Mookeeh (ebay) universal camber plates.
#1
Mookeeh (ebay) universal camber plates.
For anyone interested in running a camber plate on the stock struts. Here's a rundown of whats involved. This is also not using the stock upper spring perch as i'm on coil-over sleeves.
My reason for the camber plate is of course camber (return to stock after lowering), and to gain more clearance between the strut body and spring top hat.
Plate sectioning is 6MM aluminium
The pillow ball housing is Steel ,and the pillow ball appears to be replaceable
These plates are blank so you have to mark and drill your own holes. I recommend using a drill press.
Just a shot of the stock top hat next to the aftermarket one.
The threads of the strut shaft are too short for a standard nut.
temporary solution, took a king nut,and my dremel, used a cut off wheel to trim off chunks ,sanding drum for smoothing and hand files for finishing.
I'm going to have these professorially milled down.
Sturt assembled, Camber plate / 5/8 X 1/4 Tapered washer / Grade 8 washers. The the tapered washer is only a tiny bit larger than the hole in the spring perch so the washers are there to make a larger ledge.
Installed in my filthy engine bay.
underside
My reason for the camber plate is of course camber (return to stock after lowering), and to gain more clearance between the strut body and spring top hat.
Plate sectioning is 6MM aluminium
The pillow ball housing is Steel ,and the pillow ball appears to be replaceable
These plates are blank so you have to mark and drill your own holes. I recommend using a drill press.
Just a shot of the stock top hat next to the aftermarket one.
The threads of the strut shaft are too short for a standard nut.
temporary solution, took a king nut,and my dremel, used a cut off wheel to trim off chunks ,sanding drum for smoothing and hand files for finishing.
I'm going to have these professorially milled down.
Sturt assembled, Camber plate / 5/8 X 1/4 Tapered washer / Grade 8 washers. The the tapered washer is only a tiny bit larger than the hole in the spring perch so the washers are there to make a larger ledge.
Installed in my filthy engine bay.
underside
#4
pulse as you mentioned the pillow ball is a pulse,on top of that the stock top hate made the upper spring perch sit low limiting strut travel, this way the spring perch is higher in the strut tower.
stock tophat
I need an alignment the steering feel is more precises, ride quality isn't to bad, its ridged but not bouncy, im actually surprised how well the stock struts and shocks handle the stiffer springs. I was looking into konis but now i may just go with SS/TC shocks and struts.
#6
did you install the konis your self? are they physically shorter than stock?
I've been looking at them or some other strut insert to make a shortened (reduced travel ) strut.
#8
Thanks , its a huge PITA to try and source shorter inserts, the only company that openly publishes all dimensions of there products is monroe.
although koni dose offer this but its kinda overkill for my needs Koni North America - Racing Division - 8610 Externally double adjustable racing strut insert.
I plan to track the car some ,but its primary purpose is a daily driver,id prefer to save the pricey race stuff for my project car.
although koni dose offer this but its kinda overkill for my needs Koni North America - Racing Division - 8610 Externally double adjustable racing strut insert.
I plan to track the car some ,but its primary purpose is a daily driver,id prefer to save the pricey race stuff for my project car.
#11
I had 2 sets, one was for BMW 3 series ,the other for a 3G eclipse.The set from the 3G were drop zone, i have no idea what brand the BMW set where. I got both sets close to 8-9 years ago. I was gonna trash them ,decided to experiment. The springs are from the Set for the BMW, 450 and 350 is quite a bit harsh , the the 450 upfront is needed to keep the struts from bottoming out on the front.
I'm rebuilding the struts right now,waiting on my koni 8610-1436 race inserts to arrive.
The inserts body are only 11.4"s so they will allow me to shorten the body of the strut,and the compressed length of the insert is only 12" to the bottom of the pin. Once the struts are done i wont have to worry about the strut bottoming out(as much). I'll most likely end up replacing all the springs Eibach,
Yes the ride is abit ridged lol.
#12
very well done sir, please keep this thread updated when you get that stuff done, I love suspesnion work. That is what I have done for the past 10 years or so on all my trucks, jeeps, etc.
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