Bump stop cutting, Alignments, Camber kits for Lowering Springs
03-06-2009 | 12:14 PM
#101
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From: Nashville
Okay, first, do you have Prokits, or Sportlines? Because there are no Pro sportlines. Second. If you read the very first post of the thread, it says you should always get an alignment when you do springs. Yes, there are lots of people that don't. That doesn't mean they shouldn't have.
I work tooooo much, don't want to work to find stuff out
03-18-2009 | 04:10 PM
#104
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From: Southington, CT
It seems a have a bit of negative camber in the front. now i read what you posted and there may be some suspension damage? If so, how would I go about getting that fixed. Also I know this may be off topic but when im driving on the high way and Im going around 60mph I get some vibration but just below and higher than 60 I have no issue.
03-19-2009 | 12:39 PM
#105
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I'm old school
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From: Nashville
Vibration is a result of either off balance wheels or warped rotors, but probably not alignment.
As for the camber, a typical GM shop with alignment capability does have the ability to make corrections. For camber specifically, you can use camber bolts, or cut slots in the strut.
As for the camber, a typical GM shop with alignment capability does have the ability to make corrections. For camber specifically, you can use camber bolts, or cut slots in the strut.
03-19-2009 | 02:31 PM
#106
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From: Southington, CT
At my school we have an alignment machine so would I be able to just do it myself? And as far as rotors go I machined them once at school so maybe I should try balancing my rims and see what happends.
03-22-2009 | 12:21 AM
#107
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From: Port Perry Ontario
To help with the increasing number of repeating threads asking about lowering spring installations, here is a new sticky!
I would like people to post the ACTUAL instructions they recieve with their springs when they buy them. If you don't have instructions, then only post a cut amount if you can back it up with manufacturer data.
You should NEVER cut your bump stops on your car unless your springs instructions specifically tell you to. You should ABSOLUTELY NEVER just remove the stops completely.
An alignment is REQUIRED after a spring installation. On the Delta platform cars, the front struts are not adjustable. You can't change the camber without cutting slots in your struts. Therefor, you do NOT need an alignment kit. However, you will need to adjust your toe, which is done via the steering tie rods. If during your alignment you find your camber is out of tolerance, that is an indication of a bigger problem, probably suspension damage.
I'll start. Here are the instructions for the Eibach Pro-Kit:
Here was my alignment data:
I would like people to post the ACTUAL instructions they recieve with their springs when they buy them. If you don't have instructions, then only post a cut amount if you can back it up with manufacturer data.
You should NEVER cut your bump stops on your car unless your springs instructions specifically tell you to. You should ABSOLUTELY NEVER just remove the stops completely.
An alignment is REQUIRED after a spring installation. On the Delta platform cars, the front struts are not adjustable. You can't change the camber without cutting slots in your struts. Therefor, you do NOT need an alignment kit. However, you will need to adjust your toe, which is done via the steering tie rods. If during your alignment you find your camber is out of tolerance, that is an indication of a bigger problem, probably suspension damage.
I'll start. Here are the instructions for the Eibach Pro-Kit:
Here was my alignment data:
03-22-2009 | 12:24 AM
#108
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From: Jacksonville, FL
04-24-2009 | 03:39 AM
#109
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From: Alaska & Fort lewis, WA
Yeah if you understand what your doing its fairly ez to do yourself. Although toe is the only factory adjustable angle. If your camber is out of spec you'll need camber bolts to adjust the front, and camber shims for the rear ( which are a pain in the butt to install). If your caster is out of spec its due to a bent part that needs replacement. But all in all you should only have to work with camber n toe, and those r ez to adjust, jus make sure to torque down all bolts to spec torque. O n def check the balance on ur wheels, that'll cause vibration but itll b at all speeds, with an increase in severity of vibration with an increase in speed.
05-28-2009 | 02:51 PM
#110
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From: Denver, CO
Subscribed....good good thread....
Hey are the springs marked...I.E for front and rear also top and bottom?
Anybody know if the tire rotation spec is every 3000 miles for any lowering spring set or just for Eibach?
SSC springs on mine, came with ZERO instructions, I didn't cut any of the bump stops and it hits hard on good bumps so I may have to cut some. I also only pulled 6 bolts to replace my springs in the front, the 3 on top of the strut the 2 on the knuckle and the sway bar end link, so not sure why I would require an alignment as I didn't adjust the tie-rods at all, the distance didn't change, just the height. It drives straight as an arrow, and tire wear is even. I upgraded the rear shocks to the stiffer Fe5's and the bounce is gone. I will most likely have it aligned with this years inspection as I will have tires rotated at the same time oil change and all that, but hardly feel it is necessary. I also rarely drive it so maybe thats some of it I don't know, but I assumed if I didn't remove anything adjustable than everything should stay the same.
Anybody know if the tire rotation spec is every 3000 miles for any lowering spring set or just for Eibach?
Last edited by CobaltSSilver; 05-28-2009 at 02:51 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
05-28-2009 | 10:58 PM
#111
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From: Fayetteville/Linden, NC/Myrtle Beach, SC
rotation spec is claimed for every car reguardless of suspension, aslong as your allignment is good you can let it slip a little. It is all about tire life man.
05-29-2009 | 05:29 PM
#113
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From: Fayetteville/Linden, NC/Myrtle Beach, SC
Well with a good alignment you dont really need to but when i bought my balt I didnt do it and that resulted in the rear tires needing replaced in 6k miles. For some reason the dealership "aligned" it and put so many shims at the bottom of the rear hub it was 5 degrees negitive camber.
05-29-2009 | 05:49 PM
#114
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From: Nashville
You really only have to rotate on a consistent schedule, not a specific one. Meaning, you don't have to rotate every 3000. But if you do, you should keep doing it every 3000. I do it every other oil change, just like it says to do in the owners manual.
05-29-2009 | 11:32 PM
#115
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From: Denver, CO
Thanks for the info folks!
06-12-2009 | 12:29 AM
#118
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From: Land of Freedom
swaybar endlink, just had that problem and replaced mine yesterday
06-12-2009 | 05:25 AM
#120
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From: Denver, CO
06-12-2009 | 10:50 AM
#121
Haz l33t wheelz.
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From: Costa Mesa CA
the endlinks wouldn't cause shaking. i blew one to pieces hitting a pothole, and the link was just dangling there, still had no shaking or vibrations, just less roll resistance.
06-12-2009 | 02:40 PM
#123
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From: Denver, CO
I think they have you cut the bump stops so that you don't hit as early....that is my educated guess.....if you are not hitting them right now you can get by, but down the road you are going to bounce off of them (I would think) otherwise that is the function....or so I see it and am told.
06-12-2009 | 08:49 PM
#124
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From: Virginia
I think they have you cut the bump stops so that you don't hit as early....that is my educated guess.....if you are not hitting them right now you can get by, but down the road you are going to bounce off of them (I would think) otherwise that is the function....or so I see it and am told.