I am new here and love the site. I lost a clutch at 4400 kms and now at 6000kms and my dad thinks i can't drive a standard. I have not been too hard or easy on my shifts including play time. I drove his 81 bronco a long time without burning his 300'000 kms clutch. The g.m. rep says no deal on warranty; has burn marks on the plate and too much tire wear;sorry about that ;2007 cobalt ss. I read Badmunky's but maybe too late; any ideas before i cave and fork out $1900 canadian. out of luck!

 

What rpm r u shifting at?

 

sorry bro, but you need to learn to drive stick. thats ridiculous

 

Holy hell.

I concur with hatrickstu.

 

Go ahead and buy yourself an aftermarket Stage II clutch would me my advice..

 

dude I had the same problem at 13,000 miles im on my 2nd too. the dealership made me pay for the pressure plate and clutch, $416.00 I asked them to give me a aftermarket clutch, they wouldn't comply,It's part of the powertrain is it not? what they told me.

 

yikes. gonna have to learn to drive better.

and that doesnt just mean learning how to operate a stick
but also realising that you cannot expect every car to act the way your last one did.
every car is different, YOU have to adapt and drive it how it needs to be driven.
not expect the car to put up with your mistakes.

 

i would just like to say i got the lemons of the balts, i replaced my first clutch at 55,000 kms and just replaced it again at 74,100 kms but this time i put in the BULLY stage II and never had a problem with it since, but my entire clutch system was screwed, it was grabbing too hard (no play in the clutch) the linkage was screwed and everything like that, the mech that test drove my car told me the the linkage is knowen to crap out in them. also my boost gage hasn't worked since i don;t know when, the most recent problem is... i managed to blow up both spyder gears which blew a hole in the front houseing, ground down in the tranny untill it gave out and pissed all the oil onto my clutch, i took my car to the dealer ship and they are not willing to cover this problem because i have raceing stickers on my car, i'm in a car club called TEAM 440, and i have a CSCS raceing, support the troops on the spoiler and FM AUDIO, not to mention the car seat in the back. i'm now cutting my losses with this car and giveing it back unless someone has a better idea on what i should do. i'm looking at about 5-7 g to fix this car

anyone needs parts
???????

 

jesus how hard do you drive that thing.

 

when i first got the car i riped it everywhere but after about 3 months i calmed my ass down, i recently had a baby so out of the year and a bit of owning the car i have been easy on it because i either had my prego wife in the car or my newborn, like i mentioned i just got the lemon of the balts

 

*bangs head on wall*

 

I know how to drive manual well and i had 4 clutches waranteed and one of them they didnt even get out of the lot without it blowing. they got it down the 5th time. The pressure plate was tapered and wasnt makeing contact for more than 2in. Manufactureing problem

 

mine blew out on me too but they covered the clutch and tranny at around 14,000

 

all i can say is you need to adjust your driving style to suit the car. my old cavalier had a rather light clutch that wasnt grabby, and that was a bully stage 2, however it was a torquey v6. getting the cobalt it was a bit interesting trying to drive the first few days as it has a grabby clutch and no torque. now ive only put about 1000km on the car, but the clutch seems good. i know the previous owner drag raced it with slicks and he never had issues.

the only advice i can give you is dont be afraid to rev the motor up and let the clutch out fast. i continually see cars in at work showing lots of heat checks but no signs of abuse. basicly all that causes this is slipping the clutch out on take off. the more you slip it, the more heat is created, the more wear is put on it.

 

i drive my 2.2 like i stole it, ask hockeyman lol! at 12k and the clutch is still strong as when i got it

 

driver mod ftW!

 

the 2.2l clutch is a lot better, its easy to slip it out and drive it like any run of the mill fwd as its only 148hp and lacks torque overall. the ss/sc clutch needs to be grabby being its trying to hold 205+hp. couple a grabby clutch with no torque right off idle, but torque that comes up quickly after, it makes a clutch thats a bit hard to get used to.

 

i have a o7 only had in 13 months and with 14000 miles and the clutch is gone. at first the dealer said it wasn't covered but then i called the gm regional manger's office and they said it was so im taking it to the dealer i got the car from 2day and the will give me a real answer ill post later what happens but as soon as i can im getting a stage 2 and keep the stock 1 just in case.

 

i got my car staged 2 and i have 17k on my ss/sc and i have one dealer telling me it my clutch slipping a little but then the other dealer is saying they are 100 percent sure its not the clutch. so i dont know what to do. but they want a little over a grand to fix it. but if i punch it in first and go to shift to 2nd the rpms rev up its like its in nutral but thats the only time it seems to slip i can climb hills in 5th gear when i should be in 3rd and it wont slip at all. any one else have any problems like this?

 

Same here 60k+ miles on stock clutch and still cant burn 2nd. Also about 40+ of these miles were with 250hp

 

I also lost my clutch at 14k. i have 40k on my car now and no problems. I went with SPEC stage 3 clutch and refaced stock flywheel

i had that problem right before my clutch completely went out, i ignored it for a while then it eventually got worse where i couldn't even use my cruise control without getting kicked out. I'm sure me racing with it slipping didn't do much good either.

 

you guys realize this is from 2007?

learn how to drive stick.