Continued Coolant issues for 15K miles after installing LDK due to porus block of LNF. Coolant issues started just after cracking LNF but assumed it was air in system due to coolant reservoir running low at times, problem never went away after LDK install, burped system every way possible, new radiator, new thermostat with drilled hole in it even recently took to dealership and they said no coolant flow, changed water pump and thermostat, did the vac an fill on two occasions but temp still erratic, colder weather engine runs hotter, this morning 36 out engine temp bumped 237. Temp will run up to 230's the back to 216 in a couple miles then back to 230's again and so on and this is after I get out of the hills and on flat land with cruise set. Warm weather engine runs fairly consistent around 214-216.

 

There's a procedure to getting your cooling system working properly lol. Have you check both of your fans are working? you can HPtune how hot your car is to when your fans kick in. Is there anything blocking the radaitor?

 

Car is tuned, both fans on at 194, nothing blocking radiator

 

What does the temp do after its warmed up and you let it idle?

 

It stays around 216

 

Hmm so the water pump is def moving fluid, still kinda high. No chance any or part of a plug was left in a port? Or the rear coolant tube isn't against the exhaust manifold/turbo

 

Radiator and lower radiator hose doesn't warm up as if no coolant flowing, this is why dealership changed water pump but that didn't fix it. Temps stable and close to normal in warm weather, unstable and high in cold temps

 

if the rad is cold on both sides there is no coolant flowing to the rad. its possible the rad is plugged.

 

I would verify no plugs from the motor were left on during install

 

As I said this problem started just after LNF cracked and next morning had a low coolant light, I am sure air got in the system after analyzing for blown head gasket and leaks and after sending oil sample to Blackstone Labs which they verified components of anti-freeze in the oil. I continued to drive car several thousand miles keeping up with coolant level and changing oil frequently, I wasn't much worried about temp issues since engine was trash, when I installed new LDK and was carefull with filling process I still had the same erratic issues as if air still in system. Talking to ZZP they suggested a new Radiator, that made no difference, new thermostat made no difference, new water pump and 2 sessions of the vac n fill process made no difference. In warm weather the temps are pretty much normal, in cold weather things get stupid, just the opposite of what we think normal should be. I have a 60 mile commute to work, 35 miles of that is rolling 2 lane hills and curves, temp is fairly normal, problems start on level 4 lane with cruise set at 70mph. Temp will climb after several miles to 130's the in several miles back to 116 then do this cycle again for most of the rest of the trip, sometimes about 5 miles before I get to work it will get back to normal. Again driving through the hills under light boost at times you would think higher temps and on level ground and negative boost you would think it would run cooler. Dealership's position on this now is, car is tuned and they can't eliminate any varibles unless the PCM is in stock tune. I do not want to loose my tune so can I install another stock PCM and will it work with 3-bar map sensors? At least good enough for testing purposes. Who has a stock PCM? I don't think this will fix the issue but I am dealing with people who know less about this than I do.

 

Without looking at a log of the tune it's hard to say.

Given it acts normal when it's warm out and then starts acting up once it cools down I'm leaning towards there is something off in the tune file. On the LNF block did you have this tune also?

 

Same tune, drove it almost 6K miles, temp stayed between 194-198, no problems

 

In warm and cold weather?

 

Yes, bought car in February

 

If you have I'd check the coolant hoses then, make sure there is nothing in them. I know it sounds unlikely but you've tried a number of other things without result. Given the hose to the rad or from the rad don't warm up (also assuming the rad doesnt warm up) there is a flow issue or a blocked flow issue.