Seal on Slave Cylinder
#1
Seal on Slave Cylinder
I did a clutch job recently and I couldn't figure out for the life of me why I couldn't keep pressure in my line when I reinstalled the elbow. I was searching through other posts throughout css.net and I found an article about a job gone wrong with someone needing to relocate from Canada to Ireland. A few pages out, someone was kind enough to post pictures of the very same parts that were giving me problems and I found out that when my brother pulled the elbow off when we were disassembling, he never turned it and broke half of the seal off. Also, my stem(?) isn't straight up like the picture is, it's more at a slight angle. My question is, can I replace the seal, or do I have to get a whole new slave clylinder and TOB?
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/6232586-post78.html <-- This was the post I was referring to
Edit: 2006 SS/SC
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/6232586-post78.html <-- This was the post I was referring to
Edit: 2006 SS/SC
Last edited by killcitytx; 10-29-2013 at 02:08 PM.
#3
Former Vendor
iTrader: (3)
you have two seals in there or the seal was not on the clutch pipe correctly; remove the distrbution block turn it upside down u will see a seal in there it should be on the clutch pipe.
it should look like this before you put the block on
not like this - the seal is not there and if you leave it in the block it wont seal
here is the block correctly positioned with the hairpin clip in the correct place
you need to get a new clutch pipe and transfer the seal only. you cant buy the seal seperately. the clutch pipe should not move up and down in the black sleeve as shown in the picture.
this is a simple task that when done wrong can lead to having to remove the trans to properly install a new clutch pipe. Hopefully you can rescue this disaster.
dist. block with no seal in it. nice and clean
put the seal on the clutch pipe
like this
NOT like this
|I have posted all this before. For over five years this has been explained. look at this, check out crate engine depot.com for the clutch pipe, and be happy
it should look like this before you put the block on
not like this - the seal is not there and if you leave it in the block it wont seal
here is the block correctly positioned with the hairpin clip in the correct place
you need to get a new clutch pipe and transfer the seal only. you cant buy the seal seperately. the clutch pipe should not move up and down in the black sleeve as shown in the picture.
this is a simple task that when done wrong can lead to having to remove the trans to properly install a new clutch pipe. Hopefully you can rescue this disaster.
dist. block with no seal in it. nice and clean
put the seal on the clutch pipe
like this
NOT like this
|I have posted all this before. For over five years this has been explained. look at this, check out crate engine depot.com for the clutch pipe, and be happy
#4
Thank you for the information. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem this simple. My piece seems like it was quite damaged upon removal. I don't know if it's still able to function or whatnot.
These are the pictures. Once again, thank you for the information.
Edit: It seems like my pin is on the opposite side of what it needs to be and I didn't put the little black seal on the pipe before I put the elbow on. Would this be my problem? I thought the line that comes out of the transmission was the seal. My bad.
These are the pictures. Once again, thank you for the information.
Edit: It seems like my pin is on the opposite side of what it needs to be and I didn't put the little black seal on the pipe before I put the elbow on. Would this be my problem? I thought the line that comes out of the transmission was the seal. My bad.
#10
Former Vendor
iTrader: (3)
the clutch pipe has only one seal the other end is screwed into the TOB. U have little to lose by trying to reassemble it correctly and bleeding it. If this doesnt work, contact crate engine depot and order up a clutch pipe and a new plastic sleeve holder. remove trans etc. BTW removing the plastic sleeve holder is not simple unless u have done it before. dont wreck it.
i would suggest a new TOB if you did not replace that last time. good luck
i would suggest a new TOB if you did not replace that last time. good luck
#11
the clutch pipe has only one seal the other end is screwed into the TOB. U have little to lose by trying to reassemble it correctly and bleeding it. If this doesnt work, contact crate engine depot and order up a clutch pipe and a new plastic sleeve holder. remove trans etc. BTW removing the plastic sleeve holder is not simple unless u have done it before. dont wreck it.
i would suggest a new TOB if you did not replace that last time. good luck
i would suggest a new TOB if you did not replace that last time. good luck
#12
Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
Yeah i've pretty much as a policy started replacing the clutch pipe every time I do a clutch job, it's a $10 part and it eliminates any hassles.
I also have a couple spare elbows now from used/donor transmissions, so I pre-clean one and the clips and have it ready to pop on. Saves time and eliminates any chance of dirt contamination or damaging the seal.
I also have a couple spare elbows now from used/donor transmissions, so I pre-clean one and the clips and have it ready to pop on. Saves time and eliminates any chance of dirt contamination or damaging the seal.
#14
Does anybody have a part number for the "elbow"? I'm assuming it's the same for both the SS/SC and SS/TC, correct? Does anybody have any information on what the equivalent part is for the F40?
#18
So now that I have everything put back together, I go to start my car and I get a high pitched noise constantly, my car won't go into gear, and it's very loud. I did some looking around and I came to the conclusion that my TOB needs to be bench bled. If I am wrong, tell me what I need to do. As far as the noise, would that be my clutch or would it be the TOB making that noise? It's so depressing to get everything all put back together ..again just to have it all not work. Learning process sucks.
#19
CED, I spoke with y'all several months back and wasn't able to get much help because it was a Saab part and information is lacking on anything Saab related. A Matt Rominski helped me with the parts that I could verify I would probably need and he was very professional, friendly, and helpful within the realm of what he could do, but it didn't change the fact that very little reliable information was available about Saab F40 parts.
Last edited by Stamina; 11-01-2013 at 03:32 AM.
#20
Former Vendor
iTrader: (3)
^^^ Stamina I guess you are on your own. ZZP have done this conversion many times, and it would make sense to get guidance from them or pay them to do it. But you have chosen to buy from FMSR so clearly Rudy will be your mentor. Ask him. All the best, your stuff is nothing to do with this thread and the OP's issues which are greater than we had hoped for him.
#21
Former Vendor
iTrader: (3)
So now that I have everything put back together, I go to start my car and I get a high pitched noise constantly, my car won't go into gear, and it's very loud. I did some looking around and I came to the conclusion that my TOB needs to be bench bled. If I am wrong, tell me what I need to do. As far as the noise, would that be my clutch or would it be the TOB making that noise? It's so depressing to get everything all put back together ..again just to have it all not work. Learning process sucks.
The damage caused by improper installation process, prybars etc is apparently greater than we had all hoped for you. Start over. Good luck.
#22
By start over, you mean reinstall a new TOB, clutch pipe, and what? Pry bar? How is that going to help me? There's no way to bleed this all the way without reinstalling a new one? Does this mean it's broken? Too many questions.. Kind of lost on this now, I've never had a problem with a clutch job before and this is my third one :/
#23
Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
Noise isn't bleeding. You damaged something.
You can bleed the TOB as part of the system, no bench bleeding required. Any air will come out to the bleeder valve.
I personally vacuum bleed all the Cobalts I do and have never had to open the bleeder screw even, the vacuum process as per the service manual is correct and very simple IMO.
Powell is referring to you maybe using a pry-bar to force something in and in the process damaged it or bent/misaligned something.
How does the clutch pedal feel? Is there hydraulic resistance?
Does the shifter move normally when the car is not running into all gears?
You can bleed the TOB as part of the system, no bench bleeding required. Any air will come out to the bleeder valve.
I personally vacuum bleed all the Cobalts I do and have never had to open the bleeder screw even, the vacuum process as per the service manual is correct and very simple IMO.
Powell is referring to you maybe using a pry-bar to force something in and in the process damaged it or bent/misaligned something.
How does the clutch pedal feel? Is there hydraulic resistance?
Does the shifter move normally when the car is not running into all gears?
#24
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
I would pop open the inspection cover and look to see if you can see anything binding or touching somewhere to make that sort of noise with the engine running. A tob alone isn't going to make the noises you are describing.
And yes, Mr Powell is saying pull everything apart and start over because something was clearly not done right somewhere along the line. I've done quite a few clutch and tob replacement jobs on the f35 and have never encountered an issue like this nor have I ever had to "bench bleed" this sort of tob. They bleed very easily and straight forward if done correctly.
And yes, Mr Powell is saying pull everything apart and start over because something was clearly not done right somewhere along the line. I've done quite a few clutch and tob replacement jobs on the f35 and have never encountered an issue like this nor have I ever had to "bench bleed" this sort of tob. They bleed very easily and straight forward if done correctly.
#25
Former Vendor
iTrader: (5)
Tob
John and i have worked on why everyone seems to be having problems with the TOB's
for the most part these seem to be self inflected from what we are finding.
I have created a few links for how to bleed the system, and what to look for on the TOB's
To download a copy of the clutch slave cylinder (TOB) bleeding procedure click here
To download a coy of the clutch slave cylinder (TOB) inspection and warranty instructions click here
This may help some of you with your installs, but my number one adivce is to have either a dealer or someone with a lot of experience with this type of install help you or have them do it. Some times paying a bit more from the get go saves on having to do it twice.
for the most part these seem to be self inflected from what we are finding.
I have created a few links for how to bleed the system, and what to look for on the TOB's
To download a copy of the clutch slave cylinder (TOB) bleeding procedure click here
To download a coy of the clutch slave cylinder (TOB) inspection and warranty instructions click here
This may help some of you with your installs, but my number one adivce is to have either a dealer or someone with a lot of experience with this type of install help you or have them do it. Some times paying a bit more from the get go saves on having to do it twice.