Hooch

3 days prior to having this problem it was running fine. I started up my car and it was running like crap. Never has it started up like this. It was so bad that I couldn't even drive it from the street to the driveway. I pushed it into the driveway and I started looking at what I thought was the problem. I tried to start her up again in the driveway and large plumes of white smoke started to come out the exhaust with a slight blue tint, barely discernible. I didn't have a CEL but I ran the BlueDriver on it. I came up with 2 codes, P0172 and P0300, System rich and misfire. I removed the air filter and found it dirty. I ordered a new one.Tested all coil packs and the resistance levels were within specs. I also did the screwdriver to the case test on all four coil packs and good lord was the spark bright. I then conducted a compression check on all of the cylinders and all were a pound or two short of each other, 180 psi. After doing the compression check the spark plugs were definitely in need of changing. All new NGK BKR6EIX gapped at .35. I tried gapping them to .40 like the book states but I was afraid of damaging the tip. I then uninstalled the fuel rail and injectors. injectors 1 - 3 were good but 4 had some oil on it. After removing the injector boot I noticed that the boot had a damaged o-ring. It was replaced and the area was cleaned. All the injectors were misting in a very similar pattern. Nothing out of the ordinary. I re-assembled everything and cranked up the car. It still ran like crap. I then started looking at sensors. I disconnected the MAP sensor and nothing. I then disconnected the IAT sensor and the engine hiccupped and then settled out at 1000 RPM. No more smoke out of the exhaust. I bought the IAT and MAP sensors, thought might aswell replace them both. After replacing them the car still ran like crap. I then disconnected the IAT sensor and the engine settled out again. I tried disconnecting the MAP sensor and the engine dies. Same with the BAP sensor.

Sorry for the novel but I want to make sure that nothing was left out. Any help will be greatly appreciated. This vehicle is not modded at all. Bone stock. Thanks again.

Monieg5gt

I would also look at your mass air flow sensor, and o2 sensors also just to be safe.

Hooch

Thank you for the response. The MAF sensor was pulled from the plug and the engine shut off. I know that it isn't a measured result but I'll have to double check. Also the O2B1S1 ran voltage from .045 - .865v. The O2B1S2 stayed steady at .780v. When I accelerated both sensors read from .025 to .040v. I'm stumped.

USMCFieldMP

iTrader: (1)

Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Also, probably worth checking the fuel pressure; could be a pump/regulator on the way out.

Wvdevil33

I am having same problems we might have wore out our timing chain tensioner or a gasket or a ring is the only thing I can think of next

Hooch

thank you for the response. I did a little more research and found out that the P0300 code that I have, without having any additional P030X code identifying which cylinder, May have to do with the camshaft sensor and the crankshaft sensor not linking up as they should. I may have a bad sensor or sensors. Unfortunately, because of Covid, I do not have the money to even remotely look into those repairs. As soon as I can get my hands back on my car by acquiring some money I’ll post whatever I find back on the thread but as of right now all I can do is speculate. Right now I need to look at the BAP sensor, possibly my oxygen sensors, cam and crankshaft sensors and my timing belt. The one thing that baffles me is that this wasn’t a progressing problem. One morning it worked, the next it didn’t.

The only reasons why I don’t suspect rings or head gaskets or even the valves is because the compression check that I did showed that I had no compression issues. I am by no means an expert but if there’s something else that you can think of that I should look at, I welcome those ideas. Thank you.

Wvdevil33

ohh sorry didn't know you had already compression tested well ill go out there tomorrow and pull the sensor harness off and see if it kills it if its not that much of change im going to be taking mine to gm and have the recall part put on and have them to look at it well my car wasn't missing at first it was smoking a little bit then few days later smoke screen and full blown miss thought about buying Toad pro gonna think a day or 2 and yea would you let me know if u find anything else out thanks there needs to be a recall on that but I find anything out ill let you know
Ps my codes are sensor as well both of them it pulled 4 sensor codes, L terminal circuit, low voltage, control module throttle position

Hooch

Sorry for the late response. No I haven't checked for vacuum leaks. That's on my to check list and the fuel pressure was good to go.

Hooch

So far I've checked all that I mentioned in the original post, the PCV (which was working) and the fuel pressure was good to go. Other things that I have to check are vacuum leaks, cam and crank sensors and timing. I do have one other questions to ask you all. Do any of you have a way of finding out the wiring schematic that involves the IAT sensor? That is still the only sensor that rough runs the engine and then shuts off when I re insert it. Thanks again for your time.

Wvdevil33

Has it taken any coolant from your supercharger and not the radiator I haven't drove it but right here on my street a time or two to see if it would stop missing but no it was flashing the check engine so i had to just stop it there it had took about 6-8 oz of coolant from the supercharger and none from the radiator j/w if we have the same problem I also need a valve cover gasket I'm not sure if I'm suppose to have some vacuum from the valve cover vent to the intake when its idling but i don't and its not blowing hoses off did see some smoke coming from the catalytic converter tho im starting to think it might be a coolant leak i have ordered both o2 sensors I have been looking online and seen where the intake gaskets have failed sucking coolant thru the intake making it steam like not sure how that happens but it seems to be another way it is smoking like a freight train and the p0300 but the o2 sensors should be getting here I will put them on and see what happens from there and repost to let you know what that does if anyone else could help us figure it out plz do the covid has me broke and same with my friend here as well can't afford to take it to a shop been out of freaking work for 2 months

USMCFieldMP

iTrader: (1)

If your S/C coolant is "disappearing", the likely problem is that your I/C pump is dead, so the fluid isn't circulating and it's boiling off. There's an overflow hose that comes off of the fill neck for the S/C coolant system. Fill the system with distilled water (never use tap), do a quick hard run, and then check the end of that hose for fluid.

Wvdevil33

Is there something not right here














also not sure if that's a rigged exhaust manifold or not it sure does look like it [edit] it's a ebay special till the zzp slip on

Hooch

Update: After looking further into this issue i watched a video that the intercooler pump could be the issue. Given that the IAT sensor is what kills that car when I plug it in I decided to check the intercooler pump. I found that the pump was not functioning. I checked voltage at the fuse and at the relay and all is functioning but the pump. I will order a new pump and replace and see if that is the issue.

Wvdevil33

cool I hope so u have a link I can get id say what is wrong with yours is the same with mine as well and ups said that my o2 sensors was suppose to be here today but it hasn't arrived yet probably tomorrow bro I hope that's the issue u got to take intercooler off if so I'm just going to flush it while I'm there

Hooch

No, you dont have to take the intercooler off. There are two hosses, a wire harness connector and 2 13mm (i think that their measurements) bolts. I ordered the intercooler pump from ZZPerformance. It should arrive in two days. I will keep you posted.

USMCFieldMP

iTrader: (1)

It's a quick and simple swap. The pumps are simple 12v systems, so you can test them with something like alligator clip test leads. Ground it somewhere good, and then use the positive cable on the starter for your power source.

IIRC, the stock ones are brushed motors. They can be cleaned and repaired, if you're into that sort of thing. If you're just planning on throwing it away, I'll give you shipping money to send it to me.

Hooch

I got the new intercooler pump from ZZ Performance. I installed the sensor and the car ran beautifully for a solid 15 minutes. During this time I verified that the pump was working and that coolant was flowing, all was good. Then the car died. I started it back up an car was giving me the same problems as before. Running like crap. I disconnected that IAT sensor and the car sputtered a little and then ran. I thought I might have a bad new sensor so I replaced the sensor with the old one and attempted to crank up the engine... nothin happened. I then removed the connector from the IAT sensor and the car cranked right over.

Blue driver info:

Mass airflow was from 8.3 lb/min to 15 lb/min depending on acceleration.
O2 bank 1 and 2: Never reached over 1v. Bank 1 was bouncing from .4 to .9v.
IAT: was at 75 - 81 degrees f.
IMAP: was from 9.5 to 29 inHg depending on acceleration.

I'm stumped. I would like to see what the electrical schematic is for the BAP/IAT/MAP set up. I have no further Ideas at this point. I think I may have to take it in as I feel I have exhausted all of m knowledge on this issue.

USMCFieldMP

iTrader: (1)

A bad intercooler pump won't kill the car. That was never going to be the fix.

To which "IAT" sensor are you referring? The car has two - IAT1 is the MAF sensor and IAT2 is the MAP sensor? The IAT functionality on them both is a secondary function to their main function.

Also, check the Baro and SCIP sensors. They use the same plug and are on the same bit of harness... if you flip their connections, you'll have problems.

Looks like you have a ton of codes. Is that O2 sensor code current? Because the primary O2 sensor being bad will cause the car to run terribly.

Hooch

The intake air temperature sensor that I am referring to is sensor number three on the picture provided. When I disconnect that sensor the engine runs fine but as soon as I reconnect it the engine it starts to sputter and dies.

USMCFieldMP

iTrader: (1)

That's your MAP sensor.

Hooch

Thank you for setting things straight. I was getting all kinds of misinformation on the sensors that I thought were problem. I really appreciate the clarification. Attached are the sensors that I have replaced. The MAP, what I think is the SCIP and the BAP sensors. If I am mistaken, feel free to school me. Also, an image of the BlueDriver scan that I performed while the MAP was connected and while it wasn't. Both yielded the same scan.

USMCFieldMP

iTrader: (1)

Yes. In order of your pictures. MAP, SCIP, Baro. You need to check the harness for the SCIP and the Baro to be sure you have the right ones connected. They are identical sensors and the plugs are on the same stretch of wiring... it's entirely possible to swap them and have the Baro plug on the SCIP sensor and vice versa.

If my memory serves me, the Baro plug should actually T off of the loom heading for the SCIP.

EDIT: Notice how the Baro wiring T's off of the main line going toward the SCIP.

USMCFieldMP

iTrader: (1)

Also, revisiting your first post... this vehicle is NOT stock and appears as though it has been modified fairly extensively.

S/C pulley has been changed, which likely means the injectors have been changed and that it has been tuned. The I/C cooling system has been modified quite a bit too - the tank on the left hand side is called an "Option B" tank. My guess would be that you might have a dual pass end plate on the intercooler and maybe an aftermarket heat exchanger - BUT those two items are not necessary, just something typically done by someone that swaps to the Option B tank.

Hooch

after looking at a thread that identified the signal wires for the BAP and SCIP, along with your T description of the harnesses it looks like everything is in place.

as for your description that my vehicle is heavily modded, I think your comments are on the pictures from the other guy that has been commenting on this thread. The attached photo is of my engine bay.

Thanks again for all your input.

USMCFieldMP

iTrader: (1)

Two more things.

1. The Bosch part numbers for the MAP sensor between these pictures is different... where did you order the MAP from, what part number did you use, and which one is on your car now?
2. A number of your vacuum hoses are rotten and very likely leaking. You should definitely replace them.