Problems/Service/Maintenance Do you have problems with your new 2.0, 2.2, or 2.4L? What kind of service did you have done?

Just Another Coolant Loss Thread...

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Old 02-02-2016, 08:49 PM
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i guess it depends on where its cracked and the pressure of each system. im not sure that theres an easy way to check the oil cooler but its above the trans on the drivers side of the block.
Old 02-03-2016, 11:27 AM
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I cleaned the oil cap off yesterday and I just got back from my college class this morning (the drive is about 20 miles each way) I checked the oil cap when I got back and I see some sludgy oil that's mixed with coolant. I also took another picture of the coolant reservoir right when I got home (car is up to temperature now, compare to the cold coolant reservoir picture I posted previously). I know the coolant level is supposed to rise when hot but it doesn't look like it has risen much at all and "I believe" when it gets cooled off that it'll be low or almost low on coolant. What do y'all think?
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Old 02-03-2016, 12:47 PM
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Oil coolers, in my experience, leak oil into the coolant and not the other way, on these cars. Too much oil pressure, the coolant can't go in but the oil can come out.

I'd check for a leak from the front shaft on the water pump, it's chain driven so if it's leaking coolant will go into the timing chain area and contaminate the oil.
Old 02-03-2016, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
Oil coolers, in my experience, leak oil into the coolant and not the other way, on these cars. Too much oil pressure, the coolant can't go in but the oil can come out.

I'd check for a leak from the front shaft on the water pump, it's chain driven so if it's leaking coolant will go into the timing chain area and contaminate the oil.
ItalianJoe, I have noticed that while searching around online that what you said is indeed true. Most issues of the oil coolers being bad causes the oil into the coolant, not vice versa.

You bring up a good point on the water pump. Would this, could this, cause oil in the valve cover to be milky looking, but the dipstick looks fine?

Also I'm contemplating renting a pressure tester from O'Reilys later today, and giving that a shot tomorrow. I know I've already had the car pressure tested by my local Chevy dealer, but I kind of want to do it myself and see what exactly happens. I've never done a pressure test, how would I perform this on the Cobalt?

Thanks!
Old 02-03-2016, 06:12 PM
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So... Would you roll the dice and get the head gasket replaced again or would you bank on a porous block or cracked or warped head? What's everyone's opinions of what they would do?
Old 02-03-2016, 10:44 PM
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Head gaskets on these cars, very rarely fail.

With higher mileage, the water pumps can fail and a small leak would present as you say, with minor coolant loss from time to time, and some coolant residue in the oil. The oil gets hot enough to boil out water, so if there's a small leak, a lot of it will turn to vapor and end up in the baffles in the valve cover as that's the PCV system's job, to separate the liquids out of the air before it goes back into the manifold.
Old 02-03-2016, 10:46 PM
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As far as the pressure test, if you borrow one of the kits from an auto parts store, it should have the right adapter for the coolant bottle. You need to pressurize it and check for leaks, again if it's very small you won't see anything.

As much of a pain as it is, I would suggest pulling that little cover from the timing cover and trying to look at the water pump, see if there's any evidence of it leaking into there. It's gonna be hard to see past the water pump drive pulley but hopefully you see something.
Old 02-03-2016, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
As far as the pressure test, if you borrow one of the kits from an auto parts store, it should have the right adapter for the coolant bottle. You need to pressurize it and check for leaks, again if it's very small you won't see anything.

As much of a pain as it is, I would suggest pulling that little cover from the timing cover and trying to look at the water pump, see if there's any evidence of it leaking into there. It's gonna be hard to see past the water pump drive pulley but hopefully you see something.
ItalianJoe, thanks so much for your replies! Great info you've provided! So on the passenger side of the engine the 4 bolts if I remove them that's the water pump inspection plate correct? Also would you have an idea of what it costs to get the water pump replaced? Also my car does have high mileage (167 or 168 thousand). Again, thanks for your replies!
Old 02-04-2016, 11:03 AM
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Unsure on the cost, the labor is a bit intensive if you don't have the chain holder tool as the timing chain cover would have to come off. Couple hours labor, not horrible but not as simple as a lot of cars.

Yes the little cover is actually for replacing the water pump but if you remove it you should be able to see in there and look for evidence of coolant leaks.
Old 02-04-2016, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
Unsure on the cost, the labor is a bit intensive if you don't have the chain holder tool as the timing chain cover would have to come off. Couple hours labor, not horrible but not as simple as a lot of cars.

Yes the little cover is actually for replacing the water pump but if you remove it you should be able to see in there and look for evidence of coolant leaks.
Hey Joe, I agree labor would have to be intensive because I just took the little inspection plate off and it's a challenge somewhat just to get to all the bolts, plus you have to remove it with a wrench. I couldn't imagine changing the water pump lol. I did see some oil where the inspection plate is and I took a picture, unfortunately I couldn't really see anything else.
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Old 02-04-2016, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Slowbalt2000
if you drain the oil into a clean pan, pour it into a milk jug and let it seperate. this will tell you if there is coolant in the oil. The pic you posted of under the oil cap looks pretty milky around the edges.
I let mine set for a week trying to get it to separate since I was having coolant loss, no luck, sent sample to Blackstone Laboratories ($25 and they will send you all you need to take and ship a sample) and they found the chemicals that make up antifreeze but no water, apparently it burns off, Cracked/Porus LNF for me.
Old 02-04-2016, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by sixgear
I let mine set for a week trying to get it to separate since I was having coolant loss, no luck, sent sample to Blackstone Laboratories ($25 and they will send you all you need to take and ship a sample) and they found the chemicals that make up antifreeze but no water, apparently it burns off, Cracked/Porus LNF for me.
I have already ordered a BlackStone kit in case I decide to go that route. Also they charge 28 dollars now for the analysis.
Old 02-05-2016, 07:30 PM
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Okay I rented a pressure tester from O'Reilys today and I got the adapter that fits the expansion tank on the car and put it on the tank and proceeded to pump the air into it and the pumps gauge isn't building any pressure!? I can remove the tester and place my thumb on the part that sprays air out and pump it and it will be build pressure on the gauge. Am I missing something here?? Someone please chime in I only have the tester rented for 48 hours. Picture of the setup is below. Thanks!
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Old 02-05-2016, 07:32 PM
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Picture rotated
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Old 02-05-2016, 09:57 PM
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depending on what adapter it comes with, you may need to pinch off the overflow hose on the coolant bottle to get pressure.

Also, if you remove the wheel and look into the inspection cover area from the bottom you might be able to see in. I haven't tried, for me it's easy enough to pull the front cover if needed, and I haven't had to change an ecotec water pump personally, never seen one fail on my cars.
Old 02-05-2016, 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ItalianJoe1
depending on what adapter it comes with, you may need to pinch off the overflow hose on the coolant bottle to get pressure.

Also, if you remove the wheel and look into the inspection cover area from the bottom you might be able to see in. I haven't tried, for me it's easy enough to pull the front cover if needed, and I haven't had to change an ecotec water pump personally, never seen one fail on my cars.
Is the overflow hose the one on the top of the overflow tank? It runs over to the intake area it's a fairly long hose?
Old 02-05-2016, 11:47 PM
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No the one that attaches right by the cap, runs down the side of the tank. I'm trying to remember if there is one that's blockable on the LSJ tank.

If you have the right adapter with the o-rings that seal at the neck like the factory cap it should be fine, but usually if you're not able to build any pressure you have a seal issue with the tester adapter or the vent is not blocked off.
Old 02-05-2016, 11:58 PM
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The only hose I see that is by the cap is the one I'm referring to that runs over to the valve cover area and it attaches to a metal tube. I probably am doing something wrong with my assembly of the pressure tester tool. I have never done a pressure tester before. I am using the O Reily EverLast 67089 kit.
Old 02-06-2016, 12:17 AM
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Here's some pics of the pressure tester
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Old 02-06-2016, 12:24 PM
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What's this hose called? I assume the overflow hose but I cannot find anything about it online. I tried to crimp the hose off with a pair of vice grips and it tore the hoses exterior a little so I want to go ahead and get a replacement if someone knows the part #? Also does anyone know how to use a pressure tester on our cars lol???
Old 02-06-2016, 12:25 PM
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This hose
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Old 02-06-2016, 01:43 PM
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I think his hoses part # is 10394794 and it's called a inlet hose? What exactly does this hose do? I accidentally tore it a little with the vice grips trying to plug the hose off and see if that would allow me to build pressure up to do the pressure test. The test is VERY small and I just want to know what this hose does and if it will hurt anything to run the car with the hose having a very small tear. Also does anyone know ANYTHING about pressure testing our cars?! I need to know lol I only have the tester for one more day.
Old 02-06-2016, 02:01 PM
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Okay, I figured something out since I have a new coolant tank laying around I tested the pressure tester on it and I was looking around on the new coolant reservoir and it has a hole on the bottom that leaks air (overflow maybe?) and when I plugged it with my hand it built up pressure so that's the problem with why I can't do a pressure test because I need to plug that hole somehow. Anyone have a clue what that hole in the overflow tank is for? Also how to remove the overflow tanks weird stud? I have to remove it to plug that hole so I can pressure test it. Sorry for all the posts I'm just trying to inform everyone and get this figured out.
Old 02-06-2016, 02:02 PM
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Here's the hole.
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Old 02-06-2016, 02:04 PM
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Its the overflow, look closer at the area the cap goes, there is a small slot that will be above it. If the cap pops from pressure thats where it goes.


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