Hz13

I just bought a 2006 LT for a commuter. I noticed the key fob (only got one) wasn't working before I bought it, I just figured it was the battery. I went to replace the battery and I noticed one of the contacts that holds the battery is disconnected from the board. I tried the new battery anyway and got nothing still. I'll probably try to solder it back on as I have nothing to lose. If I get a new fob, can I program it myself of is that something I MUST go to the dealer to get done?

The lock/unlock buttons on the door also does not work. I found no dead fuses. Is this an issue related to the FOB or should they still work regardless? If they should, where should I start? Thanks for any help.

TStone

iTrader: (2)

If the battery isn't making good connections, then none of the buttons will work. I do not *believe* you can program the key fob yourself. I'm not 100% positive on that though. But it will take a dealer 10 minutes max to do it.

chevygirl2006

Dealer has to do it with a tech 2

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Pull the handles and make sure the buttons are coonected in the door. Also I'm not sure where the fuse for power accessories is, but did you check underhood and in the cabin fuse boxes?

Hz13

Just do be clear, the buttons on the DOOR don't work either. In other words, it's like I have manual locks, I have to push down the locks when I get out and use the key to get in it.

Hz13

I looked over all of the fuses I though could be even remotely related and they all passed my visual test. I have yet to take the panel off, I've only had the car for a day. I have to assume they are connected, but stranger things have happened I suppose. I'll probably check that out this weekend.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

There's a panel under the hood and a fuse panel passenger side center console down by where your feet would normally go

Also get a fuse tester, much better than visual

rivaladore

iTrader: (7)

The door lock fuse is located in the fuse box inside the car by the passengers feet. You have to pop the panel off. Iirc the fuse is located on the left side and is 10 or 15A. The fuse is probably burnt or missing. If a door lock switch went bad and caused the locks to go haywire the previous owner probably just pulled the fuse. My driver side switch just crapped out and caused my locks to have a mind of their own, I pulled the fuse until I got a replacement switch. If it's the switch don't worry it's only like $10 shipped on amazon and easy to replace. If it winds up being the switch let me know I'll send ya the link from where I bought mine.

Hz13

Ok, well this is probably important. I just realized there is a lock/unlock button on the passenger door which does work. The drivers side does not. I don't know how I missed that switch. So I guess I'll order one for the drivers side and see if that is faulty. As far as the key fob goes I guess I'm stuck with the dealer.

Am I safe to lock the doors with the button and unlock them with the key? I know some cars don't like that and will set off the alarm. I didn't know if the cobalt had such a thing.

Hz13

Does anyone have any insight on this alarm?

I soldered the battery contact back on today. I tried the fob and I only got it to lock twice, nothing else.

BlackielawlessSS

iTrader: (1)

I am dealing with the same mess. I don't use the door lock button as it trips the alarm which is a PITA. For now, until I get another fob, I just push the locks down.

Hz13

I've sort of been finding that out the last couple days. Locking them manually is a pita, too. I just hope I can get this key fob working to save a trip to the Chevy stealership. Because who knows how much it would cost to get one programmed.

BlackielawlessSS

iTrader: (1)

I got quoted 80 at a shop.