High RPM After Cleaning Throttle Body
#26
Senior Member
Heres some info that might help you understand what is going on
Normal Mode
During the operation of the throttle actuator control (TAC) system, several modes or functions are considered normal. The following modes may be entered during normal operation:
• Minimum pedal value--At key-up the powertrain control module (PCM) updates the learned minimum pedal value.
• Minimum throttle position (TP) values--At key-up the PCM updates the learned minimum TP value. In order to learn the minimum TP value, the throttle blade is moved to the closed position.
• Ice break mode--If the throttle is not able to reach a predetermined minimum TP, the ice break mode is entered. During the ice break mode, the PCM commands the maximum pulse width several times to the throttle actuator motor in the closing direction.
Normal Mode
During the operation of the throttle actuator control (TAC) system, several modes or functions are considered normal. The following modes may be entered during normal operation:
• Minimum pedal value--At key-up the powertrain control module (PCM) updates the learned minimum pedal value.
• Minimum throttle position (TP) values--At key-up the PCM updates the learned minimum TP value. In order to learn the minimum TP value, the throttle blade is moved to the closed position.
• Ice break mode--If the throttle is not able to reach a predetermined minimum TP, the ice break mode is entered. During the ice break mode, the PCM commands the maximum pulse width several times to the throttle actuator motor in the closing direction.
#27
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 05-21-06
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That's what I was thinking, I don't get it. I drove it 26 miles to work today and it didn't get any better. I'm wondering if one of my sensors is bad. I looked at the throttle body and it seems to close up fine, nothing is bent or seems wrong. I just don't get it. This sucks.
#28
Junior Member
Join Date: 07-14-08
Location: ft. lauderdale
Posts: 483
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That's what I was thinking, I don't get it. I drove it 26 miles to work today and it didn't get any better. I'm wondering if one of my sensors is bad. I looked at the throttle body and it seems to close up fine, nothing is bent or seems wrong. I just don't get it. This sucks.
#30
YOUR FINE!
our throttle bodies are not the most "precision machined" pieces in the world.. if you hold the throttle body up to a light with it off the car and look at the clearance from the blade to the bore you see a small amount of light.
when you clean out all the carbon you clean carbon seal around the plate. so you actually have a small air leak. this is normal and will only last a week or 2 and then after that the carbon will build up again around the opening and seal the tb like normal..
nothing to worry about man
our throttle bodies are not the most "precision machined" pieces in the world.. if you hold the throttle body up to a light with it off the car and look at the clearance from the blade to the bore you see a small amount of light.
when you clean out all the carbon you clean carbon seal around the plate. so you actually have a small air leak. this is normal and will only last a week or 2 and then after that the carbon will build up again around the opening and seal the tb like normal..
nothing to worry about man
#31
Senior Member
Try spaying some wd-40 on every thing that moves or rotates.
when you cleaned it the lubrication came off of the moving parts and they are now sticking a bit causing the problem.
when you cleaned it the lubrication came off of the moving parts and they are now sticking a bit causing the problem.
Last edited by Coblasts; 04-13-2009 at 08:41 AM.
#32
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 05-21-06
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, after ordering another throttle body, it's still doing the same thing. I don't understand. It's like it's not relearning where to set the idle position after I cleaned the original one out. What's even stranger is that it worked ok when I used my brother's throttle body. Any ideas?
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: 05-07-07
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,847
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, after ordering another throttle body, it's still doing the same thing. I don't understand. It's like it's not relearning where to set the idle position after I cleaned the original one out. What's even stranger is that it worked ok when I used my brother's throttle body. Any ideas?
the small amount of crud buildup helps seal the TB at idle
drive it for 5k miles it should be fine
#34
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 05-21-06
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There has to be a way to reset it, I shouldn't have to get it dirty for it to work properly. And why haven't all the other people who cleaned out their TB's had this problem?
#36
Senior Member
you think thats bad. mine during the day if i go to stop when i put the clutch in the rpms jump up to about 1500 and i've seen it go all the way up to 3000 when i'm on a decline. but it doesn't do it in the morning.
#37
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 05-21-06
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#38
Senior Member
ya then i'm in the same boat. and i work in a shop full of GM techs and we can't figure it out. i think its the barometer cuz it only does it when its mid dayish. never in the morning.
#43
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 05-21-06
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've heard that unhooking the batter doesn't do anything. Is that not the case? I guess it's worth a try, I'll do it tonight. I wish there was a way I could just get all the carbon back in there. It takes time to build up 93,000 miles worth of carbon...
#44
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Of course unhooking the battery won't fix something like a leak, but it will fix the fuel and air tables to compensate for new mods.
I"m guessing reseting the computer won't do ****. I'd guess you have a leak or something . Recheck all connection from the Manfilold to TB gasket all the way to your intake filter.
I"m guessing reseting the computer won't do ****. I'd guess you have a leak or something . Recheck all connection from the Manfilold to TB gasket all the way to your intake filter.
#46
I'm beginning to believe that many of these erratic idle- after-TB-cleaning is cleaning fluid getting into the TB wiring/connections. If incorrect voltage (too high) gets sent to the ECM it's possible it will have some detrimental effect too.
#47
It's not the throttle body, sensors or hoses knocked off.... It's the driver... I tested this theory 4 times: When I changed from letting the car(slow in gear {Preferably 4th}, right foot lightly on brake, left foot disengage clutch once rpm falls under 1800 rpm)>>>>> to using the gears to slow the car {which rasies rpms}, my idle would jump up to 1500 rpm from normal 800 rpm when stopped at a light and bounce a little even....... Went back to letting the car slow in the gear its in {typically 4th}, the rpms dropping- not rising, and take right foot off throttle and put on brake lightly, car continues to slow, rpm still dropping, then disengage clutch at 2000-1800 rpm or so... and apply light braking... No more high idle...... When a person uses the gears to slow, the rpms jump up and the ECM remembers this and plays with the idle speed at a stop.....
DONT USE YOUR GEARS TO SLOW THE CAR DOWN....... It's that simple ... I've tried it too many times now....
DONT USE YOUR GEARS TO SLOW THE CAR DOWN....... It's that simple ... I've tried it too many times now....
#48
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: 07-27-07
Location: Puyallup, WA
Posts: 17,332
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's not the throttle body, sensors or hoses knocked off.... It's the driver... I tested this theory 4 times: When I changed from letting the car(slow in gear {Preferably 4th}, right foot lightly on brake, left foot disengage clutch once rpm falls under 1800 rpm)>>>>> to using the gears to slow the car {which rasies rpms}, my idle would jump up to 1500 rpm from normal 800 rpm when stopped at a light and bounce a little even....... Went back to letting the car slow in the gear its in {typically 4th}, the rpms dropping- not rising, and take right foot off throttle and put on brake lightly, car continues to slow, rpm still dropping, then disengage clutch at 2000-1800 rpm or so... and apply light braking... No more high idle...... When a person uses the gears to slow, the rpms jump up and the ECM remembers this and plays with the idle speed at a stop.....
DONT USE YOUR GEARS TO SLOW THE CAR DOWN....... It's that simple ... I've tried it too many times now....
DONT USE YOUR GEARS TO SLOW THE CAR DOWN....... It's that simple ... I've tried it too many times now....
#49
Senior Member
Join Date: 09-25-08
Location: Depew, NY
Posts: 5,384
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's not the throttle body, sensors or hoses knocked off.... It's the driver... I tested this theory 4 times: When I changed from letting the car(slow in gear {Preferably 4th}, right foot lightly on brake, left foot disengage clutch once rpm falls under 1800 rpm)>>>>> to using the gears to slow the car {which rasies rpms}, my idle would jump up to 1500 rpm from normal 800 rpm when stopped at a light and bounce a little even....... Went back to letting the car slow in the gear its in {typically 4th}, the rpms dropping- not rising, and take right foot off throttle and put on brake lightly, car continues to slow, rpm still dropping, then disengage clutch at 2000-1800 rpm or so... and apply light braking... No more high idle...... When a person uses the gears to slow, the rpms jump up and the ECM remembers this and plays with the idle speed at a stop.....
DONT USE YOUR GEARS TO SLOW THE CAR DOWN....... It's that simple ... I've tried it too many times now....
DONT USE YOUR GEARS TO SLOW THE CAR DOWN....... It's that simple ... I've tried it too many times now....
#50
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 05-21-06
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's not the throttle body, sensors or hoses knocked off.... It's the driver... I tested this theory 4 times: When I changed from letting the car(slow in gear {Preferably 4th}, right foot lightly on brake, left foot disengage clutch once rpm falls under 1800 rpm)>>>>> to using the gears to slow the car {which rasies rpms}, my idle would jump up to 1500 rpm from normal 800 rpm when stopped at a light and bounce a little even....... Went back to letting the car slow in the gear its in {typically 4th}, the rpms dropping- not rising, and take right foot off throttle and put on brake lightly, car continues to slow, rpm still dropping, then disengage clutch at 2000-1800 rpm or so... and apply light braking... No more high idle...... When a person uses the gears to slow, the rpms jump up and the ECM remembers this and plays with the idle speed at a stop.....
DONT USE YOUR GEARS TO SLOW THE CAR DOWN....... It's that simple ... I've tried it too many times now....
DONT USE YOUR GEARS TO SLOW THE CAR DOWN....... It's that simple ... I've tried it too many times now....