devon9832

So I have my emissions test next week and I have the dreaded P0420 code. I have the GMPP exhaust with the factory cat.... Is there a cheaper fix to get me to pass?? I have an 06 S/C.

Coblasts

I think you would have warranty still on the emissions,check your manual.
Also ask the dealer if the code is a problem with getting emissons done.
What ever you do dont clear it ,that will also delete your drive cycles which I know you need.

Malaclypse

iTrader: (1)

P0420 won't pass emissions. Go to your local dealer and check to see if they extended coverage on cats for the SS/SC. I believe they did.

87gn06gto07irl

iTrader: (8)

o2 extender or a spark plug non fouler should also do the trick

MachiBLue

+1

I just did this today, so far code hasn't come up. I have to pass emissions by Monday, I'm confident it should pass. But if you're still under warranty, but as well go through the dealer to see if they cover it. If not, ~$5 and an hour of your time will get that CEL cleared, just google "cat non fouler" or something around those lines.

devon9832

Cool! Thanks peeps for the help... What is my drive cycle? I have cleared the code before because of the evap code that I was getting. Did I F something up?

scottie

You have to drive the car so much for your drive cycles to go through. If they aren't all complete when you take it in for the test, they'll fail you for not having your monitors set. They'll tell you to drive it 100 miles and come back.

chris88z24

Here's what to do:

1. Purchase HP Tuners software
2. Modify vehicle's computer in whichever manner you choose
3. Drive happy

Yesterday, I got a free bowl of egg drop soup because I scanned my friend's car for her. Eventually, the software will pay for itself.

myfakeevo

delete the sensor?

05Slowline

iTrader: (2)

Why is the car throwing a 420 code in the first place. if you have stock header, and stock cat intact, it shouldn't be doing that ****.
The only time i see 420 codes is when the cat shell may be there but the insides aren't, it's basically just saying that the rear sensor is seeing around the same readings as the front. So I would take it into the dealer cause if the cat is there it's not doing its job and I'm pretty sure there was a bulletin about it.

chris88z24

Yeah, the cat is shot for sure.

devon9832

damn it all... I'll just have to have it looked at... Def not tryna pay 800 for a new cat...

myfakeevo

a credit for hptuners is 50 dollars. and then you hit the delete button, then you pass inspection

devon9832

hmmmmmm ok.. How will i kno when it's time to change the oxygen sensor?? Have 105k miles on the odo...

myfakeevo

are you MR? deleting the sensor would require for you to never have the sensor again, **** the man

devon9832

What the hell is MR? **** the man tho?? ROTL....

myfakeevo

MR=mentally retarded

devon9832

not so funny anymore! Basically what I wanted to kno is...would i **** something else up by not changing the oxygen senor over time or the cat for that matter.

denlou

I'd also like to note if it's the cat that's gone, GM has a 7 year/160000km warranty on that part.

devon9832

I thought all the good warranties came with the 07 and beyond... I'll call tomorrow and ask jus to be sure.

bamaboy22

It's like 120k on the cat for the sc some recall thing

And I know someone on the site with an 05 had it done

myfakeevo

all a sensor does is monitor your car, unless its running bad, or your boost has changed dramatically, your car will be fine

but if people are saying that its covered, then get it fixed for free.....lets just hope its a cat and not the sensor

sensors are around 60 to 80 bucks

denlou

Let me know, I thought I read they extended it to all GM cars. Just that catalytic converter though haha.

devon9832

Hell if they'll replace the cat, i don't mind paying for the sensors to be changed out... lol


fingers crossed that this is the case....

MachiBLue

Generic OBD II "Drive Cycle"

Most OBD II ("On-Board Diagnostics II") diagnostic monitors will run at some time during normal operation of the vehicle.
However, to satisy all of the different Trip enable criteria and run all of the OBD II diagnostic monitors, the vehicle must be driven under a variety of conditions. The following drive cycle will (theoretically) allow all monitors to run on (??) vehicle. (Note: Drive cycle specifics vary by vehicle!)

1. Ensure that the fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full.
2. Start cold (below 86°F /30°C) and warm up until engine coolant temperature is at least 160° F (typically requires at least one minute; up to 3 minutes).
3. Accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for five minutes.
4. Decelerate without using the brake (coast down) to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute.
5. Restart and accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for two minutes.
6. Decelerate with using the brake [or the clutch!] by coasting down to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute.

General Motors (specific) OBD II Drive Cycle

Performing a GM OBDII Driving cycle:

1. Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 122°F (50°C) and within 11°F (6°C) of the ambient air temperature at startup.
Do not leave the key in prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
2. Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire, and - if closed loop is achieved- Fuel Trim.
3. Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 55mph (88km/hr) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
4. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
5. Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 20 mph (32km/hr). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
6. Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 55-60mph (88-96 km/hr). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
7. Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 55mph (88km/hr) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
8. Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.


My CEL still hasn't come on, but I still havent set all my monitors, I have to drive alooooot tomorrow before I take it in for my emissions test.