Clutch pedal sticky/slow after a hard pull
#1
Clutch pedal sticky/slow after a hard pull
So after a nice pull in any gear, sometimes my clutch pedal will stick to the floor for a second and get stiff and wont come back up right away after a shift. If i drive it slow and dont get on it, I havent seen it do it then. What should I be looking at? any recommendations?
#5
i had a very similar experience with my stock clutch. driving normal it was fine. if i drove it hard, when i stuck the clutch in for 2nd gear it would only come back 1" off the floor, but fully engage the clutch. when i went to grab 3rd the clutch was very stiff, but it would come up very high and grab right at the top. after cycling the clutch a few times it would go back to normal and be like that till i beat on it again. it would also only happen if i took it above 6500rpm.
now im my professional opinion (im a transmission builder/diagnostician) this isnt caused by hydraulics. clutch hydraulics are one of those things that they work or they dont. they dont randomly get air in them unless the fluid has run out, and in that case something is leaking. the fluid will absorb moisture, however if your having clutch problems because of that, you should be having brake problems as they share the same resevior.
i have a theory on whats going on, but ive never been able to prove it. first off, you need to understand that a typical clutch will start to release higher up on the pedal as it wears out, till the point the clutch grabs right at the top when its worn out. the ss/sc uses whats called a self adjusting pressure plate, the idea behind this is as the clutch wears the pressure plate adjusts for the wear so the release height of the pedal is at the same point through the clutches life, till its worn past the point it can adjust and the pedal starts to come up. its a great idea in theory, works well on most vehicles. my theory is that the self adjusting mechanism has a problem, or is being affected by the higher rpm as allowed by the stage kits (it was designed for 6500rpm max, stage kits are 7000).
my only proof for this theory is i put in the gmpp clutch kit and the problem went away. the gmpp clutch kit, same as the ss/tc clutch, does not use a self adjusting pressure plate.
now im my professional opinion (im a transmission builder/diagnostician) this isnt caused by hydraulics. clutch hydraulics are one of those things that they work or they dont. they dont randomly get air in them unless the fluid has run out, and in that case something is leaking. the fluid will absorb moisture, however if your having clutch problems because of that, you should be having brake problems as they share the same resevior.
i have a theory on whats going on, but ive never been able to prove it. first off, you need to understand that a typical clutch will start to release higher up on the pedal as it wears out, till the point the clutch grabs right at the top when its worn out. the ss/sc uses whats called a self adjusting pressure plate, the idea behind this is as the clutch wears the pressure plate adjusts for the wear so the release height of the pedal is at the same point through the clutches life, till its worn past the point it can adjust and the pedal starts to come up. its a great idea in theory, works well on most vehicles. my theory is that the self adjusting mechanism has a problem, or is being affected by the higher rpm as allowed by the stage kits (it was designed for 6500rpm max, stage kits are 7000).
my only proof for this theory is i put in the gmpp clutch kit and the problem went away. the gmpp clutch kit, same as the ss/tc clutch, does not use a self adjusting pressure plate.
#7
I had a problem with my clutch sometimes going rock sold after a WOT pull. I bought it used and ever since I bought sometimes there would be nothing when I would push in the clutch until about the last quarter of it. But if I pumped the hell out of it, it would come back and work right at the top again. Well I just swapped my clutch to a GMPP one a few weeks ago. When I pulled the trans the throwout bearing was in pieces. But since I've swapped the clutch I've had zero issues with it going hard after a pull or my clutch pedal having "play" in it.
#11
I had exactly that happened to me, clutch would get stuck almost down to the floor after shifting at high rpm (around 6k) and it takes a couple of pumps/ shifts to get it back up
the dealer topped up my clutch fluid and it was good as before
Still on original clutch
the dealer topped up my clutch fluid and it was good as before
Still on original clutch
#12
Ill have to try that before i go buying a new clutch
#14
Tried pretty much everything in this thread
Im running:
ACT clutch
LNF TOB
New Master
Bled more times than I can count
Fluid is fine level wise
I was told by ACT that I may have broken the diaphragm in the pressure plate but not quite sure of that
Im thinking the next thing I should replace is the clutch line and Ill disconnect the distribution block, check all the gaskets and grommets and reassemble, bleed and hope for the best.
Im running:
ACT clutch
LNF TOB
New Master
Bled more times than I can count
Fluid is fine level wise
I was told by ACT that I may have broken the diaphragm in the pressure plate but not quite sure of that
Im thinking the next thing I should replace is the clutch line and Ill disconnect the distribution block, check all the gaskets and grommets and reassemble, bleed and hope for the best.
#17
Also: Malfunction still presists, however the pedal does not go stiff anymore, but the other symptoms still exist.
#18
Just noticed this on ZZP's web site:
GM ACDelco - Upgraded Throwout Bearing for LSJ #GM-24242805
"Depending on preload and engine rpm this clutch often goes over center. The fingers pass center and it overextends the throw out bearing. The travel is supposed to be checked upon clutch installation and in some cases a spacer is added to adjust the travel."
This sounds like it might explain what's going on...
Hey ZOOMER! Can you provide more info please?
GM ACDelco - Upgraded Throwout Bearing for LSJ #GM-24242805
"Depending on preload and engine rpm this clutch often goes over center. The fingers pass center and it overextends the throw out bearing. The travel is supposed to be checked upon clutch installation and in some cases a spacer is added to adjust the travel."
This sounds like it might explain what's going on...
Hey ZOOMER! Can you provide more info please?
#20
Back from the Grave, not really a bump
Just wanted to say i been having this problem off and on for a few months, only WOT 1st-2nd. not every time tho
but this week it happened 2nd-3rd WOT
gonna get the fluids changed and see what happens. i do have small oil like leak, could be something else tho
Just wanted to say i been having this problem off and on for a few months, only WOT 1st-2nd. not every time tho
but this week it happened 2nd-3rd WOT
gonna get the fluids changed and see what happens. i do have small oil like leak, could be something else tho
#21
most likely leaking clutch line and burning fluid. get a braided stainless line from TH Motorsports, my problem ended up being a broken clutch disc (I seperated the springs from the disc and they were floating around wedging between the plate and the disc so I couldnt get good connection
#22
most likely leaking clutch line and burning fluid. get a braided stainless line from TH Motorsports, my problem ended up being a broken clutch disc (I seperated the springs from the disc and they were floating around wedging between the plate and the disc so I couldnt get good connection
the only time i have to get to a shop is on Sat. that limits when i can get stuff done if i dont do it myself.
#25
just started noticing a similar issue to u guys the other day on a datalog. everytime I do hard pulls my pedal gets soft and engages a few inches off the floor. its very easy to push pedal till those few inches. then after when I drive normal for a minute or 2 the clutch returns to its normal feel.