Steering wheel vibration when braking not from warped rotor...
#1
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Steering wheel vibration when braking not from warped rotor...
Hi guys,
I have had a hell of a vibration when applying the breaks from 40mph and above.
If cruising say 65mph then applying the breaks to slow down to 60mph. I get a hell of a steering wheel shake.
From what I've seen here is that this is usually caused due to a warped rotor. Today I replaced both front rotors and pads with brand new ones and am still experiencing the same issue. The steering wheel still vibrates like crazy when braking at higher speeds.
Has anyone here experienced this issue before where it's not rotor related and was something else that I could specifically look into.
Thanks in advance.
I have had a hell of a vibration when applying the breaks from 40mph and above.
If cruising say 65mph then applying the breaks to slow down to 60mph. I get a hell of a steering wheel shake.
From what I've seen here is that this is usually caused due to a warped rotor. Today I replaced both front rotors and pads with brand new ones and am still experiencing the same issue. The steering wheel still vibrates like crazy when braking at higher speeds.
Has anyone here experienced this issue before where it's not rotor related and was something else that I could specifically look into.
Thanks in advance.
#6
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When you put your wheels back on did you torque them properly?
Ive heard that over torquing your lug nuts can warp a rotor, so maybe
when you put them on after changeing one of the new rotors got wapred?
Ive heard that over torquing your lug nuts can warp a rotor, so maybe
when you put them on after changeing one of the new rotors got wapred?
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Yeah I know that the new ones were not over torqued and if they were I would also be able to notice it at a slower speed. So I think that can be ruled out.
I put the front end back on stands and checked the steering without the pressure on the wheels. I couldn't find anything glaring that was loose that shouldn't be related to the steering and suspension.
I put the front end back on stands and checked the steering without the pressure on the wheels. I couldn't find anything glaring that was loose that shouldn't be related to the steering and suspension.
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yea i have the same issue, someone said re balance them and i did, and i still have the issue
iv even changed rotors and pads 2 times
looking for answer also
iv even changed rotors and pads 2 times
looking for answer also
#9
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Check your outer tie rods. Pick up the front of the car and grab a wheel at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock. Move the wheel in and out as if it were turning while driving down the road. If you feel a little looseness then you likely have a bad outer tie rod. Check the other wheel as well.
Another possibility is a tread separation in your front tires.
Ball joints on the Cobalts are pretty stout.
Another possibility is a tread separation in your front tires.
Ball joints on the Cobalts are pretty stout.
#11
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never seen a tie rod end cause a wheel shake, they usualy clunk before they end up completely loose, stagner thigns have happened tho so this may be a new scenario for me to see/learn from, in for results also
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Thanks for all the ideas guys. I was also wondering if it was a broken belt in the tire. I'm gonna swap the fronts to the back and see. Just for kicks.
When I had it up on the jackstands I did move the wheels in and out like it was turning. Didnt feel any thing loose there.
In a couple weeks I'm going to buy some new tires and put my stock wheels back on and get an alignment. Currently I'm running my winter blizzaks and they are due for replacing after this season.
When I had it up on the jackstands I did move the wheels in and out like it was turning. Didnt feel any thing loose there.
In a couple weeks I'm going to buy some new tires and put my stock wheels back on and get an alignment. Currently I'm running my winter blizzaks and they are due for replacing after this season.
#14
It could be lateral runout. This can exist on your rim mounting surface, rotor, hub flange or in the space between them.
All it takes is 0.005" to cause a shake or vibration. An on-car brake lathe can machine your rotors to remove the runout if it exists at the hub or rotor surface. Replacing the rotors will not fix it. My suggestion is to remove the wheels, and measure runout at the rotor surface using the proper tools.
Step 1 - Measure lateral runout.
Google it if you dont know how to, or what i mean.
All it takes is 0.005" to cause a shake or vibration. An on-car brake lathe can machine your rotors to remove the runout if it exists at the hub or rotor surface. Replacing the rotors will not fix it. My suggestion is to remove the wheels, and measure runout at the rotor surface using the proper tools.
Step 1 - Measure lateral runout.
Google it if you dont know how to, or what i mean.
Last edited by guitarenvy; 03-19-2012 at 02:50 PM.
#15
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swappin tires back and forth is free and easy haha
vibration still present but leaves wheel, replace tires, done!
vibration still present but leaves wheel, replace tires, done!
Last edited by bobbyjohn681; 03-20-2012 at 12:55 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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swapped the fronts to the back and back to the fronts and it didn't change a damn thing. Seems that the steering wheel shake and pulsing is coming from the driver side some where.
Sure is getting annoying. Still is only totally noticeable at 40mph and above. Back to the drawing board. Until I decide to actually take it into a professional.....
Sure is getting annoying. Still is only totally noticeable at 40mph and above. Back to the drawing board. Until I decide to actually take it into a professional.....
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I figured out my issue. Just got my car back from the shop today. It was a cracked steering column... Believe it or not. I was shocked! Car runs good now though. =)
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Drew - Thanks for posting what caused your issue.
Tom - Yes I am only encountering it under braking. I have replaced the pads and rotors for all of the wheels.
It does appear that the new pads/rotors are making the steering wheel shaking/vibration more fierce now. I know for a fact the new ones are not warped. So it leads me to believe there's something loose that shouldn't be. Gonna check my steering column later.
Tom - Yes I am only encountering it under braking. I have replaced the pads and rotors for all of the wheels.
It does appear that the new pads/rotors are making the steering wheel shaking/vibration more fierce now. I know for a fact the new ones are not warped. So it leads me to believe there's something loose that shouldn't be. Gonna check my steering column later.
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Get your rotors turned and see if that fixes the problem. I had to get new ones and get them turned to fix mine the last time that happened.
Also check your calipers make sure they are torqued right and check your guide pins they could be worn, not lubricated or bent.
I got to get under my car and check it out also.
Mine started shaking a few weeks after putting in new brakes but I hit a curb and cut two tires and trashed two of my steelies around the same time.
So right now I have no idea if I have to turn my rotors or if I have some damage under the car that I could not see.
I will know when I get my coils in and have my car up in the air.
Also check your calipers make sure they are torqued right and check your guide pins they could be worn, not lubricated or bent.
I got to get under my car and check it out also.
Mine started shaking a few weeks after putting in new brakes but I hit a curb and cut two tires and trashed two of my steelies around the same time.
So right now I have no idea if I have to turn my rotors or if I have some damage under the car that I could not see.
I will know when I get my coils in and have my car up in the air.
#22
I think you need to check the wheel alignment as it improper alignment may cause vibrations at high speed in the steering. If possible than make sure the filler gap between the brake pad and drum is as per the recommendation.