Suspension Springs, Shocks, Brakes

Powell's take on replacing bad control arm bushings.

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Old 04-27-2015 | 11:21 AM
  #176  
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Originally Posted by sean882
Just a followup - couldn't manage to get the captive nut and remaining threaded portion of bolt out from below. Ended up using a hole saw to cut a 1.5" hole directly above it through the floor board. Then was able to cut the top of the bolt off and slide the captive nut out. Replaced with a heavy wall hex nut until I can get the proper captive nut (nothing seemed to be open on the weekends...). Then I'll patch the floor and call it done.
I just dropped mine off at the dealer for this repair. Went with MOOG K200792 from Advance. $40/ea for parts and 200 for labor. Well worth it.
Old 05-11-2015 | 11:49 PM
  #177  
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OK, so I got thru the "hard" part and got the control arm off no problem....

However, pressing the bushing out is a little more troublesome...

I'm not sure if I should just press on the rubber part or this lip (in yellow in the pic) to get it out. The lip almost looks like part of the control arm so I was afraid to press it out. Not to mention the press tool I borrowed doesn't appear to have a sleeve the exact same diameter.

Any ideas on what I should do here?

Old 05-11-2015 | 11:53 PM
  #178  
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Press on the metal lip. Find something that'll fit like a socket, or borrow a better tool kit. If you push on the bushing you're going to ruin it.

This is the best mod for the SS. It's nice to hear the tires squealing when you step on it, rather than BAM BAM BAM! lol
Old 05-11-2015 | 11:55 PM
  #179  
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Ruin the bushing? I'm replacing that so I don't care. Thanks for the info.
Old 05-11-2015 | 11:57 PM
  #180  
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Well if you press too much on it you're going to just push it through the casing and still have the metal to remove. Then how are you going to install the new one? lol
Old 05-12-2015 | 12:05 AM
  #181  
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I ran into that same issue didnt have something big enough to press It out i used some sockets like a 38 or something like that. then in the end I ended up using an air hammer to collapse that lip your talking about after that it went by pretty simple
Old 05-12-2015 | 12:06 AM
  #182  
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Well crap.... I may just end up taking them to a shop to have them pressed in. Depressing, was soooo happy to get the bolt loose.... Which was about the same as removing a lug nut. I was all worried for nothing!
Old 05-12-2015 | 12:07 AM
  #183  
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I know the ball joint press Advance Auto loans for free fits the bushing.
Old 05-12-2015 | 12:16 AM
  #184  
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Lol you might be able to get it out by pressing on the rubber, but it will rip more than likely, just fing something that will press on the metal lip and you shoukd be good if not, then u can do what I did with the air hammer and it comes out pretty fast. Pressing the new one in was pretty simple since it has more room to press from
Old 05-12-2015 | 01:49 AM
  #185  
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Meh, said screw it and went with closest one. Driver side is done.
Old 05-14-2015 | 10:53 PM
  #186  
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Is the hole in the body big enough to slip a new nut into or will I need to cut it? 5'm going to need to drop the cradle and my cage nuts are spinning
Old 06-30-2015 | 01:38 PM
  #187  
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My 06 passenger bolt was rusted in the bushing sleeve. Bushing ripped during a clutch install. Ended up heating the bushing and holding with vise grips. Used my impact gun and it broke free. Did PB blast it the day before. The nut did spin so I used a piece of square 1/8in keystock to take up some of the space in the cage. I used an arbor press for the bushing install - its not so obvious how far to press the bushing into the aluminum arm. Basically I centered the sleeve on the control arm. Applied antiseize to the MOOG bushing before pressing into the aluminum arm. Also used antiseize on the carriage bolt installs. Only question left is how long will the MOOGs last.
Attached Files
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MOOGAluminumArm.pdf (253.1 KB, 165 views)

Last edited by mjtct; 06-30-2015 at 01:44 PM.
Old 06-30-2015 | 04:39 PM
  #188  
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Originally Posted by mjtct
My 06 passenger bolt was rusted in the bushing sleeve. Bushing ripped during a clutch install. Ended up heating the bushing and holding with vise grips. Used my impact gun and it broke free. Did PB blast it the day before. The nut did spin so I used a piece of square 1/8in keystock to take up some of the space in the cage. I used an arbor press for the bushing install - its not so obvious how far to press the bushing into the aluminum arm. Basically I centered the sleeve on the control arm. Applied antiseize to the MOOG bushing before pressing into the aluminum arm. Also used antiseize on the carriage bolt installs. Only question left is how long will the MOOGs last.
When I did mine, I pressed them in just like the picture shows. I used a huge socket that would fit on the bushing without damaging the rubber boot. I think it was a 2-1/4" socket. The only thing I wasn't sure about was which side goes up. The Moog bushings are tapered on one side and flat on the other. I think I installed mine with the flat side up.
Old 09-14-2015 | 11:36 PM
  #189  
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I just bought these TCABs and I need to press them out, which I am worried about but not really. Per the instructions from Powell Racing, it calls for Loctite Green Bearing retainer on the control arm before installing the bushing. Has everyone does this or did not use anything? John says you can it (or Permatex 62040) but do not have to. Negatives to not using anything?
Old 09-15-2015 | 11:29 AM
  #190  
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Originally Posted by TotalChaos
I just bought these TCABs and I need to press them out, which I am worried about but not really. Per the instructions from Powell Racing, it calls for Loctite Green Bearing retainer on the control arm before installing the bushing. Has everyone does this or did not use anything? John says you can it (or Permatex 62040) but do not have to. Negatives to not using anything?
I took off my control arms and brought them into a local NAPA where they replaced the TCABs for mine for something like 40 bucks. Just wanted to throw that out there as an option for you
Old 09-15-2015 | 06:22 PM
  #191  
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Originally Posted by colodude18
I took off my control arms and brought them into a local NAPA where they replaced the TCABs for mine for something like 40 bucks. Just wanted to throw that out there as an option for you
thanks, ill look into that as an option
Old 09-15-2015 | 11:34 PM
  #192  
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Didn't use it and no noise.

Also I'm am probably really late, But maybe this can help someone in the future.

I did what was said before and used a air chisel and collapsed the side in and smashed it out.

The other side didn't go so smoothly, Anyways I Got a drill bit and drilled a bunch of holes in the rubber then the center of the bushing fell out, Used a flat head screw driver and a BFH for the little metal lip that was left over.

(Also the rubber being burnt from being drilled does not smell good so be well ventilated lol)


Keep us posted and I hope this helps
Old 09-15-2015 | 11:52 PM
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Great that's the same way I did it pretty much ^ worked great for me
Old 09-16-2015 | 03:14 PM
  #194  
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Originally Posted by T-fog
Didn't use it and no noise.

Also I'm am probably really late, But maybe this can help someone in the future.

I did what was said before and used a air chisel and collapsed the side in and smashed it out.

The other side didn't go so smoothly, Anyways I Got a drill bit and drilled a bunch of holes in the rubber then the center of the bushing fell out, Used a flat head screw driver and a BFH for the little metal lip that was left over.

(Also the rubber being burnt from being drilled does not smell good so be well ventilated lol)


Keep us posted and I hope this helps
I've done this before and it's worked fine... sometimes you just gotta be a little creative!
Old 09-16-2015 | 09:25 PM
  #195  
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Powell's take on replacing bad control arm bushings.

I used a jigsaw
Cut out the rubber then cut the race almost all the way through in two places being very careful not to nick the control arm then hit it inward between the two cuts and it will bend/ break at the cuts and fall right out
Worked on two different occasions for me
Old 09-16-2015 | 09:32 PM
  #196  
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That's another good idea
Old 09-18-2015 | 12:31 AM
  #197  
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I'm tackling this tomorrow. I went ahead and order the Loctite 640. Expensive for what you get! Oh well, John like to use something so I feel it is best if I use something. I am not sure how I'll get them out yet but I will figure it out. Lots of good ideas posted here!
Old 09-18-2015 | 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by chris88z24
Well if you press too much on it you're going to just push it through the casing and still have the metal to remove. Then how are you going to install the new one? lol
Yeah pushing the bushing material is a no go with a ball joint press kit. You wont have the leverage to push the bushing out, or it will separate from the sleeve.

Place the ball joint press on one side over the metal lip and press there, than do the same across from it. The bushing will begin to push out. I've installed bushings many times, and it works every time.

In fact, just last weekend I installed spherical cabs on my car. So its fresh in my memory on what works.

Last edited by Staged07SS; 09-18-2015 at 01:29 PM. Reason: spelling
Old 09-18-2015 | 01:21 PM
  #199  
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Originally Posted by Staged07SS
Yeah pushing the bushing material is a no go with a ball joint press kit. You wont have the leverage to push the pushing out, or it will separate from the sleeve.

Place the ball joint press on one side over the metal lip and press there, than do the same across from it. The bushing will begin to push out. I've installed bushings many times, and it works every time.

In fact, just last weekend I installed spherical cabs on my car. So its fresh in my memory on what works.
Hmm, I might have to try this since I've had Powells CABs for over a year now but haven't installed them yet...
Old 09-18-2015 | 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by ECaulk
Hmm, I might have to try this since I've had Powells CABs for over a year now but haven't installed them yet...
PM me if you have any issues. I'll help ya out.



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