I wanted to post this for anyone searching for this in the future since I spent a lot of time searching and reading.

I have an 06 2.4 SS with 180k miles. A few weeks back on a trip the clutch started slipping very slightly in high gear. If I was decelerating and hit the gas the RPMs would jump 150-200 then drop back. Slipped a little on a shift here and there too. When I got home I ordered an Exedy OEM clutch kit and new slave cylinder/throwout bearing. Drove the car another week and a half and the slipping didn't get any worse, it actually didn't slip at all on my daily commute (but I could still make it). Wasn't sure how long the clutch would last so figured I'd play it safe and replace it sooner than later.

I recruited the help of my brother and we pulled it apart this past Tuesday night. Followed this how to. Only a couple differences for the 2.4 vs the 2.0. On the 2.4 trans, the vehicle speed sensor bolts in with a reverse torx bolt, but you can get on it with an 8mm (or 5/16") socket. Also, the slave cylinder/throwout bearing has normal torx bolts, not the inverted ones. I think those were the only differences but maybe there was another. No lift, car on jackstands. Used a piece of scrap wood screwed to two more pieces set on the body pinch lines with a ratchet strap around it to support the engine from the top. It took about 3.5 hours to pull it apart.

Took the flywheel to my machinist the next day and put it back together. Took about the same amount of time, maybe less, and all went smooth until we went to bleed the clutch. Nothing we did would get fluid down to the bleeder. The master cylinder piston was working but we couldn't get fluid at the bleeder. We messed with it for a couple hours. Took the line right off the master cylinder and still couldn't get fluid coming out of the MC when pumping the clutch so we figured the MC was bad. The next day I ordered a new MC from NAPA (which was going to take a day to get here) and also bought a Mityvac vacuum pump to try bleeding it that way. Tried using the vacuum pump on the bleeder and also on the reservoir with a 1.5" bathtub stopper like GM says. Nothing would work.

Pulled the master cylinder out using this how to which was helpful for getting the clip off the clutch rod. Couldn't blow through the MC, and saw there is a check valve in there(probably one way valve). Put 125# of air on it and it wouldn't open up.

The next day I got the new clutch master cylinder from NAPA, put it on and had fluid at the bleeder 15 seconds after opening it. Bled it manually and put it back together and all is well now.

So, if you're having problems bleeding the clutch, put a new master cylinder on it. We fought with it for hours trying to bleed it then after replacing the MC we had it bled in 2 minutes. The valve in it sticks and doesn't allow new fluid down from the reservoir to come down into the MC. I did lots of searching and found that this issue has come up before but I bet its widespread.

If there are any questions please feel free to ask or PM me.

 

I did the same thing only my bleeder valve is letting air back in and I can only get fluid out with a vac. If i try to bleed it by pushing the clutch and working the valve (2 ppl) I get negative progress. HELP PLEASE!!!!
The Widow: 2009 Cobalt SS/TC, K&N CAI, Hahn Race Craft upper and lower, ZZP intercooler, ZZP down pipe, 3" straight pipe, ZZP Opel Injectors, OTTP motor/trans mounts, OTTP short throw, Trifecta tune @ 23psi, Enkei wheels

 

Sounds like the clutch master cylinder is bad just like mine was. Couldn't get it to bleed. When I replaced the cylinder it bled right away. Good news is the part is cheap and it's not a hard job, just involves laying on your back. There's a how to on this forum for it.

 

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wtf this was supposed to post on my thread.

 

Lol sure