Pedders Springs install
12-18-2010, 07:17 PM
#6
Rack spacers are recommended to minimize bump steer.
Bump stops don't need to be cut, but you can get away with cutting just the "dome" without any negative effects.
Some people have had to trim the little lip on the top of the rear spring seats, but your mileage may vary as not all pedders are coiled the same at their ends.
Definitely get an alignment.
Bump stops don't need to be cut, but you can get away with cutting just the "dome" without any negative effects.
Some people have had to trim the little lip on the top of the rear spring seats, but your mileage may vary as not all pedders are coiled the same at their ends.
Definitely get an alignment.
12-19-2010, 02:16 AM
#8
You'll need an alignment after. Get rack spacers, the thin ones, unless you have rotated engine mounts.
I'd advise loosening the front big strut nut while the car is fully loaded. It will be easier, since it won't want to turn as much. For the rear springs, I had to trim the bumpstops and break out a mini torch to get them to go into the poorly shaped spring ends. You'll see when you try to put them in. Some people managed to just lube and put them in, but mine were no where close. Make sure you put them right side up.
I'd advise loosening the front big strut nut while the car is fully loaded. It will be easier, since it won't want to turn as much. For the rear springs, I had to trim the bumpstops and break out a mini torch to get them to go into the poorly shaped spring ends. You'll see when you try to put them in. Some people managed to just lube and put them in, but mine were no where close. Make sure you put them right side up.
12-19-2010, 11:35 AM
#9
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You'll need an alignment after. Get rack spacers, the thin ones, unless you have rotated engine mounts.
I'd advise loosening the front big strut nut while the car is fully loaded. It will be easier, since it won't want to turn as much. For the rear springs, I had to trim the bumpstops and break out a mini torch to get them to go into the poorly shaped spring ends. You'll see when you try to put them in. Some people managed to just lube and put them in, but mine were no where close. Make sure you put them right side up.
I'd advise loosening the front big strut nut while the car is fully loaded. It will be easier, since it won't want to turn as much. For the rear springs, I had to trim the bumpstops and break out a mini torch to get them to go into the poorly shaped spring ends. You'll see when you try to put them in. Some people managed to just lube and put them in, but mine were no where close. Make sure you put them right side up.
12-19-2010, 04:43 PM
#10
Oh, one more thing. Make absolutely sure that the front spring mount and top hat are turned the right direction! Before you compress and disassemble the stock setup, notice the paint marks. You need to put it back together with the paint marks lined up. Or just turn the tab (you'll see it) inwards, towards the engine. I face it directly opposite of the knuckle mount.
12-19-2010, 06:18 PM
#11
Senior Member
Note to Wangspeed, good guy with good advice; the tab of top plate has to line up with end of spring coil at top. Pedders are cut differently from GM often, so the tab position will not always face in as a result....
12-20-2010, 08:04 PM
#14
Yeah. Overall I give them a 4 out of 5. For street and light track use, they're good. I ding them the 5th star because they don't publish any spring rates, and the fronts, as I've found, are a little too soft for more serious track work. Of course, to maintain balance, if the fronts got increased, so would the rear. I get some coil bind up front, as evidenced by the fact that I've worn off the powder coat where they bind. Also, for springs this expensive, they could at least wind the ends on the rear springs in a circle, not a D pattern. That's pretty poor given how much we're paying for them.
I think the Pedders + OTTP/PRS rear sway bar are more than the rear shocks gracefully handle. I didn't think much of it til I moved to Konis. There's quite a difference, and that's with the Konis adjusted conservatively. If I ever get my shock dyno plots back, I'll share them.
Do I think they're good? Sure, but they're overpriced for what they are (or aren't).
I think the Pedders + OTTP/PRS rear sway bar are more than the rear shocks gracefully handle. I didn't think much of it til I moved to Konis. There's quite a difference, and that's with the Konis adjusted conservatively. If I ever get my shock dyno plots back, I'll share them.
Do I think they're good? Sure, but they're overpriced for what they are (or aren't).
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