Powell's take on replacing bad control arm bushings.
06-18-2014 | 02:26 PM
#151
Senior Member
Joined: 08-09-07
Posts: 993
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, Ohio
So I m wondering if this is my problem then.. As I driv down the road on my passenger side I here clucking sounds as I drive over the uneven road, and its annoying. I was trying to figure if it was motor mount, or strut. It's very noticeable to hear in the car too..
06-18-2014 | 06:47 PM
#152
Senior Member
Joined: 06-03-07
Posts: 14,148
Likes: 71
From: NY
So I m wondering if this is my problem then.. As I driv down the road on my passenger side I here clucking sounds as I drive over the uneven road, and its annoying. I was trying to figure if it was motor mount, or strut. It's very noticeable to hear in the car too..
07-10-2014 | 08:20 PM
#153
I think I might have the same problem.
I just had the cab and leading cab installed. It was like night and day. The creaking sound was gone ( I had the creaking noise ever since the YYZ springs ) everything was awesome until 2 days later. I drove down a brick road at about 30 35mph. And now the creaking sound is back and stronger. Its kinds like a creaking / chunking and It is verry noticeable when I drive in reverse at about 10 mpg and stopr, or driving forward at 10 mpg and stop quickly. And also makes the creaking / piping noise ( just not as loud ) when I hit a bump at low speed or turn 100% at low speed. I put my car on ramps and all the cab look to be fine and in place. Any idea on why now I am getting a louder creaking / chunking noise?
I just had the cab and leading cab installed. It was like night and day. The creaking sound was gone ( I had the creaking noise ever since the YYZ springs ) everything was awesome until 2 days later. I drove down a brick road at about 30 35mph. And now the creaking sound is back and stronger. Its kinds like a creaking / chunking and It is verry noticeable when I drive in reverse at about 10 mpg and stopr, or driving forward at 10 mpg and stop quickly. And also makes the creaking / piping noise ( just not as loud ) when I hit a bump at low speed or turn 100% at low speed. I put my car on ramps and all the cab look to be fine and in place. Any idea on why now I am getting a louder creaking / chunking noise?
07-10-2014 | 10:48 PM
#157
If the leading cabs we make are installed ( they are shipped with some very good special grease) are too tight a fit this can happen. We recommend in the install using a hand reamer if they are two tight. We make them a loose fit but the problem is no two arms are the same and some of them are so tight dimensionally the bushings press in the arm but the arm constricts them. Warren wang used a flapper sander on the end of a drill as he did not have a hand reamer.
if they are too tight they will creak. pita noise but it wont break the stainless pins lol. let me know |I emailed you this info and its in the install instructions we send out.
if they are too tight they will creak. pita noise but it wont break the stainless pins lol. let me know |I emailed you this info and its in the install instructions we send out.
07-25-2014 | 01:25 PM
#158
Hey Jhon you were right 
. It was the swaybar endlinks. No more clunk / creaking noise. Sorry it work me so long to get back. I was on vacation in Key West.
If anyone has not been I recommend it. So much fun from fishing, snorkeling, bar hoping. I can't wait to go back.
. It was the swaybar endlinks. No more clunk / creaking noise. Sorry it work me so long to get back. I was on vacation in Key West. If anyone has not been I recommend it. So much fun from fishing, snorkeling, bar hoping. I can't wait to go back.
02-16-2015 | 03:47 AM
#162
New Member
Joined: 09-01-07
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: lisle, IL
Machined spherical arms
thats for machined spherical arms not arms with leading composite pins etc control arms themselves run about 200 each, so thats 400, Dorman may sell cheaper but they are weak and bend; the LNF ones are cheaper than L:SJ but more difficult to install in an LSJ, so 400 plus shipping and taxes where applicable add trailing cabs at 199 we are running 600 add 245 for the leading composite pins then we are under 900 but have to consider freight. The installation of the parts if you buy the parts from us is no charge. Its about as cheap as one can reasonably expect.
You can buy replacement steel arms, but lately on Rock Auto they have been priced higher than alloy arms.
you can put in solid malibu bushings but they dont fit right ; you can buy Moog ball joints cheaply as well if you want to do the work yourself. But no one can find trailing cabs like ours we are the only folks who make them. A typical production run costs 10,000 dollars so please dont be surprised if I summarise the costs so you can see this is not a high margin rip off.
Amazon may have control arms cheaper, it seems to depend on the moon or something. If I could predict it, I would buy from Amazon . But day in /day out I buy GM parts from Crate Engine Depot. I pay about the same you pay, but I can depend on the GM parts quality and Tom@ced has great customer service.
that is all....lol
You can buy replacement steel arms, but lately on Rock Auto they have been priced higher than alloy arms.
you can put in solid malibu bushings but they dont fit right ; you can buy Moog ball joints cheaply as well if you want to do the work yourself. But no one can find trailing cabs like ours we are the only folks who make them. A typical production run costs 10,000 dollars so please dont be surprised if I summarise the costs so you can see this is not a high margin rip off.
Amazon may have control arms cheaper, it seems to depend on the moon or something. If I could predict it, I would buy from Amazon . But day in /day out I buy GM parts from Crate Engine Depot. I pay about the same you pay, but I can depend on the GM parts quality and Tom@ced has great customer service.
that is all....lol
First, thanks for all the volume of information you have supplied on here. So what is the difference between the $900 machined spherical arms that you sell vs the OEM LSJ arms on CED other than the inclusion of the leading CAB? What does the machining do.
I bent my control arm avoiding another vehicle and caught a curb at 5-10 miles an hour on the snow about a month ago. From what I have seen and been told I need to replace both arms because of the bushings and the end links as well as one of the outer tie rods.
My other question is on the end links. If this is being used as my daily driver, is their any reason to get a higher quality end link than the Moog's. The powergrids look awesome but if i do not need to do any adjustments is the price difference really worth it over the k750012's? Also, should I just replace both outer tie rods while I am doing this and are the Moog's ok or would you suggest another brand?
02-17-2015 | 09:42 PM
#163
John,
First, thanks for all the volume of information you have supplied on here. So what is the difference between the $900 machined spherical arms that you sell vs the OEM LSJ arms on CED other than the inclusion of the leading CAB? What does the machining do.
I bent my control arm avoiding another vehicle and caught a curb at 5-10 miles an hour on the snow about a month ago. From what I have seen and been told I need to replace both arms because of the bushings and the end links as well as one of the outer tie rods.
My other question is on the end links. If this is being used as my daily driver, is their any reason to get a higher quality end link than the Moog's. The powergrids look awesome but if i do not need to do any adjustments is the price difference really worth it over the k750012's? Also, should I just replace both outer tie rods while I am doing this and are the Moog's ok or would you suggest another brand?
First, thanks for all the volume of information you have supplied on here. So what is the difference between the $900 machined spherical arms that you sell vs the OEM LSJ arms on CED other than the inclusion of the leading CAB? What does the machining do.
I bent my control arm avoiding another vehicle and caught a curb at 5-10 miles an hour on the snow about a month ago. From what I have seen and been told I need to replace both arms because of the bushings and the end links as well as one of the outer tie rods.
My other question is on the end links. If this is being used as my daily driver, is their any reason to get a higher quality end link than the Moog's. The powergrids look awesome but if i do not need to do any adjustments is the price difference really worth it over the k750012's? Also, should I just replace both outer tie rods while I am doing this and are the Moog's ok or would you suggest another brand?
Stock arms with the trailing Powell cab upgrade is well worth it. MY cabs are better than any other version, as they are made with better material, a stronger cross axis center joint ( by far) and better lubricity. Lifetime warranty. Never had a claim, replaced two due to installer error ( tore the boot) as I felt sorry for the poor guy.
The sway bar end links? These powergrids last for ever. The Moogs are decent but the ends are not boot encapsulated so they ( for the number I see, may be tens or twentys) corrode and go away. Stock the same way. So if you want performance and forget about ever replacing them. Powergrids get my vote. Some of the OEM cloned end links last weeks.
Hope this helps.
03-03-2015 | 11:40 AM
#164
New Member
Joined: 03-12-08
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Canada
If you want new bolts you can get them with your order, they are about 12.00 each. But read carefully what I have posted. Your best bet, is to jack the car up, and using a 21 mm socket and a Johnson bar or a 1/2 drive ratchet with a good 24 inch or greater arm. see if the cradle bolt #1 breaks loose easily and #2 immediately drops as you unwind it. If #1 is no, its tough as hell and #2 it does NOT drop as you unwind it, then do this.
On a saturday, get ready and drop cradle. make sure you have a sawzall. cut the bolt out as Noor did. Then insert the new arms and bolts if you purchased from me with lots of anti seize and you will be good.
you will need 15, 16 19 and 21 mm sockets for this job. an angle torque wrench or a black sharpie. So where 25 degrees is called for in the torque specs mark the nut the arm and the socket and after torqueing to the correct spec, tighten the nut ONE FLAT of the hex in travel= 25 degrees
On a saturday, get ready and drop cradle. make sure you have a sawzall. cut the bolt out as Noor did. Then insert the new arms and bolts if you purchased from me with lots of anti seize and you will be good.
you will need 15, 16 19 and 21 mm sockets for this job. an angle torque wrench or a black sharpie. So where 25 degrees is called for in the torque specs mark the nut the arm and the socket and after torqueing to the correct spec, tighten the nut ONE FLAT of the hex in travel= 25 degrees
Plan on doing this ASAP but a little worried about seized bolts as well , anyone have any tips other than whats here, also If I have to cut the bolt and its got a captive nut how do you get that out to change it? Any images , tips and advise would be awesome. They should be the aluminum ones as the car is a 2.4 SS sedan.
03-03-2015 | 12:19 PM
#165
Just a note about what happened on mine.
Bolts broke loose with no issues. Southern Missouri, we do get salt, but I guess not awful. I had a hell of a time lining them back up to get the bolt to start back. Angle of the control arm had to be perfect. I put the arm in the knuckle, then lifted the knuckle until the bolt slid in.
I could not see how you could put a new nut on the top without dropping the sub frame. Is there another way?
Bolts broke loose with no issues. Southern Missouri, we do get salt, but I guess not awful. I had a hell of a time lining them back up to get the bolt to start back. Angle of the control arm had to be perfect. I put the arm in the knuckle, then lifted the knuckle until the bolt slid in.
I could not see how you could put a new nut on the top without dropping the sub frame. Is there another way?
03-03-2015 | 12:25 PM
#166
New Member
Joined: 03-12-08
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Canada
03-04-2015 | 08:37 PM
#167
at the front and at the passenger rear there is enough room to extract the nut and cut bolt upwards providing the bolt left is not too long. The drivers side rear is more of a problem , no doubt. In all cases dropping the subframe is really the easiest way to tackle this sometimes horrible job.
03-05-2015 | 06:07 PM
#168
New Member
Joined: 03-12-08
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Canada
at the front and at the passenger rear there is enough room to extract the nut and cut bolt upwards providing the bolt left is not too long. The drivers side rear is more of a problem , no doubt. In all cases dropping the subframe is really the easiest way to tackle this sometimes horrible job.
03-05-2015 | 06:52 PM
#169
Member
Joined: 05-06-08
Posts: 306
Likes: 13
From: Rochester, MN
03-21-2015 | 12:47 PM
#171
New Member
Joined: 02-18-06
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Ekron, Ky
I just pulled the control arms off ours and I feel pretty damn lucky! - had none of the issues discussed on here. She has just shy of 140,000 miles so she is WAYYYY overdue for the upgrade; new Koni shocks and struts are here, Powell lower CABs and YYZ springs on the way from CED.
Thank you Mr. Powell for this discussion - can't wait to see how the girl feels with your goodies on her!
Thank you Mr. Powell for this discussion - can't wait to see how the girl feels with your goodies on her!
04-05-2015 | 09:25 PM
#172
New Member
Joined: 04-05-15
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: ohio
engine craddle bolts
I have done tons of these the easiest way I have found is cut the head off bolt use a air hammer on bolt pops the castle off the top and frees up the sleeve up sometime you need to cut bolt to remove it
04-26-2015 | 11:03 AM
#174
New Member
Joined: 04-26-15
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: NY
Did the passenger side yesterday without too much issue. Today, snapped the rear carriage bolt trying to remove it. Wish I saw this thread sooner. Anyways, it snapped in the threaded portion - slid out easily enough, and was able to remove the Control Arm. But... is there any way to remove the remainder of the bolt and captive nut without dropping the subframe? Or would removing the engine carriage still be helpful? Any tips here would be appreciated. I'm in an apartment parking lot, and my resources as far as engine lifts is fairly limited. Thanks!
04-27-2015 | 08:36 AM
#175
New Member
Joined: 04-26-15
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: NY
Just a followup - couldn't manage to get the captive nut and remaining threaded portion of bolt out from below. Ended up using a hole saw to cut a 1.5" hole directly above it through the floor board. Then was able to cut the top of the bolt off and slide the captive nut out. Replaced with a heavy wall hex nut until I can get the proper captive nut (nothing seemed to be open on the weekends...). Then I'll patch the floor and call it done.