When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey guys I'm trying to change my slave cylinder on my 09 t/c and I can't get any of the subframe bolts off they just spin all 4 except one on the driver side, I saw another thread where somebody recommended cutting the subframe itself but I'm not really game for cutting something like that, just wondering if there's peep holes where I can look and see what's going on in there or stick a wrench ? Car is down until I figure this out :/ any help would be appreciated guys
The front have holes in the wheel wells but i had to grind them to get the wrench in there basically break off the cages and i welded the back 2 into place and used a wrench on the fronts when reinstalling
So there's not really any way to access the rear bolt captive nuts? Or are they in plain sight? I only ask this because I moved out of state and the slave cylinder went up right before I moved so the car stayed at my parents house, I have my dad spray the fronts down with on blaster but I don't know where to tell him to look for the rear nuts to spray them for me so It'll be easier next time I'm up there finishing the job up pics of the access holes would be excellent but no beans yet
You may be able to look at it through the exhaust tunnel. What I did was cut them with the torch but I had to replace my worn out cabs because they melted. Not that they were any good but thought I'd let you know what can happen.
Yeah the cabs are recently replaced so there's no issues with the bushings I know that, I guess I pretty much am just looking for a good place to cut holes to hold the cage nut still
alright thanks guys, I've been through that thread a couple of times before posting this but I'll take what I've learned and hopefully this'll work out for me haha
I had an issue with my rear bolts, one was stuck in the cab and I had to cut off the control arm and use some crazy sorcery to get that bastard out, took like all day, destroyed the cage to, Powell sent me a stainless mechanically locking nut or whatever it's called and a stainless washer and I just use that. No cage crap. But that's just that one on the passenger side. And I antisezed the **** out of the bolts where they go through the cabs.
In case anyone was wondering, this was the carnage I had to create to get the damn subframe to drop for me, I fought them all day while I was home and only got the cradle down, car is still down as I hit a brake line with my cut off wheel and ran out of weekend, the front two bolts I was able to get out and the passenger side I got lucky with but the ugly picture was the driver side, needless to say I ordered new bushings and cradle bolts for when I get back up there, will probably need some welding when I get it down here too, just a massacre, I. Hate. Rust, and I noticed there's no pictures ANYWHERE of these bolts on a car so hopefully this will help some people
I had this issue on just one thankfully. I ended up having to cut the control arm apart, and with a lot of grinder work and hacksaw, cut the bolt in half before it came out. replaced the control arm, used a stainless washer and nut supplied by powell and antiseized the living crap out of the entire bolt when I replaced them. don't have an issue removing them anymore. I didn't upgrade to the powell cabs, but I plan to in the future.
if u drop the entire cradle undoing each cab bolt front and rear one turn at a time in sequence front and rear diagonally using a lever on the cradle to maintain tension you can stop the caged nuts from spinning and then cut the bolts out with the cradle down. Its a pita but relatively easy. The engine can hang on the top mounts just remove the front and rear mounts, undo the rack bolts and the ball joint cross bolts and leave that hanging there. The biggest pain after the cab bolts are the plastic splash shields and inner fenders.
The new bolts cost 12 dollars or so each. CED have them. I have lots, its happening more and more. And antiseize fixes it for future folks
Yeah I cut the heads off the bolts and the cradle still diddnt drop that's when I knew the cab's were seized so I started hacking away at the tops of the bolts to finish the job, cradle is on the ground now just have to drive back up to ny, I should be ready to finish this slave cylinder job up, I've got the new slave, just ordered new cab bushings and sway bar bushings to stop all my clunks and things, got new frame bolts nuts and washers, that should be all of it, going up next weekend to try to finally bring her back to life lol wish me luck! Thanks for all the input Powell!
That sucks, sorry to hear this. Mine is parked in salt season and when I replaced my cabs with powells awesome bushings I replaced the bolts just for good measure. Just got done getting the carriage in and out due to changing the trans and never seized all the bolts.
I find it hard to believe that those cabs seized on the bolts that quickly after having them changed. Must have been cheap metal.
New York has been using calcium chloride in addition to regular road salt to keep their roads clear. They also use brine, aka sticky salt water coated in molasses-like substance.
As you can see, it destroys cars.
My advice: don't spend more than you need to on a car you're going to drive in the winter. And, undercoat with oil once or twice a year.
01-12-2016 | 04:38 PM
