Problems/Service/Maintenance Do you have problems with your new 2.0, 2.2, or 2.4L? What kind of service did you have done?

Running rough with a weird twist

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Old 01-18-2021, 03:57 PM
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The part was purchased from an AutoZone. All the information I gave them was just year make and model and engine size. I really didn’t use a particular part number. When I replace the lines I was thinking of going with the silicone vacuum hoses. And my car is black while the other guises car is blue.



Old 01-18-2021, 04:06 PM
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AH, I see what happened there.

If your picture is the top one in my quote above, you might have been given the wrong MAP sensor. The Bosch number on the MAP should be "0 261 230 042". The GM part number is 90423637.

If you search the Auto Zone website for the MAP sensor on a 05-07 Cobalt SS, it'll give you the same Bosch part number.

Auto Zone: Bosch Sensor 0261230042

Bosch Sensor 0261230042
Part #0261230042
SKU #544124
Old 01-18-2021, 04:32 PM
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One quick question about the sensors. I’m heading over to pick up the sensor that you recommended. Is there a different sensor that I should get for the SCIP? I looked at the receipt from AutoZone for that particular sensor on top of the supercharger, they labeled it a MAP sensor.

This is the picture of the receipt for the “map sensor“ that is actually supposed to be the SCIP.

Old 01-18-2021, 04:51 PM
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Yep, that appears to be correct for the SCIP/Baro (pretty sure they're the same sensor). It's a MAP for N/A vehicles.
Old 01-19-2021, 07:02 PM
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Well, at this point I think I have exhausted everything I can unless I can find one of those advanced computers that I can hook up to the OBD two port and really get to dissecting the motor.

Marine, thank you very much for your input. I acquired the sensor that you recommended and again, it ran for a couple of minutes and then started running like crap until I disconnect the map and then it idols out and runs fine. Tomorrow morning I’m gonna take it to a shop that I really trust and we’ll see what they say.

One thing about that sensor. The original sensor that was replaced by the incorrect one and then ultimately replaced with the one that you recommended, did match up on the Bosch numbers. The label had lost all of its color but I was able to see the imprint on the label and it matched to the sensor that you recommended.

again, thank you for all of your input.
Old 01-20-2021, 10:29 AM
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Almost sounds like an cold start, open/closed loop issue. Unplugging the MAP should force it to run on the MAF only, so you honestly should be fine to drive it like that. That's weird though. Has the primary O2 sensor been replaced?

The reading that I'm doing on people having issues that are corrected by unplugging the MAP... tend to see the problem fixed by replacing the PCM.
Old 01-20-2021, 11:06 AM
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Hilariously enough I am sending this message while I am on the side of the road waiting for the tow truck driver. Lol. I unplugged the map sensor and I was able to get about 5 miles down the road when the car completely lost power. To answer your other question, no, I have not replaced the primary oxygen sensor. Last night I test drove the car with the map sensor unplugged and saw the voltage from the bank one sensor shoot to about 1.5 V. I suspect I may have to replace it but I think I’m going to have the shop run a complete diagnostic in case it’s not just the oxygen sensor and it turns out that the PCM needs to be changed.
Old 01-23-2021, 09:32 PM
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K yes the hoses on the blue car is rotten but it doesn't seem like a vac leak i have unplugged them and it definitely ran worse except the one from the valve cover to coldair intake no change on it at idle but I got new o2 sensors upstream and downstream that was actually a code that threw up going to try to replace them tomorrow if it doesn't rain if so it will be the next day also hearing the timing chain more I think should look at it as well before i go and demolish it
ohh and black ss thats nice u get a good deal on it hopefully I wouldn't be putting money into mine if I hadn't got it soo cheap
Old 01-23-2021, 09:46 PM
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Well, after all the work that I did and all the time that I spent, this includes double checking the mass airflow sensor, the shop is telling me that I have a bad mass airflow sensor. They sent me pictures of some debris buildup on the sensor and around the housing. They are going to replace it double check operation of vehicle and hopefully that really was the problem. I could’ve sworn I checked it and verified the voltage for both supply and signal. This one’s going to have me going for therapy.
Old 01-24-2021, 01:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Hooch
Well, after all the work that I did and all the time that I spent, this includes double checking the mass airflow sensor, the shop is telling me that I have a bad mass airflow sensor. They sent me pictures of some debris buildup on the sensor and around the housing. They are going to replace it double check operation of vehicle and hopefully that really was the problem. I could’ve sworn I checked it and verified the voltage for both supply and signal. This one’s going to have me going for therapy.
lol yep I hope they can fix it bro I know how you feel how much they charging you if you don't mind me asking
Old 01-27-2021, 09:16 PM
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Hi hooch

Have you figured out what is wrong with your black car i replaced my o2 sensors upstream and downstream with ntk and took the valve cover off ant there was some oil on the plugs but I got looking at my timing chain ant I think it's right but it doesn't seem to be at 2 Int and 10 Ext seems like 2 and 11 instead and took the intake filter off and there was muck in the induction right by the throttle body got to buy a valve cover gasket thinking it done more I am also looking at the exhaust where the head connects to the rest of the exhaust think its the cat converter lol been a long day but there is oil that looks like its seeping out there and running down the whole header hope its just from the valve cover gasket it was leaking good but still got to take the intake manifold off and throttle body and take the cores out clean and replace the seals also thinking about replacing the outer timing chain or should I do both im tight on money right at the moment so be gentle plz hahaha
Old 01-27-2021, 09:21 PM
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The shop replaced the mass airflow sensor. Diagnostic, parts and labor ran me $1100. The only problem now is, although the car is running fine now, they informed me that there is a too rich code present. They suspect it’s the fuel injectors that may be dirty because they claim that there are some bulletins out there pertaining to this problem.
Old 01-28-2021, 09:48 AM
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Might just need to reset the fuel trims and see if it persists (unplug negative cable for ten minutes or more).

Otherwise, you can get new fuel injectors fairly cheap - or have yours cleaned.

I've used these guys before with great results. $18/injector. I shipped the injectors on Monday and had them back on Wednesday... that's from Dallas to Houston though (4 hrs apart). I'm sure there are injector cleaning companies near you, they just probably aren't as cheap.

https://www.injectorrx.com/

Or... you can do a Stg2 kit for about $330, and pick up some power in the process.

https://zzperformance.com/collection...32709868257342
Old 01-28-2021, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Hooch
The shop replaced the mass airflow sensor. Diagnostic, parts and labor ran me $1100. The only problem now is, although the car is running fine now, they informed me that there is a too rich code present. They suspect it’s the fuel injectors that may be dirty because they claim that there are some bulletins out there pertaining to this problem.
ohh man that sucks they charge soo much to change something that has 1 bolt sometimes not even 1
Old 01-28-2021, 08:04 PM
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Thanks, Marine. I’ll definitely give them a look. I also appreciate the input on the extra horsepower. Unfortunately I live in California and I always have to watch out for any mods that I do to my cars because unfortunately, I still have to pass smog in the state. Things are in the works where I may be moving to a state that does not require smog. If you don’t mind, I may pick your brain on what I can do with this engine to try and reach 250+, maybe 275+ horsepower. I currently own a 2002Z 28 that I worked on myself that has 400 horses to the rear wheels on engine and 500 with 100 shot of nitrous. I think a beefed up cobalt would be a welcome addition when I get out of the state.

Devil, after looking at everything, even looking at the mass airflow sensor without a sophisticated diagnostic machine, I will still continue going to this place. they have helped me with previous issues that I could not deal with because I’m just a garage mechanic. Yeah, it does suck but ultimately, the car is up and running and now it allows me to do the next steps.
Old 01-29-2021, 10:00 AM
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The GM Stg2 (which is essentially what the ZZP Stage Kit is) was CARB approved if I remember correctly, so you may be okay, but I don't know how rigorous they are with 15ish year old cars. It doesn't change anything as far as emissions. Start registering your cars in Arizona. And the kit that I linked with a 2.8" or 2.9" pulley would put you around 250whp.
Old 01-30-2021, 10:19 AM
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Yea I see after you have tried what you know before spending to much money i think it's time for the garage to take a whack at it sorta speak im on my way as well there are a few things I want to get myself and try before I do but hooch I'm glad your on the road ohh and I don't think our cars have the same prob mine is not quitting it's just building oil on the plugs misfiring and using a little bit of supercharger coolant and billowing smoke lol

Last edited by Wvdevil33; 01-30-2021 at 10:25 AM.
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