Got front end repaired after fender bender and now car sucks?
#1
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Got front end repaired after fender bender and now car sucks?
2007 Cobalt LT w/ Sports Package
I had a minor fender bender, the collision shop repaired the bumper, headlamp, impact brace, A/M Condenser, and A/C Condenser, along with a few other minor things.
Now the car runs like crap. It seems like it lags almost. When I go WOT, from 2-4k it just lags (kinda like a turbo lag is the only way i can explain it) and then at about 4.5k it Kicks in and is ok.
Also when I'm stopped or moving, I throw it into Neutral and rev, it wont go past about 4-4.5k, pretty much the same spot where it kinda "kicks in" when im WOT driving.
This thing used to rev to almost 5-6k and really make some noise, now it sounds like a cat is purring next to me...used to sound like a tiger just growled...seriously.
Also, ever since the accident, the engine kinda smells like its burning, and when i turn on the AC or the Heat and turn up the fans, it fills the cabin with the bad smell. I used the DIC and at maximum its 215 after running mostly WOT for a minute, but it doesnt go below 195. I don't know what is supposed to be, I only had the car 1 day before I got into the accident...apparently it doesnt stop on a dime like my equinox did...first mod is all new brakes and rotors and pads definetly.
What should I do? Should I go back to the collision shop and have them look at it again? Should I go to the dealer (who should be more knowledgable about the car) and have them take a look at it, and then go from there?
I'm pretty sure this isn't normal.
I had a minor fender bender, the collision shop repaired the bumper, headlamp, impact brace, A/M Condenser, and A/C Condenser, along with a few other minor things.
Now the car runs like crap. It seems like it lags almost. When I go WOT, from 2-4k it just lags (kinda like a turbo lag is the only way i can explain it) and then at about 4.5k it Kicks in and is ok.
Also when I'm stopped or moving, I throw it into Neutral and rev, it wont go past about 4-4.5k, pretty much the same spot where it kinda "kicks in" when im WOT driving.
This thing used to rev to almost 5-6k and really make some noise, now it sounds like a cat is purring next to me...used to sound like a tiger just growled...seriously.
Also, ever since the accident, the engine kinda smells like its burning, and when i turn on the AC or the Heat and turn up the fans, it fills the cabin with the bad smell. I used the DIC and at maximum its 215 after running mostly WOT for a minute, but it doesnt go below 195. I don't know what is supposed to be, I only had the car 1 day before I got into the accident...apparently it doesnt stop on a dime like my equinox did...first mod is all new brakes and rotors and pads definetly.
What should I do? Should I go back to the collision shop and have them look at it again? Should I go to the dealer (who should be more knowledgable about the car) and have them take a look at it, and then go from there?
I'm pretty sure this isn't normal.
#2
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I would say, call your insurance company and tell them about the problem. They have to fix it to original condition. They will most likely refer you back to the repair shop.
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ok but how would i explain it is not as fast as it used to be?
just say, well its not running right? they're gonna ask well how do you know? Well i slammed the accelerater and it lagged, then i revv'd in neutral..
lol
edit: spelling error ^^
just say, well its not running right? they're gonna ask well how do you know? Well i slammed the accelerater and it lagged, then i revv'd in neutral..
lol
edit: spelling error ^^
#4
I'm old school
The rev limiter in neutral is supposed to be there, and it is working correctly. If you were able to rev it in neutral past 4000 before, that was a problem.
You had it for a day, then wrecked it. I'm not trying to sound mean, but I think you might just paranoid about post-repair concerns. The thermostat numbers you post are normal. The smell is probably from new parts burning in. Give it a week.
What is an A/M Condenser?
You had it for a day, then wrecked it. I'm not trying to sound mean, but I think you might just paranoid about post-repair concerns. The thermostat numbers you post are normal. The smell is probably from new parts burning in. Give it a week.
What is an A/M Condenser?
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Was the bad smell from the AC a pre-existing issue?
Because my AC stinks when I first turn it on, I think it has something to do with the type of refrigerant used. Not any defect in the car.
Because my AC stinks when I first turn it on, I think it has something to do with the type of refrigerant used. Not any defect in the car.
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I was definetly able to rev to about 5-6k before the work was done, and I believe before the accident? But not positive, the car's been in the shop for a week ;(
I think I may take it to the dealer and get them to do a once over and see if they spot anything, and also see what they say about the smell. It could be the new parts burning in, I did buy it brand new with less then 10 miles on the odometer.
How do people rev these things? Being locked at 3k or whatever it was, sucks, it doesnt even make any noise...
Man I miss my Equinox ;( Had that thing 2 years, no problems, even had a custom one of a kind tune with all custom mod parts and it ran like a beauty. I thought I was doing myself a favor switching to the cobalt...
edit: If it is the AC making the smell, how do I get rid of it? I tried running the car in idle for a half hour, I tried running it hard, nothing helped. I don't know what an A/M Condenser is? It was on the bill that my insurance company approved and paid for...I didn't think the AC had been affected at all but they claimed it had, Total came to $2,800, deductible is $250. The hood was offset and could have probably just been bent back into place but the collision place would not let the vehicle go unless they replaced it because the insurance company already inspected the vehicle and agreed a new hood was needed...bastards, tryin to raise my rates. Seriously this was like $600 in parts w/o the hood, but the paint and labor jacked the price way up...
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AM condenser is "after market" meaning it is not a GM part, it is a replacement from a outside company. Pretty standard in the collision repair industry and should be no problem. Is the odor just when you first turn on the AC and it goes away? Does it smell like a wet gym sock? There is a bulletin about this problem and it can be fixed. Take it back to the dealer. If it stinks all the time, you need to take it back to the body shop.
Dennis
Dennis
#9
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Your tranny could of shifted in the accident or the impact caused some unseen damage.
Something got knocked out of alignment etc.
You never know because it sond like you nailed the other car fairly hard to do that kind of damage.
Something got knocked out of alignment etc.
You never know because it sond like you nailed the other car fairly hard to do that kind of damage.
#10
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...if you drive an automagic you shouldn't be able to rev past 4k...
my AC smells like old milk when i first use it
and if its an automagic the delay in power may be the tranny downshifting...
my AC smells like old milk when i first use it
and if its an automagic the delay in power may be the tranny downshifting...
#11
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It smells like something is burning, weather I use the AC or not. When I open the hood, and poke my head in, the smell is 10 times worse then being inside the cabin.
Could this just be the new parts burning in?
Yes it's an automatic, and yes I was able to rev past 4k no problem while in neutral, moving or stopped. Maybe something that was broken during the accident caused me to be able to rev high? and when they fixed everything they fixed the issue too?
How can I remove the rev limiter?
#12
I'm old school
With regard to the rev limiter...
You don't want to remove it. It's there on purpose. There is absolutely no reason to rev an automatic trans equipped engine in neutral. And I assure you, you did have it before the accident.
You don't want to remove it. It's there on purpose. There is absolutely no reason to rev an automatic trans equipped engine in neutral. And I assure you, you did have it before the accident.
#13
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It's not like I'm Neutral Dropping, god no, I like my transmission and axles LOL
I've seen some cars had that the rev limiter did not kick in if they were going in excess of 10mph, but this doesnt seem to be the case with my Cobalt at least
And I'm telling you, I definetly could rev past 5k pre-repair work. Probably a sign that something was broken, but all they replaced besides cosmetic work was the A/C condenser. So I doubt that alone would let you rev that high.
I knew I should of taken a video of it..
#14
The reason its quiet is thats how GM made it, Its and economy car, with economy parts, for people that need or want inexpensive transportation or project. My best guess is that the throttle learn program is messed up. And ECM/BCM for the transmission hasn't learned the drivers habits yet. Also you say you've had the car 2 days on the road, Beating it at WOT, where nothing in the engine is compleatly seated or proven, and our wondering why after and accident to boot, it isnt running right.
Thats also why the big white book in the glove box has this lil section in it.
Notice: Your vehicle does not need an elaborate break-in. But it will perform better in the long run if you follow these guidelines:
• Do not drive at any one constant speed, fast or slow, for the first 500 miles (805 km). Do not make full-throttle starts. Do not exceed 5,000 engine rpm. Avoid downshifting to brake or slow the vehicle.
• Avoid making hard stops for the first 200 miles (322 km) or so. During this time the new brake linings are not yet broken in. Hard stops with new linings can mean premature wear and earlier replacement. Follow this breaking-in guideline every time you get new brake linings.
• Do not tow a trailer during break-in. See Towing a Trailer for the trailer towing capabilities of your vehicle and more information.
Following break-in, engine speed and load can be gradually increased.
So best i can say is, take it back try and get it fixed, take your knocks, and learn from it.
Thats also why the big white book in the glove box has this lil section in it.
Notice: Your vehicle does not need an elaborate break-in. But it will perform better in the long run if you follow these guidelines:
• Do not drive at any one constant speed, fast or slow, for the first 500 miles (805 km). Do not make full-throttle starts. Do not exceed 5,000 engine rpm. Avoid downshifting to brake or slow the vehicle.
• Avoid making hard stops for the first 200 miles (322 km) or so. During this time the new brake linings are not yet broken in. Hard stops with new linings can mean premature wear and earlier replacement. Follow this breaking-in guideline every time you get new brake linings.
• Do not tow a trailer during break-in. See Towing a Trailer for the trailer towing capabilities of your vehicle and more information.
Following break-in, engine speed and load can be gradually increased.
So best i can say is, take it back try and get it fixed, take your knocks, and learn from it.
#15
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I dont wanna sound like a dick but you had the car 2 days before the accident. what you are describing is the LT. mine is the same way... there is lag because it is not an aggressive engine. it is quiet cuz its a stock airbox with a silencer. The AC... I don't know cuz I don't use mine. you cannot rev past 4k in neutral nor should you want to... if you could before than there was a problem with the rev limiter.
If you really feel like there is something wrong with the car bring it to the dealer and have them give it a once over. see if they find any real problems with it, but I don't think they will. This is a 4 cylinder economy car, not designed for speed or aggressiveness like you had previously with a custom tuned car.
If you really feel like there is something wrong with the car bring it to the dealer and have them give it a once over. see if they find any real problems with it, but I don't think they will. This is a 4 cylinder economy car, not designed for speed or aggressiveness like you had previously with a custom tuned car.
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I know its not a speed demon...I'm just confused as to why it's not performing like it used to?
It never lagged before, it got up and moved, now from like 0-30 it just laggs and then right before it shifts to 2nd bam, and it seems ok from there.
maybe 1st gear is messed up? But what could the repair shop have done to cause this?
idk, it's probably all in my head
It never lagged before, it got up and moved, now from like 0-30 it just laggs and then right before it shifts to 2nd bam, and it seems ok from there.
maybe 1st gear is messed up? But what could the repair shop have done to cause this?
idk, it's probably all in my head
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