LS6Rally

iTrader: (14)

my2.4 does it too so i think its just a valvetrain nosie. i think its a dry knonk from a lack of oil, in the cam, rocker arm contact area

umrdyldo

iTrader: (1)

mine makes a lot of noise in the morning, sounds like it's untuned then it gets better when the coolant gets pretty warm, like 120

it has been loud for quite a while, no problems, still have tons of power, I wonder if it is cold start on the spark plugs or something that makes it sound funny.

rrutter81

mine makes a little chatter (3 seconds) during cold startup in the mornings but nothing major.

xCobalt05x

i had the same problem but it wasnt a hard knock, sounded like lifter chatter. So thats what i thought it was. Drove it like that for month and months and it started to get worse. Then i turbo charged it, then it started getting louder. Turned out it was my rod bearings. The play cause the crank shaft to trq snap the rod end cap bolts and brake. never use brass rod bearings, go stainless steel.

rrutter81

during starts or consistent?

Gifted

After talking to the dealer, and techline advisor, and from what I've done to find and solve the problem, you won't notice a performance issue unless the problem seriously deteriorates. Being that it is probably a tolerance issue or a weakspot in the L61 it has shown that with my specific concern there is something that will need to be replaced and more than likely GM will pay for a long block.

Domestics like to rebuild, but I was told that GM has found it is more cost effective to replace the engine with a updated newer variation of the L61. Rather than beating a dead horse and repair one peice at a time. Which is what we do in the import world, last time I had an L3TC with metal shavings in the oil filter, they shipped me a certified built unit.

Once again I will repost once the official word is in.

Quiets down once oil temp is up, but pretty consistant, still audiable after warmup.

xCobalt05x

it was consistant. it pretty much happened because i just had the motor rebuilt with forged internals and the shop used brass bearings by ACL and didnt tell me they were brass. If they would have i would have taken a longer time breaking the motor in. after i told them what happend they said i was suppose to change the oil every 1k miles for the first 6k miles of the new engines life due to being performance parts. oh well, live and learn i guess. My new motor will be here in october and ill be re forging it again and telling them to use stainless steel bearings.

im pretty sure its going to be a rod bearing. to check it pull your spark plugs out, put the car on a lift, drop the oil pan, and crank the motor over by hand looking for some play between the rods and the crank. if there is some play then you have some bad rod bearings and i would recomend driving the car like an old person, or dont drive it at all, till you can get the rod bearings replaced

Gifted

I'm not turning a wrench on a car that is under warranty. AGAIN, this post is to see the popularity of this concern (aka pattern failure), NOT diagnosis. I appreciate your input however! Once I hear word from the dealer I will repost.

Remember guys, 07's+ should have a 5yr/100k powertrain. Don't dig into it unless you KNOW it's not covered.

xCobalt05x

that is true but as soon as you start turboing a car, it tends to void the warrenty. unless you have a hook up somewhere

Gifted

Turbo? No turbo here. I wish. But as myself and our esteemed buddy Jackalope pointed out, I can't afford that. I was speaking of GM strapping the turbo on the new SS and found problems and weakspots on both the FI and NA side.