GreenStang

Okay so the small hole is the overflow? What is the hose on the barb at the top that runs to the intake manifold then? It runs to a small metal tube on the intake manifold (front of motor)?

Also how do you remove the stud holding the overflow tank in?

Thanks!

GreenStang

This stud. I need to remove it to get to the slot in the bottom to plug it because the air is escaping from the slot and it won't let me build pressure when I try to do the pressure test.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Those things are so dumb, if you get lucky you can spin it off with some pliers, otherwise just pry it off.

GreenStang

Agreed. I took a mini pick screwdriver and pried the tabs up and it came right off though. I didn't bother replacing it because it's rusty and it doesn't hold it in place anyways.

GreenStang

Never could get the old tank to hold pressure, even holding my finger over the overflow hole. I had a new coolant tank (dealer sold me one "said" my sensor in my tank was bad) and so I decided to go ahead and install the new overflow tank while I had all that out anyways to see if it cures anything. That big hose that hooks to the bottom barb on the overflow tank is a real pain in the ass, and not to mention the idiotic hose clamps they used, plus the clamps weren't installed so that you could access them (facing downwards). After a lot of ingenuity, busted knuckles, the use of a screwdriver, 2 pairs of vice grips, and holding my mouth right, it finally went on!

Should I have to bleed the cooling system now?? I wouldn't think so?

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Depends on how much coolant you drained. Just turn the heat on full blast and drive around for 15 minutes with the cap loose so bubbles can escape.

cluelessk

Sounds like you needed one if of these. Saves so much frustration.

GreenStang

What the hell is that lol?

GreenStang

What do you mean "how much I drained"? The big hose that goes on the barb on the bottom of the coolant tank lost a little coolant but not much. Just want clarification of what exactly you're talking about.

Thanks

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

That presses the clamps and you just remove. it's super easy to use and comes in handy

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

Shouldnt really need to bleed it then

cluelessk

Locking hose clamp tool.

GreenStang

Well after replacing the coolant tank I haven't done anything else, I haven't added any more coolant. I have drove the car too see if it is indeed loosing coolant or not. This picture attached is with the car up to temperature shouldn't the coolant level be higher than Attachment 8832that when up to temp?

GreenStang

Here's the coolant level up to temp.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

doesnt look bad to me

GreenStang

It's up to temp though there? It's like right even with the cold fill line when it's up to temp. Is that normal?? I always thought when hot it would be way higher than the cold fill line?

exninja

iTrader: (1)

Not really. The gas in the tank will expand with heat, more so than the liquid. When I open the tank hot, usually the coolant level in the tank rises.

Also, don't open the tank when hot.

Slowbalt2000

iTrader: (1)

this lol

it explodes and starts boiling

RedLined

I have had experience with blown head gaskets from initial symptoms to full on failure with clouds of smoke pouring from the exhaust. In my experience techs cant for whatever reason diagnose a bad head gasket till the smoke is pouring from the exhaust. I don't know why. With my ion the initial cause was me letting a cracked radiator leak enough of the coolant for the engine to overheat and crack the oil cooler. At that time the head gasket was also damaged but didn't show symptoms for almost a year. When it did start showing symptoms it started with coolant consumption, then intermittent starting issues. Saturn techs couldnt figure it out, they thought I had a bad crank sensor. Turns out coolant was making its way into the cylinders when the car would sit after being driven for a while. So when I would try to start it a few cylinders would have coolant in them and it wouldn't start. I found that if I popped the reservoir cap after each drive (releasing the pressure in the system) the car would start fine.

My gf's 09 G6 2.4 had a similar experience. Before she purchased it the previous owner had been in a front end collision and the radiator was damaged. About 18 months later she purchased it and 3-4 months after that it started experiencing coolant loss every few days. She took it to the dealer, they couldn't find anything wrong with it even though I told them I was sure it had a blown head gasket. 6 months later the exhaust was billowing white smoke.

So I guess what im trying to say is, you wont really know for sure if you have a blown gasket until:
A. You take apart the engine and examine the head and gasket.
B. It fails when you start the car one day and you drive down the road in a cloud of white smoke.
That's been my experience anyway.

GreenStang

On every car I've ever seen when up to temperature the coolant, being hot, will rise, due to heat expansion. Then when the car cools down, the coolant level will lower to the "cold fill line". Also thanks for the .02 cents on not opening the coolant tank when it's hot, but no offence I'm not stupid haha. This ain't my first time working on a car, and it wont be the last, unfortunately haha.

GreenStang

Thanks for your post, but I have mentioned that the previous owner did replace he head gasket just 2 weeks before he sold the car to the Chevy dealer that I bought it from. He said he thought it was the head gasket as well, due to the coolant consumption, and he had removed the valve cover and seen signs of coolant "he said" before as well as after the head gasket replacement. He was stumped, and told me it was one of the reasons he had decided to get rid of the car. The car really runs too damn good for me to believe that anything serious is wrong with it personally. My highway temperatures never exceed 180, they're usually about 170, and the car starts right up fine whether it's cold or hot, and the dipstick oil looks new. I am stumped as well on the issue, and I have lost hope, faith, and respect for my local Chevy service center. I wish someone would come along and bring some new insight as to what they think the problem might be, or could be. As for now, I have not added any coolant at all today (the car was even with the cold fill line when I left this morning for college) and I made two trips back and forth to college today, but I have yet to look and see where the coolant is at now afterI returned home from my second trip. I drove about 60 miles today altogether, so I'll look and see tomorrow where my coolant level has dropped too. I usually ALWAYS overfill the coolant reservoir just to be sure I have enough, because I feel like it uses coolant, but now I also wonder if I haven't just been overfilling it and it's just sending all of the extra coolant I am putting in it out of the overflow, but that's why I am not adding any coolant to it now and I am going to see where the coolant level goes too.

exninja

iTrader: (1)

Give it a try. As long as the coolant temp is below 210°F it won't boil. You may have to bleed it again though.

Your other cars may be older and have a different overflow setup.

GreenStang

I'm not sure what you're implying that I "give a try"? I'm not trying to be rude, I just don't understand the post lol.

exninja

iTrader: (1)

Your coolant level doesn't rise (much) in the tank as the engine heats up. That's all. If you don't believe me about the rising when you open the cap you can do it as long as the coolant isn't over boiling temp, but you'd just need to bleed it again when it gets cold. The reason it says "cold fill" is because if you try to fill it to that level hot, then the level in the tank would drop after sealing, and/or you'd get an air bubble in the system.

Really, it doesn't matter. The main point is compare the coolant level at a consistent temperature each time, but i think you already know that.

Northindy

I did not read all these posts, so maybe this had already been suggested. You should have the oil tested to ensure no coolant is leaking. The leak could be slow enough that you won't notice it in the oil since it will burn out, but the non-volatile components/salts from the coolant will show up in an analysis. A good use of a $30 test. Also shows any metal wear. Just because the gasket was replaced, doesn't mean it was done correctly.