ya same here i havent even put my springs on yet to lower but when i get to work in morning i go over speed bumps then i hear it in right passenger side, makes a werid long noise, thought maybe i need new strut but guess im not alone in this...i hope it isnt anything serious

 

Torque box?? Where did they say that is located, next to the flux capacitor, by the muffler bearings?

 

I just put a set of rims and tires on my Cobalt Today and my mechanic and I checked where the sound was comming from. The sound is comming from the mid-shaft that goes into the rack!. I've had everything changed as of yesterday. New struts, strut mounts, sway bar bushings, complete lower control arm and today I put in new rotors and pads. When I was sitting in the car today, with the engine running, I bumped the steering wheel and that knock was clear as a bell!
A good test to see if its the mid-shaft is
1. Turn the car on with the engine running
2. Sharply move the steering wheel to the right and left
3. Move the steering wheel just enough to get the wheel to turn a little then quickly go back and forth about an inch.
This will replicate the knocking or "clunking" that you have when you drive at slow speeds!
I spoke to my dealer (I bought the car used) and he said to bring it in and we'll get the car checked out and order the parts!

 

Ok i printed off all of these msgs on this forum because i am having the same problem, i took it in today not only b/c of the noise but my check engine light came on so i thought id have them check it again....the first time they said it was due to the car having low profile componants, but i printed off all the stuff and im only 17 so my dad called them and told them that we wouldnt take that as another excuse and wanted it fixed....if they do it again ive already talked to gm and they said to call them and they would go to the dealer and get the low down.....wish me luck that it doesnt end up coming to that!!!!!

 

Pulled this directly off GM dealer World

Subject: Steering and Front Suspension Noise Concerns - Clunk, Rattle, Knocking, Pop, Shudder, Vibration (Diagnosis and Perform Necessary Repair) #04-03-08-006B - (08/27/2007)



Models: 2005-2008 Chevrolet Cobalt

2006-2008 Chevrolet HHR

2005-2006 Pontiac Pursuit (Canada Only)

2007-2008 Pontiac G5

2003-2007 Saturn ION




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This bulletin is being updated to add models, model years and additional conditions. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-03-08-006A (Section 03 - Suspension).


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This bulletin provides information on six different steering/front suspension noise conditions.

Condition #1
Some customers may comment on a rattle or knocking noise that is heard in the front of the vehicle while driving at low speeds (5-15 mph [8-24 km/h]). This condition may be more noticeable while making a slow turn or on a loose/rough surface.

This condition can be duplicated by the technician using the following procedure:

On a rough or loose surface (i.e., gravel parking lot), make a sweeping turn (either direction) at 5-15 mph (8-24 km/h) to load the steering column, I-shaft and steering rack/gear mechanisms. (The testing on a rough or loose surface will allow the wheels to oscillate slightly and will make the rattle/knocking noise more evident and repeatable.)
Release the steering wheel while making the turn to take load off of steering components. This should initiate the rattle/shudder noise which is generated by backlash in the steering assembly as it is in a no-load float condition.



Remove the 60 amp EPS fuse (1) in the underhood fuse block.
Test the vehicle as in Step 1. Since the EPS motor is no longer powered, only the I-shaft and steering gear/rack will be loaded as you make the turn. If you hear the rattle/knocking noise during the turn, then the noise is being generated by the backlash within the steering column (assist motor gear mechanism).
Replace the 60 amp EPS fuse and repeat Steps 1 and 2 to verify that the rattle/knocking noise disappears when turning (loading steering mechanism) and can only be heard when releasing the steering wheel.
Correction #1
If the steering column is identified as the source of the rattle/knocking noise in the above test, replace the steering column.

Important: The noise in the steering column is generated from the metal to plastic gear backlash of the assist motor mechanism and will have a different sound than that from the steering gear. If the customer comments that they still hear a noise, it may be a different sound from either the I-shaft or the steering rack.

If the steering column is not identified as the source of the rattle/knocking in the above test, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.

Parts Information #1
Part Number
Description

15914408
Kit, Steering Column (Cobalt/ G5/ Pursuit)

15806195
Kit, Steering Column (HHR)

15832557
Kit, Steering Column (2003-2004 ION)

10392742
Kit, Steering Column (2005-2007 ION)


Warranty Information #1
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

E7680
Column Assembly, Steering -- Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time


Condition #2
Some customers may comment on a whine/hum noise from the steering column while making right hand turns at 5-15 mph (8-24 km/h). A slight whine/hum noise is considered to be normal for EPS so it will be helpful to compare to another like vehicle. If the vehicle exhibits excessive feedback/noise when compared to another vehicle, follow the correction procedure below.

Correction #2
Important: DO NOT replace the steering column.





Pull the 60 amp steering fuse (1) in the underhood fuse block. If this eliminates the whine/hum concern, contact the Technical Assistance Center for further information in order to repair the vehicle. If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.

Condition #3
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from the front of the vehicle during a turning maneuver. This condition can also be felt through the steering wheel when the vehicle is stationary and the wheel is rotated from steering stop to steering stop. Typically, the clunk noise will be heard once for every 90° of steering wheel rotation in either direction. This clunk noise may also be noticed during low speed acceleration or deceleration, typically in light turns of the steering wheel.

The following are characteristics of this noise:

• This noise is very random.

• This noise is independent of the steering wheel angle and independent of the bumpiness of the road.

• This noise is a low frequency dull one and can be felt in your feet.

• This noise can normally be heard from the driver seat.

• This noise can be felt upon touching the steering gear from outside of the vehicle.

Note that you might also notice a slight scrub-type noise when turning the wheel back and forth. This type of noise is considered normal and repairs will not eliminate it.

Cause #3
This condition may be caused by inadequate lubrication of the steering intermediate shaft.

Correction #3
Important: DO NOT replace the steering gear or steering column assembly.

Replace the intermediate shaft.

Important: If the vehicle has already had a steering intermediate shaft replaced for a similar noise concern that the dealer duplicated, determine from the customer if the noise went away for a period of time and came back, or if the service shaft made no change. If the noise was gone for a period of time and came back, have the dealer replace the shaft again to verify we do not have a defective service shaft.

If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.

Parts Information #3
Part Number
Description

15800140
Shaft, Intermediate Steering (Cobalt/G5/Pursuit)

15799676
Shaft, Intermediate Steering (ION)

22730246
Shaft, Intermediate Steering (HHR)


Warranty Information #3
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

E7700
Shaft, Steering Intermediate -- Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time


Condition #4
Some customers may comment on a rattle/clunk type noise coming from the steering column when driving over bumps.

Correction #4
The following steps have been found to be very effective in removing this condition.





Check for the possibility of the PCM and the TCM rattling/clunking together. If there is contact between these two modules, insulate the modules from each other using a small piece of foam.



Check that the retaining clip on the engine coolant surge tank is fully seated. If not, push down to seat.
Rattles/clunks in this area of the engine compartment may be heard as coming from the steering column while driving.

If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose the vehicle according to the diagnostics in SI.

Warranty Information #4
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

E9458*
Repair to Correct Rattle/Clunk Noise in Front of Vehicle
0.2 hr

* This is a unique labor operation number for bulletin use only. It will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.


Condition #5 (FE1 Suspension Only)
Some customers may comment on a clunk, thump or rattle noise coming from the front suspension while driving over rough road conditions or when braking.

Cause #5




This condition may be caused by the lower control arm rubber bushing (rear) coming out of its steel sleeve (1). This will cause the lower control arm to make hard contact (2) with the body structure. This condition may be more prevalent in regions that use road salt during the winter months.

Correction #5
If the rubber bushing has moved out of the steel sleeve, replace the lower control arm bushing. Do not replace the bushing if it is still centered in the steel sleeve.

If this does not eliminate the noise, continue to diagnose using chassis ears to identify the source of the noise.

Parts Information #5
Part Number
Description

15240087
Bushing, Front Lower Control Arm (Cobalt/G5/HHR/Pursuit)

22688205
Bushing, Front Lower Control Arm (ION)


Warranty Information #5
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

E3550
Bushings ad/or Shaft, Front Control Arm Lower (Right) -- Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time

E3551
Bushings ad/or Shaft, Front Control Arm Lower (Left) -- Replace

E3557
Bushings ad/or Shaft, Front Control Arm Lower (Both) -- Replace


Condition #6 (Saturn ION Only)
Some customers may comment on a squeak, rattle, pop, or clunk noise coming from the front of the vehicle during suspension movement.

Cause #6
This condition may be caused by the interface between the front stabilizer shaft, the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings) and the front stabilizer shaft mounting clamp.

Correction #6
Replace the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings), if necessary, using the following procedure.

Verify the customer comment. Use Chassis Ear (SA9217NE or J39570) or a similar tool to determine the source of the noise. Refer to Noise Diagnosis - Front Suspension in SI.
If the noise is coming from either the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings) or the clamps:

Important: Check the Service Parts Identification label in the rear compartment (trunk) to determine the vehicle's suspension system type, then obtain the correct insulators (bushings) corresponding to that suspension system type.


• On vehicles built after VIN breakpoint 4Z125195, replace both front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings). Refer to the Stabilizer Shaft Insulator Replacement procedure in SI.

• On vehicles built up to and including VIN 4Z125195, replace the front stabilizer shaft insulators (bushings) and clamps. Refer to the Stabilizer Shaft Insulator Replacement procedure in SI.

Verify the repair by repeating Step 1.
Parts Information #6
Part Number
Description
Qty

15820162
Insulator, Front Stabilizer Shaft (2007 FE1 Suspension)
2

15820163
Insulator, Front Stabilizer Shaft (2007 FE2 Suspension)
2

15820164
Insulator, Front Stabilizer Shaft (2003-2007 FE3 Suspension)
2

22722387
Clamp, Front Stabilizer Shaft
2


Warranty Information #6
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

E2180
Insulator and/or Bracket, Front Stabilizer Shaft -- Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time




GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION


Š Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.

 

could be sway bar bushing going bad, when you go over bumps does it happen on the wheel that is not in the up motion? but sounds to me like you installed the strut bearing wrong and its not seated right, and thus makes a clunking noise. if it was that it would prolly do that to during hard turns.

 

Thank you, montecarloman! That's some gooooooood stuff there to print out and bring to the dealer. Hope this ammunition will help some of us!

 

Its wasnt ment as ammunition. It was ment to educate but I guess being educated is the best ammunition sombody can get.

 

just got mine out of the shop today and the dealer replaced the steering column , for the same reason

 

it is the lower control arm bushings, mine was doing the same thing, had them replaced at dealer for $170 it is like a hole new car.

 

I finnally found my clunking noise from the right front over bumps and turning wheel a t a stop. As I was rocking the car I could hear it loud and clear. Popped the hood and shined the light behind the engine so I could clearly see the PASSANGER sway bar hold down clamp to subframe moving up and down as I rock the car. I took a long pry bar and pryed up on the clamp as my father rocked the car and MAGICALY the noise was gone. The second I removed the pry bar it came right back. I guess I'm going to order a new clamp and bushing.

 

the noise i heard from my car started back in september very quite on the passenger side when i steered left at low speeds since then i added an exhaust and intake its been 6 months since i did the add ons but yesterday i started my car and my motor made a weird sound as it started and the sound i heard while turning is now at idle and driving and every speed i still think its the passenger drive shaft or something like that but should i take my mods off the car before taking it to the dealership my warranty is still good it has 20k on the car any suggestions

 

I'm pretty sure I've had both problems. The one with the steering wheel happened fairly quickly after I bought my car and they replaced the shaft. As soon as they had done that my check engine soon light would not turn off so I took it back. They had left a wire on the shaft and the shaft had eaten through the wire...so they fixed that. Now I have the suspension problem and am getting ready to drive cross country and dont really know what to do. If there is no fix for it fine, but if I'm going to break down on my way to WA then I need to figure something out! I will never buy the first model of any car again. Stupid '05's

Unless they can prove the mods broke everything they dont void your warranty. Just tell them you had it before the mods. I had exhaust and a cold air intake on my car and neither voided the warranty

 

I just brought it to my dealer today for the same noises many have complained about in here. I got a call to pick up my car. Service Manager said it was a lower control arm bushing on drivers side.

28000 miles and completly stock. Fun to drive but very querky.

Thanks to all that have posted and an applause to montecarloman for his help in letting my dealer know what exactly my problem was.

 

Well I guess atleast for now it has stopped. Looks like my drivers side lower control arm bushing was the culprit. good luck to everyone else with there problems

 

took the car today to the dealership for the 7th time, and now they are blaming the rotors??? why the rotors IDK but,, they say thats the problem,, last time, they replaced the steering wheel. or the steering shaft... IDK... something like that

 

I have the same noise in the RF of my 05 SS, most likely bad control arm bushings or struts. The cavaliers are known for those bushings to start to serperate. Im not sure on cost but it is an easy do it your self fix.

 

I had this problem with the clunking noises last year and they fixed it under warrranty, they replaceed the steering column. It did the trick and was fine for a year. Now its back and I'm having it replaced again, unfortunately its no longer under warranty.

 

that happen to me 2 but I did not had to wait a year, onle about... a month and a half... monday will be the 9th time I take mine to the dealer for service,, I have open 2 cases at GM consumer whatever.. and nothing,, they thing is, like the car is at my moms name she has to do all the talking and she does not speak English well so she call for Spanish and they transfer the call to Argentina,, tell me what can a guy in Argentina do for me in PR,, thats absolutely rediculuos,, also last monday the last time we took it for service, she bump into the owner of the dealer and explain everything , he later oriented her to what to do and everything,, and that orientation was completely oposite to what the service manager was saying,, and my mom got all PO and started ranting on the waiting room infront of everybody,, letting them know what a POS the service is, and calling everyone an lier and then she started calling her lawyers and well now next monday we go to the dealership again but we aint going alone,, we are going with about 2 or 3 lawyers too KICK SOME ASS.. so lets see what happens,,

also we have send certificated cards to GM at the USA, at the General Manager of the district and every dealer my car has been service,, about 4 to 5 letters in total, and still no resolution to my problem,,

also the guy that recomended my parents to buy the balt for me, (he use to be the district General Manager, now he is Texas district General Manager) (also a loong time friend of my dads) since the 3rd time this happens he is ignoring every email we send him asking for help and orientation,,


this suck,,

 

That does suck Belto, looks like GM is just as much a pain in the ass to deal with in Puerto Rico as it is in USA. Yeah it sounds like you will have to get legal with them to make any progress. This is the kind of crap that turns people off about GM, more than anything else I think.

 

AMEN thats what I was about to say,, IDK,, I was looking on gettin the HHR, but if it may have the same problems as the balt I dont think so...

also the thing is, if you dont drive a $4Ok or over car, they just dont care,, I hate this ****,, some time I had to explaine things to the "master mechanic" that any begenir mech should know,, IDK,, im tire of this BS

 

GM better wise up because they can no longer afford to ignore the problems they have had with quality and with their dealer sales and service. With the way things are in the business they are going to have to change the way they deal with customers. 15-20k is a lot of money to pay for something that doesn't work!

 

I agree with you 100% ,, my next car is deff not going to be a GM manufactured one.. and I dont like Ford, nor Chrysler, so if its not a Dodge (I Dont thing so) or jeep , ill be going for an import,,

 

I have the clunk in the passenger side front... sounds like a strut mount. Had them replace the struts at 24,000 miles with nothing but an intake. They replaced the struts and now that's when i hear it... anytime I hit even a groove in the road it sounds like the passenger wheel is ready to take the front end off the car.

 

I have a 2005 SS/SC and I've been complaining about clunking from the front end since the day I drove it off the lot. I've had most parts replaced up front to no avail. Last week the dealer finally found an issue missed the last 50 or so trips in for service. The engine cradle was not properly torqued on one of the 4 corners. What I've been hearing for the last two years was my engine and transmission smashing the frame! My car was made in May of 05 so f anyone out there is frustrated with continuing issues, have your shop look at the cradle.
Good luck!