I need to replace my control Arm Bushings. Just wondering I have an 05 2.2L
which means I have the FE1 suspension. I know the control arms themselves are interchangeable between the models but can I use these?

http://intense-racing.com/Merchant2/...LSJ_Suspension

Also I was told they came out with a new style of bushing as the older ones wear out fast, just wondering if anyone knew the part number on the new style?

 

do yourself a favour and dont bguy/ install these. There should be a law about selling this stuff; when it wears out, which it will in very short time, the effect on brakling and steering is a whole heaping plate of Not Good. This is because this flca inner joint has to move in and out as it goes up and down, so the poly cant do that as it wont stretch and go back (lol) and ends up destroying itself. There are threads with pictures of such bushings totally screwed. I am told that GM did a stiffer bushing than FE5 for SCCA racing but I cant find it ..go with FE5 alloy arms thats the best, you gotta buy the whole arm and do it in pairs as the arms are slightly different from the steel arms and move the road wheel forward a bit...

 

Awesome, thanks for the advice, I'll try and see if I can find these alloy control arms.
Hopefully it'll help tighten up my suspension

 

This isn't directly related to this thread, but I didn't feel like starting a new one.

Last summer I started to do the DIY mod to fill the CABs w/ urethane, but once I got the control arms off, realized that the actual gaps were very tiny and didn't see how it would even make a difference to fill them. I put everything back together and ever since, my front suspension has very subtly "clunked" when hitting certain bumps. Does anyone have the torque specs for the control arm bolts or an idea on what I could have possibly done? Thanks.

 

yes the control arm bolts through that trailing position bushing hold the cradle /engine assembly to the unit body, VIP. The do wear out, and i fyou have Fe1 contact OTTP for help Josh can help you with parts. GM specs "control arm to rear frame bolts 148 ft. lbs. Control arm to front frame bolts 41 ft lbs" ..."ball joint to control arm steering knuckle nut 37 ft lbs first pass, reverse 3/4 turn, then 37 ft lbs + 30 degrees"; you need to check this specification. PM me for more or pm Maven... good luck

 

I had my control arm bushings on my old cobalt replaced last spring, i think it cost me like. Aftermarket bushings are much more expensive and only last a fraction of the time. Just go with stock.

 

Thanks a lot, I will check these when I get home tonight. I'm thinking that I may have just not tightened them back up good enough. I've had bad experiences in the past w/ overtightening, so I was probably a little cautious.

Another question, does it matter if there is a load on the arms when I tighten them? Like should the car be resting on the ground as normal or jacked up or what? Thanks for the info. again.

 

No, you dont need to torque the bolts with vehicle at ride height, you can do it with vehicvle jacked up.

Forget those poly bushings, its been covered, but youll regret getting those, for only $50-75 more you can get upgrade to the SS/SC aluminum lower control arms, youll be much happier in the long run with them. Not to mention they are easier to install.

If youve got a clunk in the front end, inspect the lower control arm bushing and make sure its not popping out of the arm, they like to do this. the beushing comes out of place in the arm and then the arm hits the cradle.

Oh, Part numbers: 15803766/15803767