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Need help P2135, P2176, P0121

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Old 07-18-2011, 04:49 PM
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Need help P2135, P2176, P0121

hey guys i had a P2135 code pop up and went into reduced power mode, i cleared kept driving and it came on again, then i got a P2176 and a P0121 code

P2135 - TPS pedal position switch A/B voltage correlation
P2176 - TAC system idle positon not learned
P0121 - TPS position sensor A CKT range/perf

do you think i need a new thottle body, this is my third one already, last time at the dealer they it cost me like 500 dollars for one installed im not going to do that again

or do you think its the Pedal sensor, im hoping it is.

and does anybody have anylinks where i can get a tb or the pedal sensor for cheap
Old 07-18-2011, 06:25 PM
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I'm having the same exact issues. I'm getting P2138, P2135, and P2176. Brought it to the dealer and they replaced the throttle body, fixed the codes for a week and now they're back on. If you get this issue sorted out, please let me know what was done to fix it. It has been driving me nuts for months now...Also, I've replaced the pedal with a new one and that didn't help my situation either.
Old 07-18-2011, 06:38 PM
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did you replace the sensor too in the pedal? and are you tuned for the mods you have also, if you have any, the reason i say that is im tuned but ive done full exhaust and and all the cooling mods since then and im running a little rich, but thats about it so im wondering if it could be in the tune
Old 07-19-2011, 11:33 AM
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No. I'm not tuned or anything. I just have an LS (Not much point in tuning that lol) but I replaced the entire pedal assembly and it didn't fix my problem. I finally brought it to the dealer after I replaced the pedal and they put a new throttle body on for me (they said the sensors were bad in the old one) this fixed the problem for roughly a week and now its happening again.

I have read on here that some people get the dealer to flash their computer and this fixes the TPS and pedal position sensor codes, but I'm not %100.
Old 07-19-2011, 06:00 PM
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bumpy bump bump
Old 07-23-2011, 12:19 AM
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Bump, my car was throwing the P0121 code today as well as the P2135, P2138, and P2176.
Old 07-23-2011, 12:58 AM
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its usually the TB connection at fault if the TB only fixes for a week or so.

connections should be recrimped, soldered and treated with very high quality dielectric compound
Old 07-23-2011, 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Maven
its usually the TB connection at fault if the TB only fixes for a week or so.

connections should be recrimped, soldered and treated with very high quality dielectric compound
X2 above or the wires could be chaffed,follow them back as far as you can from the throttle body.Also check the wires leading to the pedal sensor,even just moving them around might help.
The sensors run on such low voltage any type of moisture in the connectors or loose fitting pin could cause the voltage to not be what the pcm is looking to see.
Old 07-23-2011, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Maven
its usually the TB connection at fault if the TB only fixes for a week or so.

connections should be recrimped, soldered and treated with very high quality dielectric compound
Hey Maven, I'll take a look at all the wires I can see again, but last time everything was connected good and there were no loose wires.
Old 07-23-2011, 01:04 PM
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its not usually something you can see. disconnect throttle body, coat the pins with a thin layer of dielectric grease and see what happens.
Old 07-24-2011, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Maven
its not usually something you can see. disconnect throttle body, coat the pins with a thin layer of dielectric grease and see what happens.
The tech at the dealer did that when they replaced the TB. I can still see the grease around the connection from when it was done. I'm going to take it back to the dealer tomorrow and see what they say. My extended warranty covers wiring well so hopefully they can sort it out finally.
Old 07-28-2011, 05:57 PM
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Bump, just replaced the entire pedal assembly with a brand new one and the issue still occurs. Maven, could it be an issue with the ECM? or possibly a faulty new throttle body? Should have the dealer try and swap out the ecm to see if that fixes the issue? Could it possibly have malfunctioned with the loose ground I had to the cooling fans?

EDIT: I'm thinking it might be the ecm also because I keep getting the Engine Disabled message displayed on the DIC. Last time this happened to me, the same dealer had to replace the computer in the car.

Last edited by tpete763; 07-28-2011 at 06:14 PM.
Old 07-28-2011, 06:13 PM
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Myself and one of my friends here in AZ are having the exact same problem you are... He has an LSJ and I'm a l61.... Any insight on this would be greatly helpful.
Old 07-28-2011, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Tundraboarder666
Myself and one of my friends here in AZ are having the exact same problem you are... He has an LSJ and I'm a l61.... Any insight on this would be greatly helpful.
As soon as I get this figured out I will let you guys know! I'm an L61 btw too.
Old 07-28-2011, 09:58 PM
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I coulda told you the throttle pedal wouldnt fix it. P2135 has nothing to do with the gas pedal.
Old 07-28-2011, 10:09 PM
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I'm cleaning my TB sensor right now checking for any kind of crappy wiring or loose connections we'll see if this does anything...
Old 07-28-2011, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Maven
I coulda told you the throttle pedal wouldnt fix it. P2135 has nothing to do with the gas pedal.
I'm getting more than the 2135 code though, I'm getting P2138 (pedal position sensor), P1516, and there was a P0102 thrown in once too. After i let off the gas and slow down the rpms jump from like 300-1200 before they stay constant around 1000. Its died on me a couple times while i was driving doing this too.

I figured if I replaced the pedal then that rules that problem out. The dealer just put a brand new throttle body on it, so that rules that out (unless its defective). So the only thing left I can think of is either wiring (which all looks fine to me) or the ECM. Now after driving I can't start my car again right away. once I turn it off and try to start it again I get the engine disabled message on the DIC. Would a battery low on volts cause problems like this too?
Old 07-29-2011, 03:46 AM
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Yup I used my old throttle body on mine and the problem still exists... So it's def not the throttle body that would cause this...
Old 07-29-2011, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Tundraboarder666
Yup I used my old throttle body on mine and the problem still exists... So it's def not the throttle body that would cause this...
Yeaa, I can't figure it out for the life of me. I'm narrowing it down to the computer though, the last time my engine was disabled the computer had to be replaced.
Old 08-03-2011, 10:53 AM
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Hey just letting you guys know I brought my car to the dealer yesterday. Got a call today and they told me that my battery wont hold a charge, it has a dead cell. They are putting a new battery in and seeing if anything else is wrong.
Old 08-03-2011, 04:29 PM
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So the dealer installed the new battery and I guess it still got a code for the gas pedal, so they replaced that with a brand new one too. Just got my car back and its running normal again, hopefully it lasts this time.
Old 08-03-2011, 04:45 PM
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Nice dude lets hope that this is the fix for it then. Keep us updated.
Old 08-05-2011, 02:49 PM
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So I picked my girlfriend up after work yesterday in NYC, and about 3/4 of the way there (I drove 15 miles max) I get the ENGINE POWER REDUCED again!!!! This is getting old quick, Its throwing the same 3 codes again (P2135, P2138, and P1516) looks like I'll be going back to the dealer again on Monday. So the problem wasn't the battery, gas pedal, or throttle body so far.
Old 08-05-2011, 03:51 PM
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Hmmmm well sorry that wasn't the fix but good information
Old 08-08-2011, 08:11 PM
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well since i first post i swapped throttle bodies with one i thought was bad, and it worked for a week, then went into reduced power mode again, then i took a look at all the wires going to the throttle body that they spliced into and it looks good, so i just retaped it all nice and tight and taped over the actual sensor part just in case the wires in their were coming loose and its been a week and no problems yet


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