Cobalt Stalling, torque converter?
#1
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Cobalt Stalling, torque converter?
My 07' 2LT Coupe has been stalling when the car is cold (only from Oct. to Mar.) for the past 2 winters. During the summer, it is perfectly fine (stalling wise). It has been shifting funny in my opinion for 2 years, year round. On a straight away at a constant speed, it feels like its pulling me forward in between shifts. The car has never been above 19 mpg since I got it, and it has now read 15.2 mpg for the past 3 months.
I have had this car at the dealer more than 7 times for a week each time, but they claim the car has not acted up for them at all and never throws any codes. Every single time I get into the car, the first few times I come to a stop, the car shudders and stalls out. Finally, after two years, I asked my neighbor who is a mechanic to come over and back my car out of my driveway (uphill) to show him what its doing. The car acted up like crazy (shuddering and stalling in gear) and he said he is 100% sure it is a transmission issue, most likely my torque converter. He was able to replicate the problem over 10 times in a row so I'm hoping he knows what he's talking about.
Anyone here have any input? Does it sound like the torque converter is the issue? If so, can a torque converter be changed without removing the entire engine? I'm more of an electrical guy than an engine guy so any help/input is greatly appreciated.
I have had this car at the dealer more than 7 times for a week each time, but they claim the car has not acted up for them at all and never throws any codes. Every single time I get into the car, the first few times I come to a stop, the car shudders and stalls out. Finally, after two years, I asked my neighbor who is a mechanic to come over and back my car out of my driveway (uphill) to show him what its doing. The car acted up like crazy (shuddering and stalling in gear) and he said he is 100% sure it is a transmission issue, most likely my torque converter. He was able to replicate the problem over 10 times in a row so I'm hoping he knows what he's talking about.
Anyone here have any input? Does it sound like the torque converter is the issue? If so, can a torque converter be changed without removing the entire engine? I'm more of an electrical guy than an engine guy so any help/input is greatly appreciated.
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i have a 2006 SS 2.L automatic with a stage 2 turbo from ZZ performance. Since november my car will wanna die out every morning or after its been sitting for at least 8 hours. when i come to my first 3 or 4 stops the car will act like it will want to die and sometimes does. more often it will just drop idle and pop back up. after a while the car is fine and doesnt do anything anymore. ive had it to chevy 2 times and another local mechaninc. nobody can find anything wrong with it. it never does anyting wrong when someone is looking at it. i think it is the torque converter personally. but yeah man i hear ya
#4
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i have a 2006 SS 2.L automatic with a stage 2 turbo from ZZ performance. Since november my car will wanna die out every morning or after its been sitting for at least 8 hours. when i come to my first 3 or 4 stops the car will act like it will want to die and sometimes does. more often it will just drop idle and pop back up. after a while the car is fine and doesnt do anything anymore. ive had it to chevy 2 times and another local mechaninc. nobody can find anything wrong with it. it never does anyting wrong when someone is looking at it. i think it is the torque converter personally. but yeah man i hear ya
#5
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Your coolant temp sensor could be off by 5 or 10 degrees and the car is going into open loop to early
This is a resistive based reading and a bad connection could do it as well when its cold.
Pull the connector off and on a few times and see if that helps,
Also when it happenes monitor the coolant temp and see if you can notice any type of trend in temp when it happenes.
Also Ive had similar issues with bad gas,try some fuel conditioner that disperses water or gas line antifreeze in the tank.
This is a resistive based reading and a bad connection could do it as well when its cold.
Pull the connector off and on a few times and see if that helps,
Also when it happenes monitor the coolant temp and see if you can notice any type of trend in temp when it happenes.
Also Ive had similar issues with bad gas,try some fuel conditioner that disperses water or gas line antifreeze in the tank.
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