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Steady state temperatures definitely can indicate an improvement in airflow regardless of load. If steady state temperature under similar conditions is lower than before the addition that indicates higher efficiency.
Unless you're in a climate controlled windtunel on a mustang dyno you're not in the same conditions. You don't understand what I mean when I say you're not stressing the coolant system. Now it's possible you have lower coolant due to a decreased charge temp, the way to tell would be to remove everything but the ducting for the air intake. What you've proven it your current setup is better than previous which I don't recall what you had for an intake duct or what cooling setup for heat exchanger
Unless you're in a climate controlled windtunel on a mustang dyno you're not in the same conditions. You don't understand what I mean when I say you're not stressing the coolant system. Now it's possible you have lower coolant due to a decreased charge temp, the way to tell would be to remove everything but the ducting for the air intake. What you've proven it your current setup is better than previous which I don't recall what you had for an intake duct or what cooling setup for heat exchanger
I had a front mount S3 h/e from ZZP only. No baffling. Air damn and everything as stock as possible but I did have to notch around the front mount. And I do understand but I also understand that if I have improved or held identical airflow under cruising conditions that the same will be true for road course although the effect will be amplified as you have indicated.
"What you've proven it your current setup is better than previous"
This is all I am trying to prove! I never claimed superior cooling. Just confidently asserting that it is not worse than stock as I have been told it is.
The opening for the air to exit from underneath is not blocked off in any way!
John may have seen setups with similarities to mine but I don't think anyone had this exact setup. Also, look at this picture and tell me how I am hindering bottom evacuation of air from the radiator. My plate does not extend beyond the rear of the radiator.
I'm guessing you no longer have the OEM air deflector? Even while working for GM, that was one of the best items to get back on the car for poor cooling and poor AC Condenser heat transfer. Mine is back on and back to cooling again.
I'm guessing you no longer have the OEM air deflector? Even while working for GM, that was one of the best items to get back on the car for poor cooling and poor AC Condenser heat transfer. Mine is back on and back to cooling again.
I don't have poor cooling and poor AC Condenser heat transfer lol that is what I have been trying to prove! But I'm not sure what deflector you are talking about. I retained everything I could that wouldn't have to be hacked beyond recognition to make work when I got the supercharger kit. I don't remember removing any deflectors but that was 2 years ago and when I had ZERO Cobalt knowledge. Supercharger kit was the first thing I ever did to my car or any vehicle besides CAI and exhaust.
Our radiators are less effective than the SS radiators so I have an SS radiator and dual fan setup coming. Going to run a fan cooled trans cooler and remote oil cooler.
The biggest expense is the rpd it self. They go for like 250 or 300 bucks. I wired mine myself. And I have to fabricate an A pillar since sedans never got rpd's and our pillars are longer. A coupe guy just needs a coupe rpd pillar. Imagine you could find 1 for 50 or 100 bucks.
Didn't say you did....
The factory air dam takes air that goes under the car and redirects it into the radiator. You covered that whole area.
Well thank you for posting this. Now I know what the hell John was talking about on facebook about missing a "chin spoiler". Did all Cobalts get that even the base base models? Not saying I never had it for sure but that piece doesn't look familiar at all and I sure don't remember it.
Edit: What is it attached to? Is it in front or in line with the AC condenser? Is it's main function to scoop air from underneath up or does it create a low pressure zone behind it aiding in air evacuation from the radiator? I would think on Cobalt racecar setups with a big lower air damn and splitter like Foximus that this chin spoiler would be rendered useless because you would think it would have to dip down into the air-stream under the car to work. Would be interested in learning more about the details of how this thing works.
Will someone with a 2006 Cobalt LS take a picture of this same area for me?
The biggest expense is the rpd it self. They go for like 250 or 300 bucks. I wired mine myself. And I have to fabricate an A pillar since sedans never got rpd's and our pillars are longer. A coupe guy just needs a coupe rpd pillar. Imagine you could find 1 for 50 or 100 bucks.
Are you going to make the pillar yourself? I need one to add to my sedan lol
If you don't mind do you have a any type of wiring diagram that u used to know what wires to install to what or maybe if you took some pics?
I used the best cobalt resource of the internet! And yes I have access to a plastic welder I'm gonna fabricate one myself. I have a coupe rpd pillar I'm gonna splice with a sedan pillar. I have an extra rpd I'm gonna post for sale soon here. Picked up one from a guy on here, then found a deal on a pillar plus rpd so I have an extra.
link to wiring:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-guide-43/quick-how-installing-rpd-uaf-184256/
I used the best cobalt resource of the internet! And yes I have access to a plastic welder I'm gonna fabricate one myself. I have a coupe rpd pillar I'm gonna splice with a sedan pillar. I have an extra rpd I'm gonna post for sale soon here. Picked up one from a guy on here, then found a deal on a pillar plus rpd so I have an extra.
link to wiring: https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-...pd-uaf-184256/
Yeah I have a extra coupe rpd pillar, if you don't mind maybe we could work somethi bff out for you to make me one pillar. I have those links already lol but all pics are gone now
Yeah I have a extra coupe rpd pillar, if you don't mind maybe we could work somethi bff out for you to make me one pillar. I have those links already lol but all pics are gone now
ya dude let me see how mine turns out and I'll post pictures of my work. And that link is super easy to follow. Your dlc just needs 5 wires tied in, two go to your oem boost gauge connector and your done. No major disassembly and you just follow wire colors on that post. The 4 data wires, you're just cutting 2 wires at the dlc. A tan and a tan/black and wiring 1 wires into each side of your cut. I can take pics if ya like.
If anyone is interested in a poor mans RPD, although not as aesthetically pleasing, you can use a Bluetooth OBD scanner and an old android phone to access and display the same information. I use this Arkon phone mount even during autocross and it is awesome, holds phone in place.
Thanks man plus already did a drive from Nashville to elpaso and well it was 16 or 17 hours long lol and I know tail of the dragon is alittle farther away
09-25-2017, 10:42 AM
