Silver-Bullet

So I am looking at buying a higher milage (112,000) 2006 cobalt ss. The car is in average shape completely stock. Has newer front breaks, good tires recent oil change. THe guy bought it with 70,000 from the local dealer supposedly and has had it for over 2 years now and used it a dd (driving round trip 80 miles a day). It could use a good detailing I would say. He want 6500 but said would do 6. What are your guys thoughts? Are these car trouble when they get this kind of milage? Note that the check engine light is on but he is going to get it checked out. What should I look for/at when looking at the car? What should I be worried about? What should I plan on replacing for preventive mesures? Just looking for ideas and opinons from everyone so dont be shy! This is my first bolt just looking for a good dd and gas milage as my truck drinks a little much for dd. Also back breaks may need replacing in the future. Let me know guys! Thanks!

emiller

Pretty much anything can top 100k these days even with poor care.

Of course actually check it before you buy it.

Silver-Bullet

What should I look for? I am new to these cars

turbosmart4

iTrader: (18)

Well... U might want to replace the supercharger oil and coupler if its never been changed..also check the ic pump... The gas pump will eventually go out in most o6 lsj but most of the time chevy dealer replaces it free of charge. I would go somewhere with him to get it diagnosed first. Autozone maybe?

emiller

Find out for yourself what the cel is for. Could be minor or major. Just dont trust him to tell you as it could greatly affect the price.

Check the normal stuff. Fluid leaks, drives straight, stops straight, weird tire wear, good hoses & belts, parts that are much cleaner than surrounding parts, ask for service records, weird noises & vibrations, etc. Lower trim levels have control arm bushing wear problems.

Ss/na or ss/sc?

Silver-Bullet

Ok I did ask him if he has ever changed and no he hasen't. How do you check the ic pump? Yea I am going to try to go somewhere with him to get it checked. Are timing belts a concerning issue on these?
Yes is sc

emiller

Ic pump has probably already been replaced at least once. Take off the ic cap and see if you see coolant flowing.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-0l...ing-ok-234793/

Lsj has a timing chain.

turbosmart4

iTrader: (18)

Timing chain tensioner gets loose over time and it is a common issue with these balts . Make sure you don't hear any clicking noises u think might come from engine area when idling or speeding....

2010Cobalt

Just be aware you are buying a USED SPORTS CAR with over 100k. Any vehicle over 100k will need parts replaced. 112k is 112k no matter what. Alternator, starter, water pump, radiator, brakes, fuel and brake lines, etc. Things break. Don't be mad if the car gives you trouble at first, replace broken with performance . This could be a very nice and fun car. Just do it right.

06SS ALL DAY

If its a g85 deffff get it. My g85 is at 108. The only thing I had to replace was the tob. So I did the clutch while I was in there. The lsj motor is stronger than the lnf also so the life expectancy is long. Def check the ic pump. You can knock 250$ off the price if it's not working. Just start the car. Take off the cap that is directly in front of the blower and see if the fluid is moving along. Do not worry it will not blow hot fluid in your face. It's only purpose is to cool the supercharged which you can probably touch the fluid with your hand. Zerrrrrro pressure. It'll rise a bit when you take the cap off but go back Dow

southal cobalt

iTrader: (3)

almost everyone will disagree with me, but truthfully, on a stock lsj, the ic pump isnt essential. the stock pulley on no cooling wont kill your motor. trust me. i ran my car without an ic pump through 3 alabama summers. and i run the crap out of my car. no issues either. on top of that, its an easily replacable part. so even if it isnt running, that shouldnt steer you from buying the car. although, if i were you, i would not let the dealer replace it. they want like 600 for an ic pump last time i checked. and that isnt even including labor lol. zzp will sell you one for 100 $

but everything already mentioned should be checked into.
also though, if he has got 112 k miles on a stock clutch, its gonna need replacing soon. thats probably not the case, but thats one thing id look out for.

one way to check a clutch is to put it in a higher gear at a lower rpm and floor it. the clutch will slip if its on its way out. you could put it in 4th at 40ish mph and put the gas to the floor... if the car accelerates slowly and feels normal, then the clutch is holding up fine. but if it runs up rpms and doesnt accelerate, then settles back down and accelerates from there, then it slipped. hopefully that made sense and maybe you already knew that. but on any high mileage sports car, id always check the clutch.
my clutch started slipping on me at about 50 k miles. but thats because i learned how to drive a manual on this car. and whoever had it before me had it repoed, so they probably wore it out a bit too lol

Silver-Bullet

Great info so far guys!! Thanks so much! Got another question whats the difference between a cobalt with ricaro I think ( this car has) and just the regular leather ss ones? any model difference?

How do I know if its a g85?

Gelladuga69

iTrader: (4)

I have 155k on my 06 LSJ and it still runs strong, but the engine has been properly maintained.
Checking SC oil/coupler isn't need. I'm still on stock both of those at my mileage and the blower is fine.
I agree with southal cobalt, and that a working IC pump isn't need off a 100k mile car.
YOU CAN USE BOTH OF THOSE POINTS ABOVE TO KNOCK DOWN THE PRICE.

Definitely get that CEL checked out. Hell, if you want, get pay $100 and get the car looked at by a mechanic as well.
I wouldn't worry about the timing chain tensioner either.. it only affects a group of Cobalts.
Again, I'm at 155k on the original one from the factory and no ticking bs.
Also, never heard of the fuel pump going out either.

Other than wear and tear stuff, the LSJ is a strong engine that will run a long time.
Pick it up and get a good professional detail for it and if it's not broke don't fix it..
Although I would do smaller maintenance stuff right after buying it. Plugs, fuel/air filter, etc.

G85 RPO can be found in the trunk sticker. Easier way is factory Recaro racing seats. G85 also includes a LSD in the trans.

emiller

Someone on here did run a lsj over 200k miles before it was wrecked in an accident.

turbosmart4

iTrader: (18)

Appearently u disagree in every single thing I posted.
1. The coupler gets loose over time specially if you pulley down, oil stops lubricating over time and bearings fail.
2.a good working ic pump helps keep your iat's down preventing detonation.
3.checking the tensioner would be a SMART thing to do if you don't want to face problems down the road, like you said, it only affects some cobalts but I've seen these fail mostly on o6 cobalts......

user 72239

iTrader: (4)

lol @ LSJ being stronger than LNF

Check Timing chain tensioner
Check IC Pump, not a huge deal but it will more than likely be broken

small **** like that. The other posts are spot on

/thread

Gelladuga69

iTrader: (4)

No offense, but I'm telling him what my experiences are since I have a higher mileage LSJ than he's going to buy. I have a 155k miles and most things are still stock on my car.

Eaton says the m62 is a sealed unit and that the unit should last the life of the engine. Is that always the case? No, especially if you pulley down. The car's all stock. He'll come to that obstacle soon enough, if/when he wants to start modding. Stock pulley won't be a problem.

Yes, a good working IC pump keep's iat down. Let's face it though, just like southal cobalt said, on a stock pulley this shouldn't really be a problem. Even I have a broken IC pump now, and with summer temps floating around 100, the car still runs fine. Is it pulling timing? Yeah, but it still runs perfectly fine. Another thing he could do after he buys the car that's up to his digression.

Checking the tensioner would be a smart thing to do, yes. But there was only a group of cobalts manufactured at a certain time that had a problem with them. His could be one of them. But like I said, if he doesn't hear it on start up. It's probably not broken. And if it's not broke, don't fix it. 155k miles on mine and no symptoms whatsoever.

turbosmart4

iTrader: (18)

There are threads talking about everything I posted saying these are common problems, even the fuel pump is considered a common issue.gm recognizes is and will change it free of charge in most cases depending the state u live in.

Silver-Bullet

Even after 100k they will replace it for free? Is WI one of them?

Gelladuga69

iTrader: (4)

That's up to the dealership..
AFAIK it has only a handful of states, like 3..
IIRC, it was a leaky fuel pump. Not many cars suffer from it. It's pretty isolated.

Silver-Bullet

So when I looking at the car is there anything that really sticks out to shown if the car have a beat the living out of it? lol

2010Cobalt

Yeah, it has 112k lololololol

turbosmart4

iTrader: (18)

I would ask ur nearest dealer if they are included.
They freplaced mine a week ago at 99k lol
Also, make sure cooling fans kick in without having to turn on the ac.

Silver-Bullet

So got the code ran with him today and it turned out to be the blade fan relay. The fan is always on even once you take the key out it stays on for like 30 secs. So probably not a big deal. Anyone know kind of relay it is? I would like to pick one up on way to buy it to see if it fixes the problem. Operating temp fully warmed is 182-185 normal? 12 psi boost?

turbosmart4

iTrader: (18)

Everything is normal... Fans are suppose to stay on when car is off to help cool down engine