buildmeanempire

iTrader: (5)

When you took it to a dealer did they do a flush and fill?

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

How did they confirm "no flow"? The cooling system isnt that complex, pour water in the top of the radiator with the hoses off, does water come out of the bottom at relatively the same rate?

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

When you said the system is building "alot of pressure" and that you turned the car off to avoid blowing off a line, how did you make this determination that there was alot of pressure? Did the hose visibly start swelling up like a hot air balloon, or did the hose just get stiff? Im willing to bet there is absolutely nothing wrong with the cooling system and it just needed time to suck the coolant down. Go to the parts store, get ANOTHER thermostat, replace the thermostat you drilled the hole in, fill the car with coolant, and just drive it. It should take at least a gallon and a half of fluid depending on how much you lose with the change, then just let the car run and fill as nessecary and watch the coolant temp, if it starts to get over 230* turn the car off (fans turn on at 227*) and let it suck down more coolant and add as nessecary. Then just drive the damn thing. If there is a problem with the system or an obstruction that is somehow causing "overpressurization" then you need to let the damn radiator hose explode and narrow the problem.

05g5

balooons

i dont know what they did, they called me said they hooked their machine up, there is no air in the system its not flowing, replace your tstat, than water pump if thats not the issue. well the issue is still there and i did all that

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

dealerships are worthless, have you tried running the hose through the heatercore to see if it flushes ok? Your radiator hoses have a burst rating of over 100psi, your surge tank cap has a rating of 16psi, theres no way your radiator hoses are getting higher then that unless you had a cracked sleeve or blown head gasket along a coolant passage that was in line with the combustion chamber.

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

Only thing i can suggest is leakdown test the car and see if you have a cylinder that is bleeding pressure into the cooling system, or put it all back together with a new thermostat and drive it until a radiator hose explodes. If the car drove fine before, there is nothing changing the thermostat would do to alter that, other then a defective thermostat. Ive dealt with cars that are hard to bleed, these cars are not one of them. I had half my car apart over the weekend, put it all back together, poured coolant in the tank, and went about my business. I own two cobalts, both of them have had tstat changes, and radiator hose changes, etc etc. My other cobalt has a smashed radiator on the lower passenger side and still runs just fine. lol

05g5

View My Video

05g5

View My Video

Right after i took the first video i removed that line. And 2 ++ minutrs later its still lettig out steam

05g5

Do tw videos work for u guys? Doesnt want to on my phone says i need a update

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

and the system was completely full (by full i mean the surge tank would not accept anymore) at the time? when you started it?

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

If your using just water to do these tests (which i assume you are because coolant is expensive to keep wasting) then the steam would be normal, the heat from the motor is boiling it off without the proper concentration of antifreeze, but more importantly, the cap needs be on the surge tank for the system to pressurize (what your seeing in the form of steam is the system pressure being vented, which would othewise be sealed up to 16psi in the surge tank, thats why it says do not open when hot)

Also, if your running at 83 degrees celsius, thats normal operating temp. Operating temp ranges from 180-227* (Fahrenheit) degrees depending on driving conditions.

05g5

Yes obvously full and 90% coolant . I needed half a litre to top if off ( water)

Thing is when running like this coolant will contiune to push out, pretty well empty the pver flow + some. I know this becuase i shut the car off and it takes a **** load of coolant again
Or i put the cap and and blow baloo s

05g5

Spoke to aa few gm mechanics and i told them the story and both say without a doubt its the headgasket or block cracked

05g5

Oil in the head stud bolt hole
Cylinders 1 and 3 got scoring on the back side. Pretty noticable. And on each cylinder on the back side of the piston its shiny clean. Blow by burning carbon off?? Ad maybe im crazy but each piston looks a little oval shaped

05g5

See the clean spot? This kne is the biggest


See the scoring?

05g5

I didnt see any breaks on the top half of the gasket. But it was warped ro ****. I had to sdrape the bottom portion off the block and there is what looks like veins around the piston cut outs

Motor shot? Im no expert just a guy wirh tools thag wants yo learn/fix my ride

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

You cant make any determinations by visual inspection only, but i wouldnt be surprised if it was the head gasket if you said the coolant hoses are ballooning to the point of explosion. Frankly id be amazed the radiator didnt break first. The oil and coolant you see coating everything is mainly just from when you lift the head off the block, you cant make any determinations from that alone. Make sure you blow those head bolt holes out with compressed air so that they are clean and free of fluids and debris before you put the head back on.

Id also have the head pressure checked and decked at your local machine shop but thats up to you, ive never heard of these heads having any issues with cracking like the quad4's did.

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

Look for hairline cracks in the sleeves, i know these pictures arent ecotec motors but they give you a general idea of what a hairline crack in a sleeve looks like.

nhanson

iTrader: (1)

I had oil in a lot of my head bolt holes. Not sure if that means anything (my motor was good except i bent 2 rods).

Pistons look good (they have a slight dish in them thats normal)

05g5

I didnt notoce any cracks. Going out there to clean things up and look closer

But no.Oil was in that head stud. It make the sound of cracking loose 4-5 times a bunch of **** was on the threads of that far back right had coner bolt, and it wad tigher than a nuns c@nt. BAck breaking almost. Should have said that at first

And you said it right. All the pistons look slightly "dished" is a good way of putting it.

And btw. This is huge to note. My brand nee oil that i put in this past week, drove me 50 kms was definaty milky, like mixing white and chocolate ice cream together. can see streams of milky so to spekak?

05g5

Pardon my english guys. This iphone keyboard ans my fingers are not friends

nhanson

iTrader: (1)

Mine were tight too. Broke my 3/8" drive then I bought a 1/2" to do it.

No breakage on the head gasket?

05g5

No obviouse breaks
I had to scrape about half of the bottom portion of the gasket off my block. But i can see what looks like veins on that same back right hand corner. And milky **** in my oil ill take a pic thats easy to see
And the fact that there is a oil passage hole right 1/4 inch away from the head stud hole where i found oil and crud all over the bolt. And that only bolt

And definalty no cracks in the sleeves. I cleaned those up and their fine. Minis the scratchs on pistin 1 and 3 that run vertically

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

milky oil = head gasket

05g5

I believe that is a oil passage jet? Not sure tbh. But theres evidence of oil there and the bolt hole