ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

No engine coolant in the intake manifold. But yeah it can't be many things.

GreenStang

..

GreenStang

Does this kit include everything needed to replace the head gasket? Cylinder Head Gasket Kit Cobalt 2.0 LSJ 2005 - 2007 12595961


If so, I am just going to purchase it and have them replace the head gasket, because I think its the culprit. A common problem I see with people with head gasket problems is that they don't want to accept that the head gasket is the problem so they waste a ton of money elsewhere searching for a different problem.


Also why in the hell is the LSJ head like 900 dollars, and the LNF head is like 300-400 dollars??? I remember the previous owner telling me that he had the head "reworked", and from what I have seen online you are not supposed to do anything to an Ecotec head because they are made to be "disposable"? While I don't think resurfacing it "a little" would hurt in order to ensure a flat even sealing surface, but I just don't know the qualifications of the previous owners mechanic that did the repairs and how much was taken off of the cylinder head.


Anyone care to chime in? If there are any other parts I should have them replace while doing the head gasket please let me know.


Thanks

GreenStang

Also if I buy a ZZP stage 3 kit, dual pass endplate, and option b will they already have all of the stuff off needed to install the stage kit while they are doing the head gasket? If so I am going to buy a stage 3 kit from ZZP and have it installed while they're at it, if all of the stuff is already going to be off? Someone please let me know.


Thanks

taytoe

Where your head should be sent out to be pressure checked and possibly surfaced; 5 thousandths is the most I've been seeing should be taken off so if it's been done you might need to have the clearance on combustion chamber to piston checked see how much room you are working with before it goes out.

That head gasket kit should cover you as long as the gears stay on the cams, those bolts are non-reuse. Maybe grab a thermostat as well just since it's right there and a cheap part.

For your upgrade plans would be a good time since the intake manifold will be off and I/C system drained, if you are changing pulleys maybe just verify it's something they are setup for. You might want a new supercharger gasket as well but they do hold up pretty well.

Food poisoning so not thinking that great right now.

GreenStang

Should I have them replace any timing stuff while they're at it?

GreenStang

Should I have them replace any timing stuff while they're at it?

GreenStang

I ordered the ZZP Stage 3 kit to have them install while they replace the head gasket. I got the 2.9 clear pulley, #60 Siemens injectors, GM Shorter belt, option b, and dual pass. I already have the stealth HE and ZZP 3" CAI. Car should wake up some now hopefully.

GreenStang

Okay here's a list of parts I have bought:


CED Head Gasket kit
CED Deluxe Timing Kit
CED ARP Head Studs
ZZP Stage 3 kit without HE since I already have the Stealth
Option B
Dual Pass
Water Pump


This car should be ready to rock and roll after all of this work. The head is at the machine shop now, and I have to go pick the PCM up from the shop to ship it to ZZP so they can send all of my parts out to me.

GreenStang

CONCLUSION:

The head was warped. Not sure if previous owner overheated it or over torqued it. It's also a possibility that if the previous owner did have the head worked at a machine shop that the machine shop lied about doing the work to the previous owner.


The machine shop that my local napa service center used pressure tested the head, installed new valve seals, and resurfaced it. Some timing components were worn, and that all was replaced with the CED timing kit. Car is back together now and ready to go. I am going to pick the car up tomorrow!

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

Awesome, hope that solves your issue. That's the shitty part about cleaning up after someone else's mechanical work, you never know what they messed up or neglected.

RedLined

That sucks. I figured it was head gasket related but never thought it would be an issue with it not being fixed right the first time. Never understand why people do that. Hope this means you get it running without any issues for a good while.

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

Glad you got it man

T-fog

Congrats man that's Good to hear.

GreenStang

Thanks everyone. I took the car on vacation this past weekend, which was about a 180-200 mile round trip. I didn't add any coolant and it didn't use any coolant. The car never even got over 200 degrees and I sat in heavy traffic even with the AC on. The stage 3 kit really woke up the car it has a lot more power now!

Snail_SS

iTrader: (3)

Great to hear man

GreenStang

Update:

Car has been losing coolant since I've got it back from shop apparently. I have been adding coolant to the car since I've got it back from the shop, but I was thinking maybe it was just bleeding some air off. I've continued having to add coolant and it's definitely not air taking this much coolant and taking this long. Here's a list of everything that's been replaced:

Head gasket
Intake gasket
Dual pass
Overflow tank
Supercharger gasket
Timing components
Water pump
Head studs
Valve cover gasket
Option B tank added
ZZP Stage 3 kit

Just to recap: The head was warped pretty bad and was not smooth and that was deemed to be the cause of my coolant loss. The head was reworked but I'm still losing coolant.

There is no sign of leaks anywhere external and I took it to the shop the other day and sat there watching he mechanics look over it and they put a pressure test on it which held fine for the 30 mins I was there. I had asked them when they had the car all apart if everything else looked good the pistons and stuff which I was told yes. Now the only thing that anyone is thinking that could be wrong is a cracked cylinder sleeve. The car runs great but does have a rough idle sometimes (surging) but I think that's due to the throttle body needing cleaned possibly? The car does not over heat it runs 180-196 with the AC on full blast even if it's 96 degrees here in Tennessee. The shop is wanting to drain the oil out into a clean bucket (because I'm not ready for an oil change I still have like 90% oil life left) and put the pressure test on it overnight and pull the plugs to look for a spray of coolant. They are going to do this free of charge. I also told the mechanic we could take a sample of oil for me to send to BlackStone Labs again for another analysis. All in all, this sucks I have 3 thousand dollars worth of parts and labor in this car and I still have the coolant loss problem. If it is a cylinder sleeve I am not going to pay for them to tear it all the way back down to that again. I guess if it's a cylinder sleeve as bad as I know people hate the stuff I'm putting some freaking stop leak in it and driving it until I graduate college in December and I guess I'll send the car down the road then.

Sorry for the lengthy post. Does anyone have any ideas???

GreenStang

Any ideas?

GreenStang

Any ideas?

exninja

iTrader: (1)

Let's see what those tests say first.

GreenStang

Shop pressure tested the coolant system overnight and no leakage at all. Pulled the plugs and no coolant in cylinders at all. However, their is coolant in the oil. The shop told me about the porous block issue which I tried to explain that is the turbo models but they insist that mine is porous as well more than likely. I recommended them pulling the oil pan and looking at the bottom end cylinder sleeves, which they're going to do and give me a call back this afternoon. I believe I will put some kind of sealer in the coolant system and hope for the best. Does anyone have a better recommendation?

exninja

iTrader: (1)

If it's an aluminum casting, esp foam, porous block is always possible. It's just much less likely on the LSJ than the 08-09 LNF. Mine also didn't leak when cold but peed uncontrollably when warmed up. If it works the additive would be a bandaid, and like all bandaids it is temporary.

GreenStang

Well they looked at it and said they'd have to remove the subframe to remove the oil pan so it would be 2 hours of work and asked if I really wanted to do that to which I said nah we already know something's wrong in there and if I replace it then I will just buy a brand new Gen 3 short block anyways.

He's going to call Chevy and ask what the best sealer is for now and I'll have the car back tomorrow. Anyone know of a good sealer? I really like the car but another 2,000 dollars for a ZZP Gen 3 short block and then labor to put it in would be probably another grand. I'm wondering if I shouldn't just send this thing down the road... Any recommendations on what to do and what kind of sealer?

Thanks

GreenStang

Shop put sealer in it and I've drove it some and haven't noticed it losing coolant "yet". I'm thinking about selling the car and buying a truck though. I mean if I keep the car and it blows up within 500 miles I'm out of a lot of money. But heck the car could run for another 30,000 miles too. What is usual selling price for a car like mine fully modded?

GreenStang

I'm just going to keep the car. The car has every option on it that I could ever want, it's in great shape, I love the car, I've got a lot of money in the car, and it has good hp and great gas mileage. I look at it this way: If I were to sell the car I'd have to put cash with it to get a nice truck, and if I keep the car and the motor blows up then I can spend that extra cash and buy a new Gen 3 short block and have a completely new motor.

I was wondering could this coolant leak be inside the oil cooler? If so, is there a way to tell it's the oil cooler? How hard is the oil cooler to change and how much are they?

Thanks