its oem temp and fitment but definitely not oem manufacturer

 

I've just always got what the local CarQuest or whatever flavor has and made sure it fit right with the right cracking temperature and never had a problem. Definitely didn't pay $40 for one. The ACDELCO 180F T-stat is on RockAuto for $15. 2006 CHEVROLET COBALT 2.0L L4 Supercharged Thermostat | RockAuto

 

I just put a carquest one in my daily.... We'll see how that goes.

 

Thanks JB I'm on rock auto right now picking up the ACDelco one. Question do I need one of the $3.39 ACDelco seals under thermostat housing water outlet seal ? Or I'm I good just with the TSAT itself ?

 

JB they also have an acedelco one on that same page for $29.79 it says that it comes with bleeder jiggle valves ?

 

Below is a pic of the $30 one with bleeder jiggle valves. Would really like to know if I should go with this one or not

 

I got one without the bleeder jiggle valve because I didn't know about it until I was comparing the T-stats before I installed the new one. Now I can't remember if this was on my truck or my car but I drilled a tiny hole in the new T-stat in the same location. All it is is a hole with a little ball that rolls around and I think it acts like a check valve. I drilled a small enough hole I figured it couldn't flow enough fluid to prevent it from warming up anyway and haven't noticed any issues. I would say though if you aren't comfortable with the hole you may want to go with bleeder valve though I can't speak for the experience without it. I just didn't want to fight any trapped air. It may work fine, idk.

 

Thanks JB I'm going to go with the ACDelco TSTAT with the bleeder valves to help with any trapped air.

 

Would you recommend replacing the coolant temperature sensor at the same time I replace my thermostat ?

 

I have an 07 cobalt that was running between 190-210F and the other day it shot up to 240 when I got on the freeway, so I changed the thermostat and it’s still doing that.... what else could it be??

 

Bad coolant maybe? You can buy a little tester for $5-10. How old is your rad as well?

 

Sure, why not.

T-Stats usually fail open, not closed. It's possible that there is an air bubble in the system, but also unlikely (esp if it's not supercharged). It is likely you have a restriction somewhere, and if so, most likely radiator. Your radiator may be clogged either inside or outside. I'd check that out.

 

 

Just FYI-temp sensor is different from the thermostat

 

 

 

Anita Weier, do you have a check engine light on?

 

 

Dex-Cool lasts a really long time. I think the owner's manual recommends changing after 100k miles. It pretty much only "goes bad" if it is exposed to air or is mixed with standard green coolant. What color is your coolant (green vs. orange vs. brown)?

 

 

That's good. My VW had a clogged radiator. The fins were filled with crud and I think the inside was likely cruddy as well. It ran warm till I replaced it. The water pump also leaked, which likely introduced air into the coolant, which is bad news for OAT/HOAT coolant like Dexcool.

 

I thought they didn't make dex cool anymore? I was just at Napa and they don't carry it. Pretty sure Canadian tire doesn't either. I just mixed in Prestone universal coolant and it's ran fine for over 20k...although, it's mostly prestone now. Most of the original fluid was drained.

 

Prestone sells dex-cool. it comes in a grey bottle.

 

They def still sell dexcool. Try walmart if they have those up there.

If you want to get bored about different coolants, try this:
It's geared for VW G-series, but Dexcool is similar in concept.

 

What do you know, your right lol. I have the prestone all makes all models formula and it looks like they have prestone dexcool approved too. I can't see there being much of a difference but I'll read up on it.