Powell's take on replacing bad control arm bushings.
08-25-2013 | 12:15 AM
#51
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: 01-12-10
Posts: 2,692
Likes: 171
From: Greater Denver Area, Colorado
well I am happy to say that YYZ springs are made in USA!! The best. Inspired by Wangspeed. Our sway bars are made in Canaduh from German sourced Chrome Moly purchased from a USA distributor. Inspired by Time Attack but a pure Powell idea.
Same for rotated mounts made in Canada. Inserts from....USA/Mexico/India...what month is it? China prolly next.
Our trap door pans made in Canada from OEM pans made in Israel, China or Chechoslovakia. I never know.
Our tow hooks are made in Canada of canadian steel with fasteners out of Indianapolis.
Our PCV upgrade setup was developed by me with engineering input from the USA, assembled in Canada. I suspect our Russell AN fittings are made in China. Our Mann Hummell seperators are.
OUr harness bars and UCR made in Canada, same thing applies for the Chrome Moly as above the DOM tube s canadian made.
etc. I am with Colordude but agree with USMC, and will say its very hard to match some prices of off shore stuff. 60% of the Camaro is made from parts sourced in China, the worlds largest car market.
and to all of you that buy our parts instead of the copies from other vendors here
thank you.
Same for rotated mounts made in Canada. Inserts from....USA/Mexico/India...what month is it? China prolly next.
Our trap door pans made in Canada from OEM pans made in Israel, China or Chechoslovakia. I never know.
Our tow hooks are made in Canada of canadian steel with fasteners out of Indianapolis.
Our PCV upgrade setup was developed by me with engineering input from the USA, assembled in Canada. I suspect our Russell AN fittings are made in China. Our Mann Hummell seperators are.
OUr harness bars and UCR made in Canada, same thing applies for the Chrome Moly as above the DOM tube s canadian made.
etc. I am with Colordude but agree with USMC, and will say its very hard to match some prices of off shore stuff. 60% of the Camaro is made from parts sourced in China, the worlds largest car market.
and to all of you that buy our parts instead of the copies from other vendors here
thank you.
Customer for life!
08-25-2013 | 12:22 AM
#52
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: 01-12-10
Posts: 2,692
Likes: 171
From: Greater Denver Area, Colorado
Check those bolts people! And then check them again after a few weeks!
08-25-2013 | 01:52 AM
#53
New Member
Joined: 05-19-12
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Toronto
Update: After installing my rear twisting beam bushings today (with thanks to ECaulk for all the help!) I decided to check the XXX bar bolts. The passenger side needed another 3/4 turn and the driver's side a full turn!! We were starting to question the torque wrench until it finally said "click"
Check those bolts people! And then check them again after a few weeks!
Check those bolts people! And then check them again after a few weeks!
08-25-2013 | 02:01 AM
#54
New Member
Joined: 05-19-12
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Toronto
08-25-2013 | 09:06 AM
#55
Update: After installing my rear twisting beam bushings today (with thanks to ECaulk for all the help!) I decided to check the XXX bar bolts. The passenger side needed another 3/4 turn and the driver's side a full turn!! We were starting to question the torque wrench until it finally said "click"
Check those bolts people! And then check them again after a few weeks!
Check those bolts people! And then check them again after a few weeks!
John installed some goodies for me the other day, and last on the list was his Hardcore bar. He snugged up the fasteners, and then pulled out his "new" clicker torque wrench and started torquing them down. He kept torquing and torquing and started to question whether the torque wrench was buggered since it didn't click. I had adjusted and locked the setting and began to think I screwed up. Then it finally clicked. Even John was surprised at how many turns it took before it clicked.
08-28-2013 | 08:16 PM
#57
Anyone else have suggestions on how to get siezed subframe bolts out? I was able to loosen them, and can feel that they backed out but the sleeve is spinning with the bolt, CAB 100% torn lol
soaking in PB blaster now to try again, then might try holding the sleeve with a pair of vice grips
soaking in PB blaster now to try again, then might try holding the sleeve with a pair of vice grips
08-28-2013 | 08:27 PM
#58
Anyone else have suggestions on how to get siezed subframe bolts out? I was able to loosen them, and can feel that they backed out but the sleeve is spinning with the bolt, CAB 100% torn lol
soaking in PB blaster now to try again, then might try holding the sleeve with a pair of vice grips
soaking in PB blaster now to try again, then might try holding the sleeve with a pair of vice grips
08-28-2013 | 09:06 PM
#59
Well after trying to do that the metal support that keeps the castle nut from spinning snapped and now the castle nut just rotates. ****!!!!
excuse my language, I'm just lost as to what to do....
I can try holding the castle nut with a wrench/pliers but I still can't get the bolt to back out from the subframe.
Close to just taking it somewhere, and I literally have never done that before.
excuse my language, I'm just lost as to what to do....
I can try holding the castle nut with a wrench/pliers but I still can't get the bolt to back out from the subframe.
Close to just taking it somewhere, and I literally have never done that before.
08-28-2013 | 09:45 PM
#60
Well after trying to do that the metal support that keeps the castle nut from spinning snapped and now the castle nut just rotates. ****!!!!
excuse my language, I'm just lost as to what to do....
I can try holding the castle nut with a wrench/pliers but I still can't get the bolt to back out from the subframe.
Close to just taking it somewhere, and I literally have never done that before.
excuse my language, I'm just lost as to what to do....
I can try holding the castle nut with a wrench/pliers but I still can't get the bolt to back out from the subframe.
Close to just taking it somewhere, and I literally have never done that before.
Remove the cradle; the engine can hang on the upper engine mounts. remove the plastic splash shields, the ball joint cross pins to the knuckle and the sway bar end links; the lower front engine mount cross bolt and the three rear cradle mount bolts, the steering rack bolts ( lock the steering wheel in place) and then undo all the cradle bolts, dropping the cradle.
you will be left with the control arms in place and you can now deal with removing the seized cab. Heat and a hammer on the end of the cradle bolt and it will now ( with a struggle) come out, and happily the captive nut will be undamaged. A
now you still have to do that, as the bolt will come down and the captive nut will actually let the bolt unwind. if it doesnt putting a screwdrive in the top will stop it.
so. please read. remove cradle.
08-28-2013 | 10:18 PM
#62
The leading (front) CAB is not Delrin, its a composite material I dont divulge that resists salt.
you dont need leading CABS unless your arms are shot.
08-28-2013 | 10:57 PM
#67
wow. the answer to the issue is in the first post. I must not be able to write it clearly enough. The center of the cab insert is steel it rusts to the bolt, and when you unscrew the bolt the seized sleeve wont let the bolt drop and it wrecks the captive nut.
post 1. please read.
Up until now, I had figured that the primary issue is corrosion seizing the cradle/control arm bolt captive nut. Its probably not. Its the control arm bushing center sleeve seizing on the bolt and stopping the bolt from dropping as you unwind it, and therefore tearing the captive nut out of the body.
that means, Chris you cant get the control arm out as the bolt wont drop. Noor is at the end of his rope, and didnt read what I had posted, and me, I figured by posting this thread I would help people NOT wreck the captive nut.
i was wrong i suppose.
post 1. please read.
Up until now, I had figured that the primary issue is corrosion seizing the cradle/control arm bolt captive nut. Its probably not. Its the control arm bushing center sleeve seizing on the bolt and stopping the bolt from dropping as you unwind it, and therefore tearing the captive nut out of the body.
that means, Chris you cant get the control arm out as the bolt wont drop. Noor is at the end of his rope, and didnt read what I had posted, and me, I figured by posting this thread I would help people NOT wreck the captive nut.
i was wrong i suppose.
Last edited by Powell Race Parts; 08-28-2013 at 11:02 PM.
08-28-2013 | 11:01 PM
#68
John- Sorry I didn't elaborate more:
When I did my clutch 2 weeks ago and had the subframe dropped I did try to get the bolt out. Hammering on it for 10 minutes literally did nothing, I feel like a true press would have been needed. I gave up after this and reinstalled everything with the bad control arm bushging. Thought it would be better to install your spherical ones anyways instead of the BS replacements I bought at autozone. So your saying I should drop the subframe again and try with a hammer?
When I did my clutch 2 weeks ago and had the subframe dropped I did try to get the bolt out. Hammering on it for 10 minutes literally did nothing, I feel like a true press would have been needed. I gave up after this and reinstalled everything with the bad control arm bushging. Thought it would be better to install your spherical ones anyways instead of the BS replacements I bought at autozone. So your saying I should drop the subframe again and try with a hammer?
08-28-2013 | 11:08 PM
#69
John- Sorry I didn't elaborate more:
When I did my clutch 2 weeks ago and had the subframe dropped I did try to get the bolt out. Hammering on it for 10 minutes literally did nothing, I feel like a true press would have been needed. I gave up after this and reinstalled everything with the bad control arm bushging. Thought it would be better to install your spherical ones anyways instead of the BS replacements I bought at autozone. So your saying I should drop the subframe again and try with a hammer?
When I did my clutch 2 weeks ago and had the subframe dropped I did try to get the bolt out. Hammering on it for 10 minutes literally did nothing, I feel like a true press would have been needed. I gave up after this and reinstalled everything with the bad control arm bushging. Thought it would be better to install your spherical ones anyways instead of the BS replacements I bought at autozone. So your saying I should drop the subframe again and try with a hammer?
drop it.
then heat the center bushing insert. it will burn away quickly cherry red is best. Prepare in advance by placing a large pipe or socket over the bolt head underneath against the cradle. and then hammer. A press would be ok but awkward, and not as effective as impact from a BFH. PS Noor text or email me next time happy to help.
08-28-2013 | 11:28 PM
#73
PS IN my how to for installing cabs that I send folks who purchase cabs, I suggest using a propane torch to heat the arm up in the cab eye to grow the hole, prior to installing the new spherical cab. We make the new CAB insert a hard fit, and using heat and an hydraulic press or the GM Kent moore tool will work well. Not using heat will make it much more difficult.
