HELP! Big Puddle.. Now CEL :[
08-09-2011, 09:48 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 07-12-08
Location: Raleigh, N.C.
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
HELP! Big Puddle.. Now CEL :[
So I was driving down the road at 4AM and it was raining so hard I could only see about ten feet in front of the car when I hit a puddle that didnt LOOK very deep, but my car slowed down and barely made it through before it finally just shut off. First thoughts.. Hydrolocked the motor, I'm screwed. But after waiting five minutes or so while giving it a little gas I finally got it started, bellowed out grey smoke and took off. Now the CEL is on, my auto tranny is acting up and I don't really know what to do.
Codes are P0131 (x2), P0171 system lean. Also saw 02 sensor problem, low voltage and a cylinder 4 misfire. I think the misfire needs a coil pack but what about everything else? Could it be related to the puddle?
The transmission is shifting VERY hard (almost like a shiftplus kit with responsiveness, just a little more jerky and unhealthy sounding haha) and clunks when I drop into D or R from park. It doesn't do it every time, but most of the time and only when it's warmed up. It runs fine when the tranny is cool. Car has 95k miles and tranny fluid hasnt been changed as far as I know.. Think I could've gotten some water in there or something?
What I'm going to do is SeaFoam and go from there. I'm gonna put it in my oil, gas, and intake but does anyone know if I can add a bit to my transmission fluid and then change it?
Also, which vacuum line is the best bet for SeaFoaming a 2.2? Thanks in advance for the help guys I'm really worried about my tranny
Codes are P0131 (x2), P0171 system lean. Also saw 02 sensor problem, low voltage and a cylinder 4 misfire. I think the misfire needs a coil pack but what about everything else? Could it be related to the puddle?
The transmission is shifting VERY hard (almost like a shiftplus kit with responsiveness, just a little more jerky and unhealthy sounding haha) and clunks when I drop into D or R from park. It doesn't do it every time, but most of the time and only when it's warmed up. It runs fine when the tranny is cool. Car has 95k miles and tranny fluid hasnt been changed as far as I know.. Think I could've gotten some water in there or something?
What I'm going to do is SeaFoam and go from there. I'm gonna put it in my oil, gas, and intake but does anyone know if I can add a bit to my transmission fluid and then change it?
Also, which vacuum line is the best bet for SeaFoaming a 2.2? Thanks in advance for the help guys I'm really worried about my tranny
08-09-2011, 07:35 PM
#4
Senior Member
Theres Nothing wrong with the tranny,theres other issues that are causing the shifting problem.
Do a search.
Changing the tranny fluid will not help but it wont hurt.I would be almost 100% there is no water in the tranny!
Wait till things are dry and clean that maf sensor.
Do a search.
Changing the tranny fluid will not help but it wont hurt.I would be almost 100% there is no water in the tranny!
Wait till things are dry and clean that maf sensor.
08-09-2011, 07:51 PM
#6
Senior Member
Also check the trans fuse under the hood in the fuse box.
Also look at the cam selinoids connectors while your right there maybe they got water in them.
Theres one for intake and another for exhaust.pull the connectors off and blow them out and
apply some di-electric grease (nothing else) and put them kback on.
If the selinoid is faulty you will get the hard shift that your talking about.
Do a search on hard shifting and look for a thread that pertains to your problem.
Also look at the cam selinoids connectors while your right there maybe they got water in them.
Theres one for intake and another for exhaust.pull the connectors off and blow them out and
apply some di-electric grease (nothing else) and put them kback on.
If the selinoid is faulty you will get the hard shift that your talking about.
Do a search on hard shifting and look for a thread that pertains to your problem.
Last edited by Coblasts; 08-09-2011 at 08:02 PM.
08-10-2011, 10:51 PM
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 07-12-08
Location: Raleigh, N.C.
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks a lot guys I SeaFoamed the motor and put it in the oil, gas tank, and throttle body haha because I have a 2.2 and couldnt find anything about which hose feeds all cylinders evenly but ANYWAYS I forgot to mention I have an Injen CAI so there is a very good chance it got wet although if this happened 5 days ago don't you think everything would be dry by now? Although it has been acting a lot better recently, but it does still shift hard occasionally. I'm gonna clean the MAF (should I spray it down with brake cleaner or what?) and intake filter tomorrow then I'm changing my motor oil and transmission fluid tomorrow evening so I'm hoping everything will be accounted for. Who makes a good synthetic transmission fluid?
Just a side note on the SeaFoam... I got very little smoke at all I pulled my intake off and slowly fed about 1/3 of the bottle down the throttlebody and the motor was straining just like it should so I cut it off for about 8 minutes and let it sit, put it in the oil and gas tank and started it up. I got a few puffs but did I do something wrong? I feel like there may be a more direct route to inject it to all cylinders. Either way, I've ran Mobil 1 synthetic oil for the past 4 oil changes and premium fuel so I'm hoping my motor is just clean :]
Just a side note on the SeaFoam... I got very little smoke at all I pulled my intake off and slowly fed about 1/3 of the bottle down the throttlebody and the motor was straining just like it should so I cut it off for about 8 minutes and let it sit, put it in the oil and gas tank and started it up. I got a few puffs but did I do something wrong? I feel like there may be a more direct route to inject it to all cylinders. Either way, I've ran Mobil 1 synthetic oil for the past 4 oil changes and premium fuel so I'm hoping my motor is just clean :]
08-10-2011, 10:53 PM
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 07-12-08
Location: Raleigh, N.C.
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Also check the trans fuse under the hood in the fuse box.
Also look at the cam selinoids connectors while your right there maybe they got water in them.
Theres one for intake and another for exhaust.pull the connectors off and blow them out and
apply some di-electric grease (nothing else) and put them kback on.
If the selinoid is faulty you will get the hard shift that your talking about.
Do a search on hard shifting and look for a thread that pertains to your problem.
Also look at the cam selinoids connectors while your right there maybe they got water in them.
Theres one for intake and another for exhaust.pull the connectors off and blow them out and
apply some di-electric grease (nothing else) and put them kback on.
If the selinoid is faulty you will get the hard shift that your talking about.
Do a search on hard shifting and look for a thread that pertains to your problem.
08-16-2011, 09:01 PM
#11
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 07-12-08
Location: Raleigh, N.C.
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm going to get carb cleaner and a new ignition coil for cylinder 4 but I want to change my tranny fluid and put some Mobil 1 synthetic in there does anyone know how I might go about doing that since there's no friggin dipstick for it! Thanks Also my exhaust has been puffing black smoke is that still from the seafoam? It smells like carbon but its been a good week since I did it
08-16-2011, 10:37 PM
#13
Senior Member
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: 07-26-10
Location: AZ
Posts: 736
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
change the fluid only after it has been warmd to operating temperature.
loosen front left wheel, raise vehicle and support with jack stand, then remove wheel. on the side of the transaxle housing near the driveaxle you will see check/fill plug (upper one) and the drain plug (lower one).
remove lower then upper plug with drain pan under.
after completely drained, reinstall and tighten the lower plug.
using a hand pump, syringe or funnel, fill the transaxle until the its level with the lower edge of the filler hole. reinstall and tighten.
wheel back on, lower vehicle.
drive for a short distance, check for any leaks.
loosen front left wheel, raise vehicle and support with jack stand, then remove wheel. on the side of the transaxle housing near the driveaxle you will see check/fill plug (upper one) and the drain plug (lower one).
remove lower then upper plug with drain pan under.
after completely drained, reinstall and tighten the lower plug.
using a hand pump, syringe or funnel, fill the transaxle until the its level with the lower edge of the filler hole. reinstall and tighten.
wheel back on, lower vehicle.
drive for a short distance, check for any leaks.
08-17-2011, 10:49 PM
#14
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 07-12-08
Location: Raleigh, N.C.
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
15.7 MPG Still shifting hard as well Gotta get that coil pack replaced (hopefully all 4) and then go from there.
SIDE NOTE: DOES ANYONE KNOW IF THERE IS A GAP THAT NEEDS TO BE SET FOR IRIDIUM SPARK PLUGS AND WHAT IT IS OR IF THEY ARE FINE AS THEY ARE? The guy at Auto Zone assured me that the gap was preset but I just want to make sure.
change the fluid only after it has been warmd to operating temperature.
loosen front left wheel, raise vehicle and support with jack stand, then remove wheel. on the side of the transaxle housing near the driveaxle you will see check/fill plug (upper one) and the drain plug (lower one).
remove lower then upper plug with drain pan under.
after completely drained, reinstall and tighten the lower plug.
using a hand pump, syringe or funnel, fill the transaxle until the its level with the lower edge of the filler hole. reinstall and tighten.
wheel back on, lower vehicle.
drive for a short distance, check for any leaks.
loosen front left wheel, raise vehicle and support with jack stand, then remove wheel. on the side of the transaxle housing near the driveaxle you will see check/fill plug (upper one) and the drain plug (lower one).
remove lower then upper plug with drain pan under.
after completely drained, reinstall and tighten the lower plug.
using a hand pump, syringe or funnel, fill the transaxle until the its level with the lower edge of the filler hole. reinstall and tighten.
wheel back on, lower vehicle.
drive for a short distance, check for any leaks.
Thanks for all the help though guys I'm hoping to get my car running right here in the next couple of weeks
08-19-2011, 11:18 PM
#17
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 07-12-08
Location: Raleigh, N.C.
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
08-20-2011, 01:23 AM
#18
Member
Join Date: 08-23-10
Location: the north
Posts: 315
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah, auto trans service you unbolt the pan allowing the fluid to drain.
Replace the filter. Clean the gasket and underside of trans.
Gasket is reusable.
You Fill the trans (around 6L) through the Fill Cap at the top of the trans under the hood. Usually a red or black cap.
To set the proper level, vehicle running in P or N, remove the 11mm plug on the right side of the trans. When fluid drips out of this hole the correct level is set. That last post had nothing to do with your transmission.
You need to use Dexron VI trans fluid. Brand doesnt matter but dont use any other spec fluid.
The spark plug gap for your engine and acD plug combo is 0.043-0.037 in
The correct spark plug # for your engine should come pre-gapped unless defective, in which case you would just gap it yourself.
Always best to verify before installing.
Replace the filter. Clean the gasket and underside of trans.
Gasket is reusable.
You Fill the trans (around 6L) through the Fill Cap at the top of the trans under the hood. Usually a red or black cap.
To set the proper level, vehicle running in P or N, remove the 11mm plug on the right side of the trans. When fluid drips out of this hole the correct level is set. That last post had nothing to do with your transmission.
You need to use Dexron VI trans fluid. Brand doesnt matter but dont use any other spec fluid.
The spark plug gap for your engine and acD plug combo is 0.043-0.037 in
The correct spark plug # for your engine should come pre-gapped unless defective, in which case you would just gap it yourself.
Always best to verify before installing.
08-30-2011, 01:13 PM
#19
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 07-12-08
Location: Raleigh, N.C.
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah, auto trans service you unbolt the pan allowing the fluid to drain.
Replace the filter. Clean the gasket and underside of trans.
Gasket is reusable.
You Fill the trans (around 6L) through the Fill Cap at the top of the trans under the hood. Usually a red or black cap.
To set the proper level, vehicle running in P or N, remove the 11mm plug on the right side of the trans. When fluid drips out of this hole the correct level is set. That last post had nothing to do with your transmission.
You need to use Dexron VI trans fluid. Brand doesnt matter but dont use any other spec fluid.
The spark plug gap for your engine and acD plug combo is 0.043-0.037 in
The correct spark plug # for your engine should come pre-gapped unless defective, in which case you would just gap it yourself.
Always best to verify before installing.
Replace the filter. Clean the gasket and underside of trans.
Gasket is reusable.
You Fill the trans (around 6L) through the Fill Cap at the top of the trans under the hood. Usually a red or black cap.
To set the proper level, vehicle running in P or N, remove the 11mm plug on the right side of the trans. When fluid drips out of this hole the correct level is set. That last post had nothing to do with your transmission.
You need to use Dexron VI trans fluid. Brand doesnt matter but dont use any other spec fluid.
The spark plug gap for your engine and acD plug combo is 0.043-0.037 in
The correct spark plug # for your engine should come pre-gapped unless defective, in which case you would just gap it yourself.
Always best to verify before installing.
So I've cleaned my MAF with carb cleaner (it said will not harm MAF or O2 sensors on bottle)
Changed my plugs (AC Delco iridium)
Getting my coil pack to install this evening (FINALLY)
and I'm going to drop my oil pan, change filter and use REDLINE synthetic Dexron VI fluid
Any other suggestions or should that pretty much solve my issues? As of now car is still running VERY rough, bogging, misfiring hard and averaging 15.2 MPG. Im HOPING and am PRETTY SURE when I replace my coil pack it will run better but am I really losing 13 mpg from only a coil pack? I'm afraid there's something else going on there....
I seafoamed a couple weeks ago and I'm still blowing carbon constantly out the exhaust like it's caked in my muffler or something. I followed all seafoam instructions and read the thread on here but couldnt find a vacuum hose so I poured it directly into the throttle body. Did i screw up there?
Finally, (sorry for the lengthy post) there is a local shop who offers the BG complete induction system cleanup service that includes cleaning of the air induction, fuel induction, combustion chamber, and the EGR and I'm very highly considering having it done. There is a video and the entire process looks legit and the best of the best. Has anyone ever had this done / heard of it?? Thanks a lot here is the link to the vid WATCH IT AND TELL ME WHAT YOU THINK Z-Mech Auto Repair shop l BMW Mercedes VW Mini Mechanic Expert l EGR Service l Fuel and Air Induction Service l BG Induction System Clean-Up Service l Raleigh Mechanic Shop | Raleigh Car Repair Shop
Last edited by JWhit197; 08-30-2011 at 01:45 PM.
09-02-2011, 11:30 PM
#20
Junior Member
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: 11-30-09
Location: St Augustine FL
Posts: 484
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
sell car and buy amphibious vehicle. problem solved! lol...
id do a compression check just to make sure. i mean its not like its going to hurt anything, and if you have a small crack in a piston it could cause some of those symptoms.
id do a compression check just to make sure. i mean its not like its going to hurt anything, and if you have a small crack in a piston it could cause some of those symptoms.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post