Clicking A/C Re-circulation Actuator, Gear fluid plug removal, & install Trans mounts
#1
Clicking A/C Re-circulation Actuator, Gear fluid plug removal, & install Trans mounts
Clicking A/C Re-circulation Actuator, Gear fluid plug removal, & install Trans mounts for 09 SS Sedan?
Hey everyone. A few months ago when I turn my car on every time after being off, I get a clicking sound for about 10-15 seconds. It occurs over in the passenger side glove box area. After doing some research, it seems the plastic gear for the bleed door re-circulation actuator could be bad. Is it possible to replace this without tearing the entire dash off the car? Or is there another way. Honestly being I don’t use the recirculate function in my car, could I possibly somehow just unplug the power wire going to it to disable it? It just gets old hearing this loud clicking whenever I go to start my car.
Also a month ago I tried to change the gear fluid in my manual trans. The drain plug is so close to the engine cradle that the only thing I could fit in there was an Allen key. But of course being how tight the plug is, it was only bending the key with a breaker bar. It seems I am going to need an Allen key socket but cut down to fit between the Trans and engine cradle? Is this what everyone does to loosen up that drain plug? Also what size Allen key socket do I need as well?
Lastly, originally I had wanted to install just a set of Stage 1 transmission mounts into my car being it’s my daily driver. However I got a great deal on a set of new OTTP Stage 2 trans mounts. I am uncertain if I should install these or not? Or another idea is to work out a deal with someone that has possibly a set of Stage 1 mounts for my Stage 2 ones? Will I be rattling myself crazy if I install these Stage 2 mounts or not?
Hey everyone. A few months ago when I turn my car on every time after being off, I get a clicking sound for about 10-15 seconds. It occurs over in the passenger side glove box area. After doing some research, it seems the plastic gear for the bleed door re-circulation actuator could be bad. Is it possible to replace this without tearing the entire dash off the car? Or is there another way. Honestly being I don’t use the recirculate function in my car, could I possibly somehow just unplug the power wire going to it to disable it? It just gets old hearing this loud clicking whenever I go to start my car.
Also a month ago I tried to change the gear fluid in my manual trans. The drain plug is so close to the engine cradle that the only thing I could fit in there was an Allen key. But of course being how tight the plug is, it was only bending the key with a breaker bar. It seems I am going to need an Allen key socket but cut down to fit between the Trans and engine cradle? Is this what everyone does to loosen up that drain plug? Also what size Allen key socket do I need as well?
Lastly, originally I had wanted to install just a set of Stage 1 transmission mounts into my car being it’s my daily driver. However I got a great deal on a set of new OTTP Stage 2 trans mounts. I am uncertain if I should install these or not? Or another idea is to work out a deal with someone that has possibly a set of Stage 1 mounts for my Stage 2 ones? Will I be rattling myself crazy if I install these Stage 2 mounts or not?
#2
Joined: 04-18-14
Posts: 16,465
Likes: 603
From: El Paso, TX
I used the allen key on the bottom plug(drain plug). on the fill plug I got a Allen socket but don't remember the exact number atm.
I have the stg 2 mounts only time I get rattles is when starting from a stop and that's sometimes, it's all in the driver really I usually get alot more when the ac is on
I have the stg 2 mounts only time I get rattles is when starting from a stop and that's sometimes, it's all in the driver really I usually get alot more when the ac is on
#3
1. yes you can change it out without tearing the dash apart although according to si you should. use a long 1/4 ratchet, magnetic 1/4 socket. and torx bit and break your arm to get it it.
2. personally I got a impact socket key, ripped the bit out, ground it a lil on the end and got a good quality 6 point 8mm closed end wrench.
3. idk. still running stock mounts on my car
2. personally I got a impact socket key, ripped the bit out, ground it a lil on the end and got a good quality 6 point 8mm closed end wrench.
3. idk. still running stock mounts on my car
#4
For the drain plug I also cut a hex key. I used vice grips on the end of the key to get more leverage. Make sure it's the right size or you'll strip it and you'll have a bad time. Ask me how I know...
#5
Most people use an 8mm allen key to remove the plug, but I found that a 5/16 fits nice and snug. I thought the 8mm fit too loosely.
I changed the fluid when I had the cradle dropped for control arm bushing replacement and swaybar upgrade, so I didn't have to grind down any allen keys. If I were to attempt it with the cradle in place, I would cut about an inch long straight section from a 5/16 allen key, and then use it with a 5/16 ratcheting wrench to break the plug loose.
I changed the fluid when I had the cradle dropped for control arm bushing replacement and swaybar upgrade, so I didn't have to grind down any allen keys. If I were to attempt it with the cradle in place, I would cut about an inch long straight section from a 5/16 allen key, and then use it with a 5/16 ratcheting wrench to break the plug loose.
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