtightened wheel nuts. If you tighten your wheels in three stages you rotors will stay true longer.

1) snug the tire up using criss-cross pattern.
2) torque nuts up to 70 % torque using same pattern.
3) finish all nuts to maximum torque

When ever there is a broken wheel stud, you must change the stud on either side of the broken one. This has been a rule for as long as I can remember. Twist GM's arm with this fact.

Not trying to be a "know it all" just sharing experience.

S.
good info!!!!! go get em!

Just got my baby back from the dealer....had a laundry list of stuff that most of it has parts ordered, but 1 thing bothers me, I had the car signal the security light them promptly stalled and I couldnt get the car restarted for like 10 mins, anyone have this problem? Dealer was understanding but they gave me the "couldnt replicate " the problem jazz....thx!
Old 02-18-2006, 10:13 PM
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Thanks for the info on the torque wrench. Mine isn't exactly a name brand. Some time monday I will buy a good one, Craftsman or better if I got the bux for it. I already have a Craftsman but it's in inch pounds.
The general manager was a no show at the dealership, or so they said. He can run...
I did a search on the subject but I dint find anything; did I hear correctly that there is a recall on the SS/SC for this very problem? If there is, hopefully it gets expanded to include us NA guys.

Bob
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