New ECM under warranty..huh?! HELP
03-24-2011, 03:53 PM
#1
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New ECM under warranty..huh?! HELP
I am going to make this as short at possible, and please share your opinion on what I should do.
NOTE: My car has a drop in K&N, and a 3 inch catback.
Stock tune, stock everything else as far as performance.
I was driving down the highway, got off the exit in heavy traffic. Came to a stop a few cars back from the light, as it turned green the cars started moving and so did I (barely into 1st gear), then they slammed on the brakes I pushed the clutch and brake down as I normally would. Start moving again and the car wont hardly make boost in 1st and 2nd, but was fine in 3rd. Dropped my g/f off and the check engine light came on while still having the boost issue, so I went right to the dealer. After about 10 minutes sitting at the dealer, the a**hole tech came up front puts the papers down and says "The MAF is covered in K&N oil, NOT UNDER WARRANTY." So I let them put in a new MAF and filter ($300... stupid me). Later in the day I get a call saying that the car is ready. Get in the car under the awning, drive 50 feet, the light comes on again... they turn it off... again. Drive the car 2 miles up to road to meet some friends, get back into the car... check engine light again. Drive back up to the dealer and open the hood and get to lookin around... the line that runs into the intake right behind the MAF is snapped OFF. They said oh... well we can order new intake piping and have it ready by Tuesday (under warranty.) Got a call on tuesday "The car is still acting up we dont know whats wrong with it. We should have it ready by Thursday or Friday." Got a call today... "The car needs a new ECM so we overnighted that to us and should be ready tomorrow."
The codes were p0100 and p0102, and as I understand these are lean codes... The car needs a new ECM because it is not "communicating with everything else..."
As all this was happening I contacted K&N and they told me to ship my filter and MAF to them to be tested... I am still waiting to hear back from them. They said that the oil does not mess up MAF's and have been tested and proven...
I have had the filter in the car for about a year and I have yet to clean it, as they come oiled in the box.
Sooo... at this point in time I am a little speachless because idk what to do about this dealership. Don't EVER go to a Parks Chevrolet, they give me so many problems its not even funny. (they have had to replace a dash, steering wheel, other interior pieces, and now intake piping at their own expence because their tech's broke/scratched/ damaged these things) I'm stupid for going back I know, but the next closest dealer is an hour away.
Sooo any help/ opinions from anyone would be great. Please dont be a smarta**, I'm not in the mood
And thanks to those of you that take the time to read about my BS!
NOTE: My car has a drop in K&N, and a 3 inch catback.
Stock tune, stock everything else as far as performance.
I was driving down the highway, got off the exit in heavy traffic. Came to a stop a few cars back from the light, as it turned green the cars started moving and so did I (barely into 1st gear), then they slammed on the brakes I pushed the clutch and brake down as I normally would. Start moving again and the car wont hardly make boost in 1st and 2nd, but was fine in 3rd. Dropped my g/f off and the check engine light came on while still having the boost issue, so I went right to the dealer. After about 10 minutes sitting at the dealer, the a**hole tech came up front puts the papers down and says "The MAF is covered in K&N oil, NOT UNDER WARRANTY." So I let them put in a new MAF and filter ($300... stupid me). Later in the day I get a call saying that the car is ready. Get in the car under the awning, drive 50 feet, the light comes on again... they turn it off... again. Drive the car 2 miles up to road to meet some friends, get back into the car... check engine light again. Drive back up to the dealer and open the hood and get to lookin around... the line that runs into the intake right behind the MAF is snapped OFF. They said oh... well we can order new intake piping and have it ready by Tuesday (under warranty.) Got a call on tuesday "The car is still acting up we dont know whats wrong with it. We should have it ready by Thursday or Friday." Got a call today... "The car needs a new ECM so we overnighted that to us and should be ready tomorrow."
The codes were p0100 and p0102, and as I understand these are lean codes... The car needs a new ECM because it is not "communicating with everything else..."
As all this was happening I contacted K&N and they told me to ship my filter and MAF to them to be tested... I am still waiting to hear back from them. They said that the oil does not mess up MAF's and have been tested and proven...
I have had the filter in the car for about a year and I have yet to clean it, as they come oiled in the box.
Sooo... at this point in time I am a little speachless because idk what to do about this dealership. Don't EVER go to a Parks Chevrolet, they give me so many problems its not even funny. (they have had to replace a dash, steering wheel, other interior pieces, and now intake piping at their own expence because their tech's broke/scratched/ damaged these things) I'm stupid for going back I know, but the next closest dealer is an hour away.
Sooo any help/ opinions from anyone would be great. Please dont be a smarta**, I'm not in the mood
And thanks to those of you that take the time to read about my BS!
03-24-2011, 03:56 PM
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I've never heard of a KN filter fouling up a MAF right out of the box. Usually that issue happens when someone cleans it and puts way too much oil on it. If KN is willing to fight for you, let them do it. 300 bucks is 300 bucks.
03-24-2011, 04:11 PM
#3
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Yeah they are willing to fight for me. I am just confused as to what happened? Was it the MAF to begin with if its still haveing the problem, I wonder?
03-24-2011, 07:50 PM
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Doubtful...if your MAF really took a dump I think that triggers limp mode. I also had that intake piece snap off before, and while it threw a code my car did not run any different. I bet it was ECU from the beginning.
03-25-2011, 01:44 PM
#7
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For 300 bux you could buy an entire new intake from ZZP or K&N or probably Injen too. Just watch your brake lines if you go K&N.
03-25-2011, 01:45 PM
#8
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You'd think they would program the PCM to go Closed Loop, if your O2 sensors are working and the MAF craps out......
Why would they NOT program it that way?
03-25-2011, 04:36 PM
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03-25-2011, 04:38 PM
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Open loop or closed, if your car can't get a good reading on the air coming in it's not going to run right. Your logic is puzzling.
03-25-2011, 04:54 PM
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This is so damn true. Dealer saw my carb sticker from the GMPP kit and threw a fit because I had a calibration on my car and my warranty could be voided. Needless to say I haven't been back there since. There are a few good ones out there, but they can be hard to find.
03-25-2011, 07:37 PM
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This is so damn true. Dealer saw my carb sticker from the GMPP kit and threw a fit because I had a calibration on my car and my warranty could be voided. Needless to say I haven't been back there since. There are a few good ones out there, but they can be hard to find.
03-27-2011, 11:07 AM
#16
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Update:
Well I have the car back and they said that they had to replaced the ECM and the hot side of the intercooler piping... (along with 2 new dents in my door, thats besides the point.) and it is running fine. I still have not heard back from K&N, I think my MAF got to them Friday afternoon.
Well I have the car back and they said that they had to replaced the ECM and the hot side of the intercooler piping... (along with 2 new dents in my door, thats besides the point.) and it is running fine. I still have not heard back from K&N, I think my MAF got to them Friday afternoon.
03-27-2011, 11:08 AM
#17
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I don't know much about tuning, can you explain open and closed loop to me please? I am trying to learn as much as I can at the moment so I can go back to the dealer and ask them why they didnt do this and that. lol
03-27-2011, 11:11 AM
#18
i dont understand why you tards take your cars to the dealer for warranty work, especially if youre modded. you can get warranty work done at ANY mechanic. a mechanic working out of a privately owned shop is not going to ask questions and will send the warranty paperwork into gm without asking you any questions because they get paid pretty well for it. so in summary quit going to stealerships period.
03-28-2011, 05:16 PM
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Open Loop and Closed Loop are two terms used to describe the fueling mode the computer is in.
In closed loop fueling, the computer takes readings from the oxygen sensors which read +/- of 14.64 AFR (Stoich) and makes corrections for it. If your car is idling @ 13.5 AFR, the 02s can see this, and will know to pull out enough fuel to get back to stoich.
In open loop, the fueling is purely based off the MAF transfer function and the open loop fuel table. This table has to be calibrated any time you make MAF changes, and changes that affect the airflow of the MAF.
When a car is started, the computer is in open loop until certain criteria is met. The o2 sensors need to be heated to work properly, so this is the main reason there is a delay.
After the sensors are heated up, the car goes into closed loop and the O2 sensors make their corrections.
The computer will go back into open loop under a variety of conditions. Throttle Position (TP) is one way.
There are parameters in the computer that determine what the TP is for Open Loop, and other things.
When that TP is reached, and the car goes open loop, and richens up.
In closed loop fueling, the computer takes readings from the oxygen sensors which read +/- of 14.64 AFR (Stoich) and makes corrections for it. If your car is idling @ 13.5 AFR, the 02s can see this, and will know to pull out enough fuel to get back to stoich.
In open loop, the fueling is purely based off the MAF transfer function and the open loop fuel table. This table has to be calibrated any time you make MAF changes, and changes that affect the airflow of the MAF.
When a car is started, the computer is in open loop until certain criteria is met. The o2 sensors need to be heated to work properly, so this is the main reason there is a delay.
After the sensors are heated up, the car goes into closed loop and the O2 sensors make their corrections.
The computer will go back into open loop under a variety of conditions. Throttle Position (TP) is one way.
There are parameters in the computer that determine what the TP is for Open Loop, and other things.
When that TP is reached, and the car goes open loop, and richens up.
03-29-2011, 10:45 AM
#22
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Thread Starter
Yeah I understand that, thats what I was getting at. Just the way he put it, he made it sound like I could just take it anywhere.
Guess i could have googled it, lol thanks.
Guess i could have googled it, lol thanks.
Last edited by 09turbo; 03-29-2011 at 10:45 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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