HB_SS/TC

iTrader: (1)

^^^maybe you need the allen wrench?

Like https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/show...light=End+link

YelloEye

iTrader: (3)

Yes they are

Enkei PF01
Size: 18x8
Price: $306 (each)
Offset: 40mm
Backspacing: 6.02"
Bolt Pattern: 5-110
Rec. Tire Size:225/40-18
Weight: 18.6lbs.

Use an impact, I bought an Electric impact at Harbor Freight For $30 on sale, they always have good deals on tools in general. But if you have an air compresser obviously you would want to get and air impact wrench.

rallyracer

Thanks for the tips guys

occsdude

iTrader: (1)

thank you sir

Wangspeed

iTrader: (2)

Anyone else get some squeaking over bumps? I have a little bit of suspension noise up front now. The tabs are turned to the inside, and everything is properly tightened. I hear some noise while turning at low speed too.

rallyracer

/\ did u make sure to clean all the sand out of your lower plastic spring support in the strut.

We just installed a members on Saturday in his was full of sand, dirt, etc...

Not sure if that could cause any noise but just an idea.

Wangspeed

iTrader: (2)

I gave it a wipe, so I don't think that's the problem. Sounds almost like the strut cover rubbing or something.

I tried to get the endlinks and the part of the swaybar that it connects to in a straight line, so that the arm it's acting on is pretty perpendicular to the endlink. Hope that makes sense.

One other thing, I have the bottom of the spring properly seated in the white plastic ring. The top of the spring tilts considerably to one side though. It's symmetric on both sides.

ls1fbody

look at the first picture in my how too, there are flat spots on the flange there, you should be able to grip it with vice grips or a 16mm wrench.

do the tabs line up with the end of he spring?

Wangspeed

iTrader: (2)

Hmm, I don't recall if they do. I'll have to take a look tonight. I don't think there's much I can do if they don't line up though.

ls1fbody

Yeah, if they're lined up, just make sure it's all clean. Not sure of your mileage, but i know you push the car hard, what condition were your plastic seats in?

Wangspeed

iTrader: (2)

The seats were fine. I've only got 5k miles on the car. Just did my first oil change.

ls1fbody

Hrm...

I get some slight squeaking too, but i think most of it come from the rear. I'm gonna pull the shocks off this week, drive around a bit, and see if it's the springs.

Wangspeed

iTrader: (2)

I was thinking about disconnecting one side of my swaybar, but I highly doubt that's the problem.

ls1fbody

No, i don't think so either, if anything you could put a little vaseline on the bushings and see if it helps.

Stock endlinks?

Wangspeed

iTrader: (2)

Powergrids, though after looking at my stock ones, I think the powergrids weren't necessary. The Pedders don't lower the car much, so I don't really need adjustables, and my stock endlinks were fine. Oh well.

I checked the length while on some ramps, and they seem reasonable.

ls1fbody

mine are as short as they go.

I replaced mine because i ripped a stock one apart on a pothole. The joints are much beefier.

Dunno what to tell you. The plastic bearing in the top had may have issues, but with your mileage it shouldn't.

rallyracer

I just installed my rear Pedders about an hour ago...I think the noise that people get from the rear is from where the bump stop meets the car, maybe thats called that hat, not sure. I noticed the coils are pretty tight on the springs so its hard to get the bump stop seated 100% of the way down into the springs. I was able to get it about 70% of the way on...just a little past the metal ring. I then used the cars weight when I lowered it back down to the ground + I also hopped up and down on the rear bumper too to help seat them all the way in...I could hear them going in further. I think there now about 95%+ seated into the cars hats (could be wrong term). The coils are so damn tight that it could be stopping them from acheaving 100% and that whats making noice in the back...as you hit bumps it's trying to go that last 3-5% but just cant due to that tight ass coil. Mine have yet to make noise but I only took it on a few mile test drive.

This is all just a hunch but while installing this is what I was seeing and was the only thing I could think of that would cause noise in the REAR.

Hope some of this makes sence

Wangspeed

iTrader: (2)

Nope, my noise is from the front. Happens when I turn my wheel at low speed, and when the front wheels go over a speed bump. The rears are dead quiet.

I agree that the rears are wound way to tightly at the ends. The bumpstops do not fit. Mine probably would have cracked if I forced them on. I had to whittle them down a bit, and then take a torch to them. They deformed the metal ring on the bump stop, and deformed the plastic other stop too. I got them fully seated though.

Stamina

I'm not sure what this could be. We pulled off two Pedders installations on Saturday and haven't had any problems during or since.

rallyracer

/\ I think everyone was installing Pedders this past Saturday ...the worst part for us we getting the damn endlinks off

HB_SS/TC

iTrader: (1)

Something in the front strut isn't seated right. Mine made noise over speed bumps and I took the spring out and reinstalled it now the noise is gone

Wangspeed

iTrader: (2)

This took care of the endlinks for me :-)

http://www.motherofallcordlessimpactwrenches.com/

Worst part for me was that I couldn't find my 24mm socket to compress the springs. I had to turn the spring compressor by hand with an adjustable...

I had to take one side apart again because I had snapped a strut mount stud. I didn't see anything obvious. Spring was seated, tab was turned in, bolts tight, etc.

The only thing it looked like it could be is the strut boot rubbing the body of the strut.

Oh, and a word of advice, loosen the top strut nut just enough so that it's no longer on the locking portion of it, so that you can zip it off with an impact, or turn it by hand without having to put a torx key in. Don't take it all the way off... You'll bust your nuts or something else horrible.

rallyracer

These endlinks **** me off...just like the car I helped installed Pedders on this past Saturday, I cant get my damn endlinks off. 16mm wrench wont fit on the back so Ive been trying with a 17mm. I dont think the 17mm is biting on anything....Now it looks like I some how pulled part of the boot out from its retainer ring. AAAAaaaaaa...if we had decent endlinks with allen key hole in the bolt Id have my springs on my now.

On the other car we had to cut the bolts off and by some moog endlinks at the parts store.


Look like I may be in need of some Moog ones now too, Are they any good?

Stiner

you have to slide the boot on the endlink back a bit to expose the "nut" to get the wrench on properly. Your endlinks are shot is why you are having problems. OTTP sells powergrid inc endlinks buy those. if you can get some vicegrips on the endlinks try that you may have rounded it off already. They can be a bit of a bitch but you shouldn't need to cut them off

ls1fbody

Vice grips on the shaft. combination wrench w/cheater bar.

If you don't plan on re-using the links.