So the other morning on my way to work I hear a pop and my car shuts off I get it back home and I'm pouring coolant out after further diagnosis the lil plastic nipple had broken on the bottom of my radiator so I bought a new one and replaced it today and everything went smooth except now my car would just start up then die over and over again and once I finally got it running I'm not pushing any boost at all and my radiator fans won't kick on and the idle is really rough. When I look at my hp tq gauge it shows I'm only running 50 hp but no check engine light or engine power reduced warning it's also running hotter then normal even though coolant is running normally I think due too the fans not working it's a 2010 turbocharged cobalt

 

Where in CO are you located? Are you a stock LNF? Did you check the intercooler plastic ends, CO roads can be rough on our radiators and intercoolers. I would suggest a boost least first

 

I'm right off tower road and i70 I checked everything down there before and after repairs it all looked good I had this no boost problem once before after I sea foamed my car once but after a week it fixed itself but it wasn't near this bad it takes me a good thirty seconds to accelerate too 40 mph I'm just curious if something else was wrong before the radiator cracked cuz I wouldn't think it cracking would shut my car off

 

How many miles on your plugs? And did you do a boost leak test or just look at everything?

I'm on the other side of denver (tech. Golden ) or I'd swing by and check it out for you

 

Also the car has an intake and a catless exhaust the only thing I can think is maybe one of my airflow sensors is blown but my air fuel ratio gauge is still working fine

 

I haven't done a boost leak test I don't have the tools or the know how yet this is my first turbo car and the plugs are only about 2 months old I did them with my last oil change my neighbor has a nice obd2 scanner and one of the codes that came up was maf sensor so I'm gonna clean it up and pray it fixes the problem

 

Thanks for all the help by the way and I notice your part of the 5280 cobalts I saw you guys at the kbpi car show at bandimeer and at the races on Sunday nights you guys have some badass cobalts

 

Thanks, and with the MAF sensor code it could be an indication of a boost leak if the map sensor and the maf sensor don't agree the ecu just goes must be the maf. A user on here (forget his name) has a how to on a boost leak tester, pretty easy to make and fairly inexpensive. If you have an air compressor it makes it that much easier, if not a bike pump works too just a lot more effort

 

So I found that my inter cooler is cracked as well seems pretty straight forward too replace from what I've read you just unbolt the old one and bolt on the new one is there anything else I need to be aware of when changing it?