ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

I forget what blue on those mean

GreenStang

It starts as blue but it's supposed to turn like a yellow green color if it's bad.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Do you ever notice any white smoke from the exhaust?

GreenStang

No white smoke. Oil on the dipstick looks brand new.

exninja

iTrader: (1)

How much coolant are you losing?

When my porous block happened, I found lots of missing coolant in my oil pan. Mine was really drinking it though. I know this isn't an LNF, just giving another place to look. Oil floats in coolant, so the coolant collects at the pan. If it evaporates and condenses you see it in the valve cover/oil fill cap. Also if it mixes and gets frothy you can see it in the dipstick.

The test via blackstone labs will be very definitive about the presence of coolant in the oil. Even if the water is gone they'd pick up the ethylene glycol.

Unfortunately most tests like the coolant combustion gas test thing that show negative don't necessarily eliminate causes.

GreenStang

Well here's the deal, when I first got the car I drove a 6 hour round trip to go get it from this dealer. I drove the 3 hours back with the car and when I got home in my driveway it gave me the low coolant light. I looked and the reservoir was indeed low. I put some coolant in it and all was good, but the light returned. The Chevy dealer had tested the coolant sensor in the reservoir and said it was bad as well, and they sold me a new coolant reservoir (have not installed yet). They left the plug unplugged on my coolant reservoir because the sensor was bad according to them anyways and with it unplugged I wouldn't see the false "low coolant" message. I plugged the sensor back up and I check the coolant reservoir just about every time I go somewhere and if it's perfect at the cold fill line then I'll still add coolant and overfill it in order to make sure I have enough coolant because I suspect it's using it due to seeing it low before and plus what the previous owner has told me. This brings me to this point do you think I'm adding coolant and due to me overfilling it its just pushing the majority of it out of the overflow? The car isn't using much coolant, if any at all, for instance I went on vacation about 3-4 weeks ago and it was about a 2 hour trip one way and I had filled the cars coolant ,and I have stated I always slightly overfill, before I left and I drove the car while on vacation for 2 days and then drove home (about 80 miles) and the cars coolant was still fine. So if it's using coolant then it's not using much, but I do suspect it is using some.

GreenStang

Just tried to test that ECaulk suggested. First start of the car today, in other words completely cold, and let it run for about 30-45 secs and then held the revs to about 1,500-2,000 for a few seconds and then turned the car off and removed the coolant reservoir cap and there was not any pressure.

GreenStang

Here's where my coolant level is at as of now.

GreenStang

Picture of the oil on the dipstick, and picture of inside the valve cover.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Replace the coolant bottle.

Not sure if this is a problem on the Cobalts, but on VW's ALH engine (TDI early 00's) they had a coolant mitigation issue with a level sensor where the coolant would actually wick out from the sensor onto the electrical connection and then leak. Their coolant leaves gives a clear indication of a leak a nice off white powder.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Nix my last comment until you change the oil. Drain it into a pan, and let it drain for a very long time like no more dripping from the plug

GreenStang

I think I should get the oil analysis done. What's the cost of that? I just called my local Chevy dealer and they said 160 dollars to replace the coolant reservoir (I already have the part) and bleed the system.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

if you drain the oil into a clean pan, pour it into a milk jug and let it seperate. this will tell you if there is coolant in the oil. The pic you posted of under the oil cap looks pretty milky around the edges.

GreenStang

That seems good and all, but I don't have time to do that right now. I need the car for college that is ongoing now. The car has like 60% oil life left as well. This is why the oil analysis is a little more appealing to me.

GreenStang

What's everyone's opinion on maybe using some form of stop leak? Also my car has the ZZP Stealth Heat Exchanger but the Radiator that sits behind it (closer to the motor in which the fans are mounted) moves around some. Anyone have this problem when using the ZZP Stealth Heat Exchanger?

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

You still have to drain the oil to have it analyzed.

GreenStang

Well my father looked at the oil (stuck his finger in the valve cover) and confirmed it was coolant mixed with it. I am just gonna bite the bullet and get the head gasket replaced AGAIN in hopes that the previous owner may not have installed it correctly or something or maybe the heads machining is out of whack. My local Chevy dealer quoted me about 1,200 dollars for the job. I figure while I'm at it I may as well get one of the ZZP stage kits installed as well. Anything else I should go ahead and get done? Timing chain has already been replaced.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Timing parts, water pump, and t-stat

GreenStang

Okay. I have been in contact with the car's previous owner some today and he mentioned that I might want to get the oil cooler checked out too because he seen where someone had coolant loss and the oil cooler was the culprit? Anyone have anything to say about that? Also my mods on the car are: ZZP 3" CAI, ZZP 3" DP Catless, ZZP header (long tube I believe), and ZZP Stealth Heat Exchanger. I am wanting to get one of the ZZP Stage Kits and I am considering the Stage 2 Kit with a 2.8" pulley, 60# injectors, and getting their PCM with the tune. One part of their site says: "The 2.8" pulley would require cams to be safe" but then another says: "2.8" requires a larger heat exchanger, dual pass end plate, header/downpipe, and 93+ octane gas or E85." My point is one part of the site says with the 2.8" pulley you need cams to be safe, and the other doesn't mention cams. Then it talks about needing a dual pass endplate, but then it calls it "optional". What do y'all recommend?

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Get the coolant leak taken care of now. Then deal with the mods later, give yourself some time to enjoy the car as is and give serious consideration to the mods you're talking about.

GreenStang

ECaulk, I understand where you're coming from, and I am going to get the coolant leak fixed (hopefully), but I was going to have the Stage Kit installed while they were at it as well. I guess I could wait on the Stage Kit and have them do it later on and just wait and see what its going to cost to get the coolant leak fixed, or better yet see if we can even find out what's causing the coolant leak so that we can fix it.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Wait on the stage kit and install it yourself. It's not worth paying someone else if you're mechanically inclined.

GreenStang

Could the Oil Cooler be causing this issue?? If so, how could I check that out? Also if I end up getting the head gasket replaced then this will be my parts list so tell me if I am missing anything or if you disagree with a part please and why.


ARP Head Studs from ZZP
GM Stock Head Gasket
Water Pump (maybe, possibly an electric one?)
Stock Thermostat (whatever degree that is, not sure)


Anything else I'm missing here that I need or should add?


Thanks everyone!

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

It could definitelybe the oil cooler, i didnt even think of that.

GreenStang

Where is the Oil cooler located? Also how can I check it? But my thing is if the oil cooler was bad wouldn't it be mixing oil in my coolant reservoir as well or no??