The Coilover Thread!
#151
yes! that is a resounding yes! haha, my car has changed whole lanes on me without the steering wheel moving. Coilovers tend to lower the car even more than springs, making the bump steer issue worse.
Where did you find that out?
Where did you find that out?
Last edited by ls1fbody; 12-17-2009 at 01:13 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#152
Some of us were talking about suspension options today and this topic came up. People had ideas of why it could be either way, but this helps a bunch to know now. Thanks.
#153
well, if you were to raise it up to stock ride height, then no, rack spacers would not be a necessity. But, if you're like 99.999999% of cobalt owners, you'll slam it into impracticality...
#157
Hmmm. I just cant see this whole deal....put on TC struts and shocks, pay 1.98 and have a great handling car for street and track.
I mean anyone here heading for NASA/SCCA/Grand Am with their car? I didnt think so....
#158
Race again? Would love to, but my wife and I agreed that I'd stay out until we move closer to DC. I made that deal before the housing market tanked... Now I have to be content going out for school weekends. I think the Cobalt would be a great low cost option for racing though.
I've personally never owned coilovers that costed more than about 3000. My primary race car had linearly valved shocks, and I've driven on quite a few "cheap" (less than 3k) monotube Japanese/Korean/etc coilovers (Bilstein excluded here, as they're in a different category, IMO). They've been less forgiving, and harder to setup than something like revalved and (properly) shortened Konis or Bilsteins.
On the higher cost options, I'd find it hard to believe that both the compression and rebound are linear like you would find on something like a KSport. From what I've seen and read, at least one is typically digressive. Adjustment should be linear though (and predictable, which is more than you can say for many low cost options).
Convince me otherwise. I'm quite open to change through facts and evidence
I already have a TC, so no need to swap the struts or shocks til they get older. At that point, it's likely that I'll just get a set of Konis, unless someone has some serious track time on coilovers or shocks that have good bang for the buck.
I've personally never owned coilovers that costed more than about 3000. My primary race car had linearly valved shocks, and I've driven on quite a few "cheap" (less than 3k) monotube Japanese/Korean/etc coilovers (Bilstein excluded here, as they're in a different category, IMO). They've been less forgiving, and harder to setup than something like revalved and (properly) shortened Konis or Bilsteins.
On the higher cost options, I'd find it hard to believe that both the compression and rebound are linear like you would find on something like a KSport. From what I've seen and read, at least one is typically digressive. Adjustment should be linear though (and predictable, which is more than you can say for many low cost options).
Convince me otherwise. I'm quite open to change through facts and evidence
I already have a TC, so no need to swap the struts or shocks til they get older. At that point, it's likely that I'll just get a set of Konis, unless someone has some serious track time on coilovers or shocks that have good bang for the buck.
#159
Race again? Would love to, but my wife and I agreed that I'd stay out until we move closer to DC. I made that deal before the housing market tanked... Now I have to be content going out for school weekends. I think the Cobalt would be a great low cost option for racing though.
I've personally never owned coilovers that costed more than about 3000. My primary race car had linearly valved shocks, and I've driven on quite a few "cheap" (less than 3k) monotube Japanese/Korean/etc coilovers (Bilstein excluded here, as they're in a different category, IMO). They've been less forgiving, and harder to setup than something like revalved and (properly) shortened Konis or Bilsteins.
On the higher cost options, I'd find it hard to believe that both the compression and rebound are linear like you would find on something like a KSport. From what I've seen and read, at least one is typically digressive. Adjustment should be linear though (and predictable, which is more than you can say for many low cost options).
Convince me otherwise. I'm quite open to change through facts and evidence
I already have a TC, so no need to swap the struts or shocks til they get older. At that point, it's likely that I'll just get a set of Konis, unless someone has some serious track time on coilovers or shocks that have good bang for the buck.
I've personally never owned coilovers that costed more than about 3000. My primary race car had linearly valved shocks, and I've driven on quite a few "cheap" (less than 3k) monotube Japanese/Korean/etc coilovers (Bilstein excluded here, as they're in a different category, IMO). They've been less forgiving, and harder to setup than something like revalved and (properly) shortened Konis or Bilsteins.
On the higher cost options, I'd find it hard to believe that both the compression and rebound are linear like you would find on something like a KSport. From what I've seen and read, at least one is typically digressive. Adjustment should be linear though (and predictable, which is more than you can say for many low cost options).
Convince me otherwise. I'm quite open to change through facts and evidence
I already have a TC, so no need to swap the struts or shocks til they get older. At that point, it's likely that I'll just get a set of Konis, unless someone has some serious track time on coilovers or shocks that have good bang for the buck.
#160
#161
so of all the coilovers ksport, megan, bc, pedders, are they all pretty much the same thing ???
i dont know if i should spend the money to get something thats not ksport bc mine just broke on me or if i should just get some TC suspension w/ some lowering springs and call it a day
i dont know if i should spend the money to get something thats not ksport bc mine just broke on me or if i should just get some TC suspension w/ some lowering springs and call it a day
#162
I'm set on coilovers for my car come early spring 2010, I'm not sure what ones are worth the dough.
Car is used for Daily Driving, all year round. I am willing to put up with a harsh ride for increased handling, and a low stance.
I was thinking either B&G, or Pedders. If Pedders are Megans, I'll get megans cause they are cheaper.
What do the suspension gurus recomend?
Car is used for Daily Driving, all year round. I am willing to put up with a harsh ride for increased handling, and a low stance.
I was thinking either B&G, or Pedders. If Pedders are Megans, I'll get megans cause they are cheaper.
What do the suspension gurus recomend?
#163
the only real difference the BCs have is the actual strut mount. the majority of the system is also nearly identical to these.
Pedders runs them on a dyno? I dont know, maybe, but what good would it do? quality control I guess as they arent adjustable(internally)/rebuildable. I havent heard stories about Megans falling apart or horribly uneven handling(indicative of improper valving from damper to damper) so like I said, till proven otherwise.......I think the Pedders may be overpriced. They even use the exact same springs it seems, so I wonder how much extra work was put into the valving. Id love to hear otherwise because I am a big fan of most Pedders products, Id hate to learn that they truly did do what I think they did.
Pedders runs them on a dyno? I dont know, maybe, but what good would it do? quality control I guess as they arent adjustable(internally)/rebuildable. I havent heard stories about Megans falling apart or horribly uneven handling(indicative of improper valving from damper to damper) so like I said, till proven otherwise.......I think the Pedders may be overpriced. They even use the exact same springs it seems, so I wonder how much extra work was put into the valving. Id love to hear otherwise because I am a big fan of most Pedders products, Id hate to learn that they truly did do what I think they did.
Maven: FYI I learned to day that Pedders ( now have a new canadian distributor I know very well was talking to them today) do 200 + million $ on the home market (Oz) annually. Not a small outfit. Very good people according to my source...products are excellent afaik for springs but you found them first. and they do coil overs for Redlines which makes them PRIMO in my book
Jordan: shock dyno on non adjustable shocks for what? for leaks?Jordan you are switched on for sure, but it would surprise me if they did but I will ask the question
Jordan: shock dyno on non adjustable shocks for what? for leaks?Jordan you are switched on for sure, but it would surprise me if they did but I will ask the question
I'd like to talk with you about our 09' SS/TC sometime. I've got pretty much all of the parts already and I'll be on the track either late February or late March depending on the weather. I'm very serious about running NASA Nationals this year and I want to be competitive. I know you've got the info I need! Talk to you soon!
Alright! I got the coil overs installed and here are some before and after pictures. I think the ride quality on the street is "tighter" at a setting of 10 all the way around compared to the factory units but that is what I wanted! I haven't fine tuned them yet or corner balanced but it's on rails!!!!! The install was very straight forward and everything fit perfectly.
Before
After
I didn't go that low because I'm going for ultimate performance but it looks 100% better than it did. IMHO they are way to high in the rear from the factory....
Kind regards,
Last edited by JDP Motorsports; 01-28-2010 at 02:02 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#167
Our ARK DT-P Coilover System comes with camber adjustments, plate adjustment as well. In addition, the DT-P comes with adjustable dampers. We are offering an awesome Semi-Sponsorship deal on these coilovers. Try us out.
#169
i bought stance coilovers and installed the rear ones. i don't want to install the fronts yet cause of a clung sound on the front which mean endlink fail and i will need rack spacers even more. and i want the front sway bar. so i have to buy all together and drop it in all.
but i have to save for closing cost.
but i have to save for closing cost.
#172
#173
Sorry for taking so long to reply. I've been out of town for my job and haven't been on here for a while.
No special tools really. I'd recommend having two jack stands and a jack at a minimum though. Having another stand or jack in addition to that would be helpful in some of the stages. Doing the coilovers on mine was actually easier than doing my friend's Pedders springs, due to the fact you just take off and replace the whole units instead of needing to also disassemble and reassemble them too.
One tip I'd give is to cut the bumpstops on the back just a bit. The amount we cut mine ended up being just right IMO. Keep all the stock bumpstop materials and cut "the head off and leave the shaft". When you get to that point, you'll know what I mean.
No special tools really. I'd recommend having two jack stands and a jack at a minimum though. Having another stand or jack in addition to that would be helpful in some of the stages. Doing the coilovers on mine was actually easier than doing my friend's Pedders springs, due to the fact you just take off and replace the whole units instead of needing to also disassemble and reassemble them too.
One tip I'd give is to cut the bumpstops on the back just a bit. The amount we cut mine ended up being just right IMO. Keep all the stock bumpstop materials and cut "the head off and leave the shaft". When you get to that point, you'll know what I mean.
#175
none of these coilovers are worth what they cost imo, had ksports for a couple of years, over time they became unbearable, the front setup was decent. the rear setup is so underdampened, hit a bump, pothole, or even just and unsmooth road and your gonna feel the ass end bouncing like crazy. so if your gonna buy cheap, might as well buy the cheapest you can find cause there all garbage.