Low Coolant Problem
11-15-2011, 04:09 AM
#1
Low Coolant Problem
Hey Guys Please Help I've been having problems with the car it keeps saying low coolant everytime i start her up or when I'm up hill the dash starts flashing Low coolant. I've been trying to look it up saw a few thing about it. I know it could be my IC Pump does anyone have the part number for that. I've been checking my coolant it has plenty i notice that my Coolant temp stays steady at around 180 when crusing on the HYW. Now when I'm at a stop idle spikes to around 220 but stays around there till i start driving again doesnt go over that. Does Anyone else having or had this problem? What was your solution? Any help woud be Greatly appreciated Thank.
11-15-2011, 05:06 AM
#2
Senior Member
the 06 sensors seem to be faulty working half the time. did you even check the fluid level? or see if the rad hose is swollen? or did you just not open ur hood and posted a thread?
your coolant temps are normal.
ic pump has nothing to do with your coolant
your coolant temps are normal.
ic pump has nothing to do with your coolant
11-15-2011, 05:59 AM
#3
Fluid level are good check them everyday almost coolant is full so is the resvior. Checked underneath the other day to see if anything looked different nothing no hose swollen or anything. Dont know what it could be. When i start the car shouldnt the fluids be flowing when the cap is off of the radiator when rev'd?
11-15-2011, 10:24 AM
#4
Fluid level are good check them everyday almost coolant is full so is the resvior. Checked underneath the other day to see if anything looked different nothing no hose swollen or anything. Dont know what it could be. When i start the car shouldnt the fluids be flowing when the cap is off of the radiator when rev'd?
11-15-2011, 10:44 AM
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similar problem: i know my coolant is low, mine is getting up around 220 the entire time i'm driving, this is normal? i just had the thermostat replaced at the dealership too
11-15-2011, 04:37 PM
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11-15-2011, 08:20 PM
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Had this problem recently....
I researched on here and didn't find much that helped me. Some people had porous blocks, some people had blown head gaskets, some people had bad water pumps, but I.....I had a cracked radiator.....and didnt know it.
Porous Block:
I don't know a whole lot about it, but I know if you got one.....it sucks. From what I understand, it allows your coolant to travel through the metal in your block and get burnt up in the combustion chambers (CSS chime in?). Cure is, well, to get a new block/engine
Head Gasket:
Your head gasket is allowing, once again, coolant to enter your combustion chamber and get burnt up. YOU WILL MOST LIKELY SMELL THE COOLANT BEING BURNT, if not see the smokey exhaust when you run the car. This is a relatively cheap fix if you do it yourself. If not, labor could be a bitch (not for sure never had it done for me)
Water Pump:
I saw a post on here (I'll try to find it), where the guy had a few loose bolts on his water pump cover allowing coolant to leak from the pump. This could be a gradual leak that evaporates before it accumulates enough to leave a "wet spot" on the ground. So if you think this could be your culprit, check your water pump.
Cracked Radiator:
Most of the time, you know when you crack the radiator. Its usually caused by hitting something or running over a large bump/pothole WAY TOO FAST (ask me how I know). USUALLY, you will see the crack/deformation that is causing the problem and acts as a dead giveaway. Catch is, if you run into a situation like mine, where the crack developed between the aluminum core and the plastic end-tank. You may not get any of the above symptoms. You will lose coolant, but it will happen so slowly (initially) that you won't know where its coming from. At first mine didn't leave "wet spots" but after time (and letting it sit for about a week) a significant spot developed at one side of the rad. Best way to check for a crack like this. Is to fill your overflow tank to the cold fill line (don't do it immediately after shutting the car off, but it helps if the car isn't completely cooled down), and leave the tank cap off. Let the car sit for a little while and see if a spot develops. If there is a spot, or coolant level is significantly lower, crawl under the car and see if you can't spot where the dripping is coming from.....and VWALLLAH! There's your leak.
Hope all of this was helpful. I let mine go way too long and had some close calls a few times. I actually had my water temp warning light come on once.....my butthole was about that big ->o when I saw my coolant temp above 250 while driving. Long story short, thoroughly investigate the issue and find it before it gets too bad, and ALWAYS....ALWAYS! keep your coolant topped off if you're losing it from an unknown source.
Happy Hunting haha!
I researched on here and didn't find much that helped me. Some people had porous blocks, some people had blown head gaskets, some people had bad water pumps, but I.....I had a cracked radiator.....and didnt know it.
Porous Block:
I don't know a whole lot about it, but I know if you got one.....it sucks. From what I understand, it allows your coolant to travel through the metal in your block and get burnt up in the combustion chambers (CSS chime in?). Cure is, well, to get a new block/engine
Head Gasket:
Your head gasket is allowing, once again, coolant to enter your combustion chamber and get burnt up. YOU WILL MOST LIKELY SMELL THE COOLANT BEING BURNT, if not see the smokey exhaust when you run the car. This is a relatively cheap fix if you do it yourself. If not, labor could be a bitch (not for sure never had it done for me)
Water Pump:
I saw a post on here (I'll try to find it), where the guy had a few loose bolts on his water pump cover allowing coolant to leak from the pump. This could be a gradual leak that evaporates before it accumulates enough to leave a "wet spot" on the ground. So if you think this could be your culprit, check your water pump.
Cracked Radiator:
Most of the time, you know when you crack the radiator. Its usually caused by hitting something or running over a large bump/pothole WAY TOO FAST (ask me how I know). USUALLY, you will see the crack/deformation that is causing the problem and acts as a dead giveaway. Catch is, if you run into a situation like mine, where the crack developed between the aluminum core and the plastic end-tank. You may not get any of the above symptoms. You will lose coolant, but it will happen so slowly (initially) that you won't know where its coming from. At first mine didn't leave "wet spots" but after time (and letting it sit for about a week) a significant spot developed at one side of the rad. Best way to check for a crack like this. Is to fill your overflow tank to the cold fill line (don't do it immediately after shutting the car off, but it helps if the car isn't completely cooled down), and leave the tank cap off. Let the car sit for a little while and see if a spot develops. If there is a spot, or coolant level is significantly lower, crawl under the car and see if you can't spot where the dripping is coming from.....and VWALLLAH! There's your leak.
Hope all of this was helpful. I let mine go way too long and had some close calls a few times. I actually had my water temp warning light come on once.....my butthole was about that big ->o when I saw my coolant temp above 250 while driving. Long story short, thoroughly investigate the issue and find it before it gets too bad, and ALWAYS....ALWAYS! keep your coolant topped off if you're losing it from an unknown source.
Happy Hunting haha!
11-16-2011, 03:59 AM
#14
Had this problem recently....
I researched on here and didn't find much that helped me. Some people had porous blocks, some people had blown head gaskets, some people had bad water pumps, but I.....I had a cracked radiator.....and didnt know it.
Porous Block:
I don't know a whole lot about it, but I know if you got one.....it sucks. From what I understand, it allows your coolant to travel through the metal in your block and get burnt up in the combustion chambers (CSS chime in?). Cure is, well, to get a new block/engine
Head Gasket:
Your head gasket is allowing, once again, coolant to enter your combustion chamber and get burnt up. YOU WILL MOST LIKELY SMELL THE COOLANT BEING BURNT, if not see the smokey exhaust when you run the car. This is a relatively cheap fix if you do it yourself. If not, labor could be a bitch (not for sure never had it done for me)
Water Pump:
I saw a post on here (I'll try to find it), where the guy had a few loose bolts on his water pump cover allowing coolant to leak from the pump. This could be a gradual leak that evaporates before it accumulates enough to leave a "wet spot" on the ground. So if you think this could be your culprit, check your water pump.
Cracked Radiator:
Most of the time, you know when you crack the radiator. Its usually caused by hitting something or running over a large bump/pothole WAY TOO FAST (ask me how I know). USUALLY, you will see the crack/deformation that is causing the problem and acts as a dead giveaway. Catch is, if you run into a situation like mine, where the crack developed between the aluminum core and the plastic end-tank. You may not get any of the above symptoms. You will lose coolant, but it will happen so slowly (initially) that you won't know where its coming from. At first mine didn't leave "wet spots" but after time (and letting it sit for about a week) a significant spot developed at one side of the rad. Best way to check for a crack like this. Is to fill your overflow tank to the cold fill line (don't do it immediately after shutting the car off, but it helps if the car isn't completely cooled down), and leave the tank cap off. Let the car sit for a little while and see if a spot develops. If there is a spot, or coolant level is significantly lower, crawl under the car and see if you can't spot where the dripping is coming from.....and VWALLLAH! There's your leak.
Hope all of this was helpful. I let mine go way too long and had some close calls a few times. I actually had my water temp warning light come on once.....my butthole was about that big ->o when I saw my coolant temp above 250 while driving. Long story short, thoroughly investigate the issue and find it before it gets too bad, and ALWAYS....ALWAYS! keep your coolant topped off if you're losing it from an unknown source.
Happy Hunting haha!
I researched on here and didn't find much that helped me. Some people had porous blocks, some people had blown head gaskets, some people had bad water pumps, but I.....I had a cracked radiator.....and didnt know it.
Porous Block:
I don't know a whole lot about it, but I know if you got one.....it sucks. From what I understand, it allows your coolant to travel through the metal in your block and get burnt up in the combustion chambers (CSS chime in?). Cure is, well, to get a new block/engine
Head Gasket:
Your head gasket is allowing, once again, coolant to enter your combustion chamber and get burnt up. YOU WILL MOST LIKELY SMELL THE COOLANT BEING BURNT, if not see the smokey exhaust when you run the car. This is a relatively cheap fix if you do it yourself. If not, labor could be a bitch (not for sure never had it done for me)
Water Pump:
I saw a post on here (I'll try to find it), where the guy had a few loose bolts on his water pump cover allowing coolant to leak from the pump. This could be a gradual leak that evaporates before it accumulates enough to leave a "wet spot" on the ground. So if you think this could be your culprit, check your water pump.
Cracked Radiator:
Most of the time, you know when you crack the radiator. Its usually caused by hitting something or running over a large bump/pothole WAY TOO FAST (ask me how I know). USUALLY, you will see the crack/deformation that is causing the problem and acts as a dead giveaway. Catch is, if you run into a situation like mine, where the crack developed between the aluminum core and the plastic end-tank. You may not get any of the above symptoms. You will lose coolant, but it will happen so slowly (initially) that you won't know where its coming from. At first mine didn't leave "wet spots" but after time (and letting it sit for about a week) a significant spot developed at one side of the rad. Best way to check for a crack like this. Is to fill your overflow tank to the cold fill line (don't do it immediately after shutting the car off, but it helps if the car isn't completely cooled down), and leave the tank cap off. Let the car sit for a little while and see if a spot develops. If there is a spot, or coolant level is significantly lower, crawl under the car and see if you can't spot where the dripping is coming from.....and VWALLLAH! There's your leak.
Hope all of this was helpful. I let mine go way too long and had some close calls a few times. I actually had my water temp warning light come on once.....my butthole was about that big ->o when I saw my coolant temp above 250 while driving. Long story short, thoroughly investigate the issue and find it before it gets too bad, and ALWAYS....ALWAYS! keep your coolant topped off if you're losing it from an unknown source.
Happy Hunting haha!
11-16-2011, 08:20 PM
#15
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The IC system and the Engine Coolant System are two SEPARATE sytems... so if you're losing coolant out of your reservoir, you're either burning it or leaking it. IC system leaks would be seen in high iat's, empty filler neck, and, if you had really-mega-super-accurate hearing, excess IC pump noise
11-17-2011, 11:55 AM
#16
The IC system and the Engine Coolant System are two SEPARATE sytems... so if you're losing coolant out of your reservoir, you're either burning it or leaking it. IC system leaks would be seen in high iat's, empty filler neck, and, if you had really-mega-super-accurate hearing, excess IC pump noise
Last edited by Murdered SS; 11-17-2011 at 12:02 PM.
11-17-2011, 07:58 PM
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If the DIC is saying "LOW COOLANT", it's referring to your ENGINE coolant....not IC coolant.
Now, if you're getting low coolant messages, and your reservoir is at the cold fill line when the car is cooled down, the sensor is probably bad
Now, if you're getting low coolant messages, and your reservoir is at the cold fill line when the car is cooled down, the sensor is probably bad
12-12-2011, 12:48 PM
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I dont agree with 220 being normal temp. My car runs at 168 no higher no lower. But anyways, I am getting Low Coolant message when I start up my car. I am about .5" below the fill line, I went to add more coolant to the resevoir, all though I cannot for the life of me open the resevoir. I dont know if it is because it is so cold, but I broke my whole coolant resevoir off just trying to loosen the lid...
Last edited by Lone1305; 12-12-2011 at 12:59 PM.
12-12-2011, 08:21 PM
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I dont agree with 220 being normal temp. My car runs at 168 no higher no lower. But anyways, I am getting Low Coolant message when I start up my car. I am about .5" below the fill line, I went to add more coolant to the resevoir, all though I cannot for the life of me open the resevoir. I dont know if it is because it is so cold, but I broke my whole coolant resevoir off just trying to loosen the lid...
As for the low coolant message, .5" below cold fill will give you "low coolant on the DIC" its close to the threshold, trust me I know, but if you're not losing any coolant, and you know its that close, I personally wouldn't worry about it. Sure, it gets annoying, but its not going to hurt anything.
BTW IIRC we have 180F thermostats, so if your coolant temp doesn't even break 170, you might have a bad thermostat.
12-12-2011, 08:51 PM
#24
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not sure if ours do but I know lots of coolant overflow tanks have a sensor at the bottom of them....they will say low coolant when they go bad...check for wires underneath your overflow
12-14-2011, 05:54 AM
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