As the title says, how do I change my Lnf tensioner.

I've read through the LJS tensioner sticky.
It's not CLEAR enough.

From Powell's comments it's:
1-chock car and put in nuetral.
2-remove tensioner.
3-install new tensioner.
4-Start up car.

Is this right????

Also what if the tensioner I buy isn't set?

How would I set it? .... What's the tools name?
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thanks.
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Do you mean timing chain tensioner?

 

Or belt tensioner?

 

From the "Is it set up" comment I would presume its the chain tensioner. If this is the case, loosen the upper charge pipe, and set it aside. You may also need to remove the fuel line, but in many cases you dont have to. Then remove all the coil packs and unhook the cam sensors. Also unhook the map sensor and the intake and remove from bay, and go ahead and finish pulling the valve cover. Next remove the tensioner, its right below valve cover on the back of the engine on passenger side. You should just be able to get on it with a ratchet. I never torqued mine, just made sure it was reasonably tight, but if you can get a torque wrench in there more power to you. Screw in the new one and place a long flat screw driver blade or long flat sturdy piece of wood down on the chain near the tensioner and give it ( the screwdriver ) a few taps with a hammer. The shock should release the tensioner. It sounds worse then what it is, you should be in and out in an hour and change

 

You don't need to give it a few taps. Just apply pressure until you feel it engage and tension. It needs to be pressed down a few mm's

 

Here is what installation manual says " The timing chain tensioner is released by compressing it 2 mm (0.079 in) which will release the locking mechanism in the ratchet. To release the timing chain tensioner, use a suitable tool with a rubber tip on the
end. Feed the tool down through the cam drive chest to rest on the cam chain. Then give a sharp jolt
diagonally downwards to release the tensioner"

So thats exactly what I did, I think I used the handle of my serpentine belt tool. Are you saying if you just push on it it will release?

 

Here's the thing .... Powell says in most threads that all he's ever done is direct swap in about five minutes. That's for the new style he says. And aren't most manuals based off the original tensioner?
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I do know if its already extended its difficult to get it to thread in with the tension pushing out and not a lot of room to stick your hand in. But then again its been awhile, about 3 years since I did it last, I wouldnt be surprised if they again redesigned it since then.

 

I think the new ones are supposed to come compressed .... Not sure .... I'm gonna pick one up today.
you think I could do it just buy pulling out the old and installing the new???? .... And making sure not to make the chain jump around.

I don't know whether to call Powell or not .... Over this .... I haven't bought from him, Yet! .... So I don't wanna free load ....

 

Yes they come compressed. If not, you can compress it.

The point is you have two options. The proper way to change just the tensioner is to remove the valve cover, which requires removing the stuff that cw383 mentioned. That way you can put a tool down to set the tensioner. If you want to skip removing the valve cover you will have to set the tensioner before installing it. That means you are screwing it in with the plunger extended.

Do you know why you are replacing the tensioner? I haven't really heard of many tensioners on LNF's having issues. If your chain is stretched, a new tensioner isn't going to solve your problem.

 

BTW. You can remove the old one and take out the little snap ring in it and reset it. It's easy if you have snap ring pliers. The assembly just twists down and locks into place

 

how would I compress it if I needed to? No one really says how to do that on the new tensioners.

Why would I have to remove the valve cover? Just to set it?? Doesn't it set on startup via oil pressure??

Never heard of installing it already extended .... Hmmmmmm .... Praps.

Higher rpm chain rattle .... Which I naturally assume is the tensioner messed up. Could be other things but process of elimination.

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Why would I reset the old one? If it's faulty I'd just replace ....

How many people have taken the cover off and etc to do there tensioners??
Why is Powell the only one who does it quick without doing this and that?? According to threads he just opens the hood and bingo ....
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Because he activates the tensioner and then screws it in lol. That has to be the answer

 

​​​​that could be it 🤔 ....

​​​​​​if I pulled my cover on my LNF .... Would I need any cam locking tools or anything special?

Do I do the zip tie method?

Do I have to remove the oil feed line from the turbo if I pulled the cover?

I just need the least amount of work .... As there is a ton of other work to do.

I'm game to remove the cover as long is it's not gonna mess anything up, and as long as I don't have to mess with any fuel lines or any rot.
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If your just doing the tensioner, just activate it and screw it in. It'll take a lot of force though.

 

You have a few options depending how picky you are. You can just do what I said and screw it in activated, you can pull the cam cover and activate it by pushing down on the chain, or you can make sure your timing is right by removing the front cover and cam sprockets. Or, you can get a timing chain kit and do the whole job properly without any worries that your current chain is stretched and guides worn. That's what I would do lol

 

If it's possible id just rather not remove everything .... Just rather straight swap the tensioner if it's not gonna F anything up.

Activate and install??? That work?
Just make sure it's sliding out then screw it in???

 

Yeah just apply some pressure to it and twist and it should pop out and kind of lock. It might be a pain in the ass to screw in the head though. Just a heads up

 

I think he taps the bolt head to activate it. Its spring loaded so it pops out easy.

 

Year doesn't work like that lol. Been there done that

 

Just an assumption, never said it worked or didnt.

 

I'm just putting it out there so people don't waste their time like I did thinking that it works. I took the tensioner out over and over thinking it was flawed lol

 

Like knocks the crown of the tensioner after it's installed? ....
From what I gathered, he just let it pop out on it's own because it's pressure based, the new version.

 

I think it pops by itself from what I gathered when studying his a bit to short replys ....