Limp Mode Need Help!!!!
#1
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Limp Mode Need Help!!!!
I finished the install on the intense kit yesterday and when i took it out for a test, it was fine for first gear and part of second then the DIC said "ENGINE DISABLE", "POWER REDUCED", and it shut off, then it wouldn't start, so i disconnect the battery reset the computer and ran the codes, now it runs but in limp mode. and everytime i clear the codes they come back as soon as i turn the key on without even starting it. the manuel says take to dealer and they ain't open untill tomorrow, everything is hooked up no leaks.
It also says low coolant
ANY HELP IS GOOD
It also says low coolant
ANY HELP IS GOOD
#4
That I don't know. Post #185 is where he talked about it, youould always PM him to see if he can help.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...&page=10&pp=20
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...&page=10&pp=20
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Originally Posted by Cobalt_Supercharged
Also check the wiring instructions. I guess the picture shows the one wire connected to the wrong lead, but the written instructions have it correct.
which wire, it was all plug and play, i didn't have to wire anything.
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Originally Posted by Clmbngfrk18
this is kinda stupid but that can happen if you gas cap is loose it doesnt hurt to check right
just checked its good
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P1516 Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module Throttle Actuator Position Performance -PCM
P2101 Throttle Actuator Position Performance -PCM
those are the codes
P2101 Throttle Actuator Position Performance -PCM
those are the codes
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what does limp mode sound like mine sounds like a go cart misfiring really bad i heard it runs on 2 cylinders when on limp mode i just want to make sure i didn't blow it,
when it happen there was no oil leak, gas, coolant, or smoke so i don't think its blown, is that what limp mode is suppose to sound like
when it happen there was no oil leak, gas, coolant, or smoke so i don't think its blown, is that what limp mode is suppose to sound like
#12
i'll check in the service manual in a bit to look up the codes, see if i can give you a bit more information on them. ellicott city, does that mean that it'll be going to miller brothers?
edit: have you checked with intense yet to see if they have any information on people experiencing similar problems with the kit?
edit: have you checked with intense yet to see if they have any information on people experiencing similar problems with the kit?
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Originally Posted by flobeelicious
i'll check in the service manual in a bit to look up the codes, see if i can give you a bit more information on them. ellicott city, does that mean that it'll be going to miller brothers?
edit: have you checked with intense yet to see if they have any information on people experiencing similar problems with the kit?
edit: have you checked with intense yet to see if they have any information on people experiencing similar problems with the kit?
yeah and they did my oil change on friday so i might get lucky and be like what did you do to my car
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Originally Posted by sunfirejoe
holyshit i hope thigns work out for you man real soon
thanks i might be the 1st to have this type of problem after the intense kit
#18
Originally Posted by SS4LIfe
I finished the install on the intense kit yesterday and when i took it out for a test, it was fine for first gear and part of second then the DIC said "ENGINE DISABLE", "POWER REDUCED", and it shut off, then it wouldn't start, so i disconnect the battery reset the computer and ran the codes, now it runs but in limp mode. and everytime i clear the codes they come back as soon as i turn the key on without even starting it. the manuel says take to dealer and they ain't open untill tomorrow, everything is hooked up no leaks.
It also says low coolant
ANY HELP IS GOOD
It also says low coolant
ANY HELP IS GOOD
my car is in limp mode also, but i only have an intake and a 3.0 pulley,
how do you get the codes without going to the dealer?
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Originally Posted by NJCOBALTSS
my car is in limp mode also, but i only have an intake and a 3.0 pulley,
how do you get the codes without going to the dealer?
how do you get the codes without going to the dealer?
i have a code scanner, plug it into your obd 2 plug, does you run like mine.
#21
DTC P1516
the commanded throttle position is compared to the actual throttle position based on accelerator pedal position and possibly other limiting factors. both values should be within a calibrated range of each other. the PCM continuously monitors the commanded and actual values and sets DTC if values are greater than calibrated range.
conditions for run: ignition on, ignition voltage >8 volts, system not in battery save mode, engine running, dtc P0068 not set.
conditions for setting: difference between preditced and actual throttle position is out of calibration range >.5 seconds
action taken when DTC sets: light, records failure, control module commands TAC system to operate in reduced engine power mode, message on DIC, under certain conditions engine may shut off.
PCM will clear light after 3 consecutive drive trips where diagnostic runs and passes.
DTC P2101 seems nearly identical to me.
most of the tests to verify this don't really seem like anything that you'd probably want to do it at home. i think if i were you, i'd take it up there to them (and uninstall the kit, if possible, just to try to save yourself some hassle if its a warranty repair that could be remotely related to it). overall though, they definitely seem to be more competent than most of the dealers in the baltimore area, who i wouldn't trust to be within 100 feet of my car. and there service manager has been a pretty good guy to deal with, at least for me.
the commanded throttle position is compared to the actual throttle position based on accelerator pedal position and possibly other limiting factors. both values should be within a calibrated range of each other. the PCM continuously monitors the commanded and actual values and sets DTC if values are greater than calibrated range.
conditions for run: ignition on, ignition voltage >8 volts, system not in battery save mode, engine running, dtc P0068 not set.
conditions for setting: difference between preditced and actual throttle position is out of calibration range >.5 seconds
action taken when DTC sets: light, records failure, control module commands TAC system to operate in reduced engine power mode, message on DIC, under certain conditions engine may shut off.
PCM will clear light after 3 consecutive drive trips where diagnostic runs and passes.
DTC P2101 seems nearly identical to me.
most of the tests to verify this don't really seem like anything that you'd probably want to do it at home. i think if i were you, i'd take it up there to them (and uninstall the kit, if possible, just to try to save yourself some hassle if its a warranty repair that could be remotely related to it). overall though, they definitely seem to be more competent than most of the dealers in the baltimore area, who i wouldn't trust to be within 100 feet of my car. and there service manager has been a pretty good guy to deal with, at least for me.
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Originally Posted by flobeelicious
DTC P1516
the commanded throttle position is compared to the actual throttle position based on accelerator pedal position and possibly other limiting factors. both values should be within a calibrated range of each other. the PCM continuously monitors the commanded and actual values and sets DTC if values are greater than calibrated range.
conditions for run: ignition on, ignition voltage >8 volts, system not in battery save mode, engine running, dtc P0068 not set.
conditions for setting: difference between preditced and actual throttle position is out of calibration range >.5 seconds
action taken when DTC sets: light, records failure, control module commands TAC system to operate in reduced engine power mode, message on DIC, under certain conditions engine may shut off.
PCM will clear light after 3 consecutive drive trips where diagnostic runs and passes.
DTC P2101 seems nearly identical to me.
most of the tests to verify this don't really seem like anything that you'd probably want to do it at home. i think if i were you, i'd take it up there to them (and uninstall the kit, if possible, just to try to save yourself some hassle if its a warranty repair that could be remotely related to it). overall though, they definitely seem to be more competent than most of the dealers in the baltimore area, who i wouldn't trust to be within 100 feet of my car. and there service manager has been a pretty good guy to deal with, at least for me.
the commanded throttle position is compared to the actual throttle position based on accelerator pedal position and possibly other limiting factors. both values should be within a calibrated range of each other. the PCM continuously monitors the commanded and actual values and sets DTC if values are greater than calibrated range.
conditions for run: ignition on, ignition voltage >8 volts, system not in battery save mode, engine running, dtc P0068 not set.
conditions for setting: difference between preditced and actual throttle position is out of calibration range >.5 seconds
action taken when DTC sets: light, records failure, control module commands TAC system to operate in reduced engine power mode, message on DIC, under certain conditions engine may shut off.
PCM will clear light after 3 consecutive drive trips where diagnostic runs and passes.
DTC P2101 seems nearly identical to me.
most of the tests to verify this don't really seem like anything that you'd probably want to do it at home. i think if i were you, i'd take it up there to them (and uninstall the kit, if possible, just to try to save yourself some hassle if its a warranty repair that could be remotely related to it). overall though, they definitely seem to be more competent than most of the dealers in the baltimore area, who i wouldn't trust to be within 100 feet of my car. and there service manager has been a pretty good guy to deal with, at least for me.
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Last summer my SS/SC went into limp mode and would not go away! Drove it to the dealer and they fixed it. It was the TPS Sensor and it came loose as I was accelerating (hard). So they put it back in and havent had a probelm since. If it is the sensor it's not going to go away until it's plugged in properly
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ITS FIXED THANKS EVERYBODY
Well what happen is a piece of rubber was stuck in the intake at the throttle and it couldn't close.
i know you are thinking where the rubber came from. Well i changed my spark plugs and i had a crappy spark plug puller and the rubber boot got stuck around the spark plug so i got that off and handed it to my friend and he was playing with it and then he dropped it into the engine bay, then he couldn't find it but no big deal right so i finished up and thats why it went into limp mode, actually one of the guys from this forum was the one who fixed the car for me. carbombss thanks
Well what happen is a piece of rubber was stuck in the intake at the throttle and it couldn't close.
i know you are thinking where the rubber came from. Well i changed my spark plugs and i had a crappy spark plug puller and the rubber boot got stuck around the spark plug so i got that off and handed it to my friend and he was playing with it and then he dropped it into the engine bay, then he couldn't find it but no big deal right so i finished up and thats why it went into limp mode, actually one of the guys from this forum was the one who fixed the car for me. carbombss thanks