High pressure in clutch pedal during 3-4 shift
#1
Thread Starter
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,331
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From: NEPA
High pressure in clutch pedal during 3-4 shift
Hey guys, kinda having an issue with the car... About a year ago, I noticed during a 3-4 shift at wot, and high rpm, my clutch pedal gets real stiff and makes it very difficult to make the gear change. Now this doesn't happen all the time, seems to come and go. I'll give you some info:
- 66k miles on the car
- Rev limiter set at 7750 rpm, I shift around 7600 rpm give or take
- Clutch does not slip
- No issues during normal driving or 1-2 wot shifts
- Fresh clutch/brake fluid and properly bled
I've been researching the issues for a while now, and still can't come to a final verdict. Give me some thoughts and opinions on what this might be.
-Staged
The thread below is the best thread describing my issue, but never explains the exact cause:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/prob...d-pull-277555/
- 66k miles on the car
- Rev limiter set at 7750 rpm, I shift around 7600 rpm give or take
- Clutch does not slip
- No issues during normal driving or 1-2 wot shifts
- Fresh clutch/brake fluid and properly bled
I've been researching the issues for a while now, and still can't come to a final verdict. Give me some thoughts and opinions on what this might be.
-Staged
The thread below is the best thread describing my issue, but never explains the exact cause:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/prob...d-pull-277555/
#4
Thread Starter
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,331
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
#6
Thread Starter
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,331
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
#7
The only other thing I can tell you from my LSJ days is the TOB pressure valve starting to fail. There is a valve in the TOB that bleeds of excess pressure in the high rpms. When it fails it gets difficult to shift and sometimes can lock you out. This is one of the biggest reasons the LNF is considered an upgrade as it does not have this feature.
Here is mine when it failed on my LSJ. First the pedal started getting hard. Then is became almost non-existent. It never leaked a drop of fluid and when I pulled the trans all of that fell out. Drove it home 1000 miles broken like this.
Here is mine when it failed on my LSJ. First the pedal started getting hard. Then is became almost non-existent. It never leaked a drop of fluid and when I pulled the trans all of that fell out. Drove it home 1000 miles broken like this.
#8
Thread Starter
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,331
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
The only other thing I can tell you from my LSJ days is the TOB pressure valve starting to fail. There is a valve in the TOB that bleeds of excess pressure in the high rpms. When it fails it gets difficult to shift and sometimes can lock you out. This is one of the biggest reasons the LNF is considered an upgrade as it does not have this feature.
Here is mine when it failed on my LSJ. First the pedal started getting hard. Then is became almost non-existent. It never leaked a drop of fluid and when I pulled the trans all of that fell out. Drove it home 1000 miles broken like this.
Here is mine when it failed on my LSJ. First the pedal started getting hard. Then is became almost non-existent. It never leaked a drop of fluid and when I pulled the trans all of that fell out. Drove it home 1000 miles broken like this.
It's odd that it wouldn't act up all the time though and every gear if this was the case.
#9
Its probably starting to fail. It seems to slowly fail. Maybe it has something to do with load/torque? Idk for sure. Having changed over a dozen TOBs on these cars I have never understood them, I just hate them haha.
#10
Thread Starter
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,331
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
Yeah, I always hear of people having issues with tobs during clutch installs and such.
#11
They are super fragile when empty and being filled. Too many people try to bleed them like brakes and **** the seal on them. Vacuum bleed them only. Do not bench bleed. Inspect the seal prior to install.
#13
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Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,331
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From: NEPA
#14
The following users liked this post:
Staged07SS (05-26-2016)
#15
Thats what happened with my clutch it felt like very hard to press the pedal at high rpm shift from 3-4, lots of load. I was told it was the pressure plate shitting the bed.
Turns out a new clutch was what it needed.
Turns out a new clutch was what it needed.
#16
My pressure plate and disc were fine. Could have put them right back in.
#18
Did some google image digging but couldn't find an actual picture. It has the standard line male and female fitting on it. Male line into female side of the damper, and then the male side of the damper into the female clutch master. If you pull it out, the male line fits into the female clutch master.
Not sure if it will reach with the factory molded line. I know it reaches with an aftermarket braided.
There is a good chance you don't have it, but if you do I would remove it regardless if it solves the issue or not
Diagram is from an f23 car
Not sure if it will reach with the factory molded line. I know it reaches with an aftermarket braided.
There is a good chance you don't have it, but if you do I would remove it regardless if it solves the issue or not
Diagram is from an f23 car
#22
Thread Starter
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,331
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
Did some google image digging but couldn't find an actual picture. It has the standard line male and female fitting on it. Male line into female side of the damper, and then the male side of the damper into the female clutch master. If you pull it out, the male line fits into the female clutch master.
Not sure if it will reach with the factory molded line. I know it reaches with an aftermarket braided.
There is a good chance you don't have it, but if you do I would remove it regardless if it solves the issue or not
Diagram is from an f23 car
Not sure if it will reach with the factory molded line. I know it reaches with an aftermarket braided.
There is a good chance you don't have it, but if you do I would remove it regardless if it solves the issue or not
Diagram is from an f23 car
I did a solid pull this morning pulling onto the highway, and shifted into 4th and had no issues. Seems like it happens more on hot days.
#23
The dampener is seen from the top. Look behind the fuse box next to the strut tower. You move have to push a wire harness to the side but you can see it if it's there. You can see where the line connects to the master and it's right off of the master of you have it.
If you have it hit up Josh and get the OTTP stainless steel clutch line. I have it. You can't just remove it as you will need a longer line to reach without it. Josh's line is long enough to use it or delete it.
If you have it hit up Josh and get the OTTP stainless steel clutch line. I have it. You can't just remove it as you will need a longer line to reach without it. Josh's line is long enough to use it or delete it.
#24
if your going to replace the TOB wouldnt you want to do the entire clutch job ?
I have the OTTP clutch line and its a quality built piece and worked well for me. so +1 for that.
I have the OTTP clutch line and its a quality built piece and worked well for me. so +1 for that.
#25
Thread Starter
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,331
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
If my TOB is in fact bad, everything will be replaced. For how often I go full bore on a 3-4 shift I'll let it go for a bit.