Powell's take on replacing bad control arm bushings.
#176
Just a followup - couldn't manage to get the captive nut and remaining threaded portion of bolt out from below. Ended up using a hole saw to cut a 1.5" hole directly above it through the floor board. Then was able to cut the top of the bolt off and slide the captive nut out. Replaced with a heavy wall hex nut until I can get the proper captive nut (nothing seemed to be open on the weekends...). Then I'll patch the floor and call it done.
#177
OK, so I got thru the "hard" part and got the control arm off no problem....
However, pressing the bushing out is a little more troublesome...
I'm not sure if I should just press on the rubber part or this lip (in yellow in the pic) to get it out. The lip almost looks like part of the control arm so I was afraid to press it out. Not to mention the press tool I borrowed doesn't appear to have a sleeve the exact same diameter.
Any ideas on what I should do here?
However, pressing the bushing out is a little more troublesome...
I'm not sure if I should just press on the rubber part or this lip (in yellow in the pic) to get it out. The lip almost looks like part of the control arm so I was afraid to press it out. Not to mention the press tool I borrowed doesn't appear to have a sleeve the exact same diameter.
Any ideas on what I should do here?
#178
Press on the metal lip. Find something that'll fit like a socket, or borrow a better tool kit. If you push on the bushing you're going to ruin it.
This is the best mod for the SS. It's nice to hear the tires squealing when you step on it, rather than BAM BAM BAM! lol
This is the best mod for the SS. It's nice to hear the tires squealing when you step on it, rather than BAM BAM BAM! lol
#181
Joined: 04-18-14
Posts: 16,465
Likes: 603
From: El Paso, TX
I ran into that same issue didnt have something big enough to press It out i used some sockets like a 38 or something like that. then in the end I ended up using an air hammer to collapse that lip your talking about after that it went by pretty simple
#182
Well crap.... I may just end up taking them to a shop to have them pressed in. Depressing, was soooo happy to get the bolt loose.... Which was about the same as removing a lug nut. I was all worried for nothing!
#184
Joined: 04-18-14
Posts: 16,465
Likes: 603
From: El Paso, TX
Lol you might be able to get it out by pressing on the rubber, but it will rip more than likely, just fing something that will press on the metal lip and you shoukd be good if not, then u can do what I did with the air hammer and it comes out pretty fast. Pressing the new one in was pretty simple since it has more room to press from
#187
My 06 passenger bolt was rusted in the bushing sleeve. Bushing ripped during a clutch install. Ended up heating the bushing and holding with vise grips. Used my impact gun and it broke free. Did PB blast it the day before. The nut did spin so I used a piece of square 1/8in keystock to take up some of the space in the cage. I used an arbor press for the bushing install - its not so obvious how far to press the bushing into the aluminum arm. Basically I centered the sleeve on the control arm. Applied antiseize to the MOOG bushing before pressing into the aluminum arm. Also used antiseize on the carriage bolt installs. Only question left is how long will the MOOGs last.
Last edited by mjtct; 06-30-2015 at 01:44 PM.
#188
My 06 passenger bolt was rusted in the bushing sleeve. Bushing ripped during a clutch install. Ended up heating the bushing and holding with vise grips. Used my impact gun and it broke free. Did PB blast it the day before. The nut did spin so I used a piece of square 1/8in keystock to take up some of the space in the cage. I used an arbor press for the bushing install - its not so obvious how far to press the bushing into the aluminum arm. Basically I centered the sleeve on the control arm. Applied antiseize to the MOOG bushing before pressing into the aluminum arm. Also used antiseize on the carriage bolt installs. Only question left is how long will the MOOGs last.
#189
I just bought these TCABs and I need to press them out, which I am worried about but not really. Per the instructions from Powell Racing, it calls for Loctite Green Bearing retainer on the control arm before installing the bushing. Has everyone does this or did not use anything? John says you can it (or Permatex 62040) but do not have to. Negatives to not using anything?
#190
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: 01-12-10
Posts: 2,692
Likes: 171
From: Greater Denver Area, Colorado
I just bought these TCABs and I need to press them out, which I am worried about but not really. Per the instructions from Powell Racing, it calls for Loctite Green Bearing retainer on the control arm before installing the bushing. Has everyone does this or did not use anything? John says you can it (or Permatex 62040) but do not have to. Negatives to not using anything?
#191
#192
Didn't use it and no noise.
Also I'm am probably really late, But maybe this can help someone in the future.
I did what was said before and used a air chisel and collapsed the side in and smashed it out.
The other side didn't go so smoothly, Anyways I Got a drill bit and drilled a bunch of holes in the rubber then the center of the bushing fell out, Used a flat head screw driver and a BFH for the little metal lip that was left over.
(Also the rubber being burnt from being drilled does not smell good so be well ventilated lol)
Keep us posted and I hope this helps
Also I'm am probably really late, But maybe this can help someone in the future.
I did what was said before and used a air chisel and collapsed the side in and smashed it out.
The other side didn't go so smoothly, Anyways I Got a drill bit and drilled a bunch of holes in the rubber then the center of the bushing fell out, Used a flat head screw driver and a BFH for the little metal lip that was left over.
(Also the rubber being burnt from being drilled does not smell good so be well ventilated lol)
Keep us posted and I hope this helps
#194
Didn't use it and no noise.
Also I'm am probably really late, But maybe this can help someone in the future.
I did what was said before and used a air chisel and collapsed the side in and smashed it out.
The other side didn't go so smoothly, Anyways I Got a drill bit and drilled a bunch of holes in the rubber then the center of the bushing fell out, Used a flat head screw driver and a BFH for the little metal lip that was left over.
(Also the rubber being burnt from being drilled does not smell good so be well ventilated lol)
Keep us posted and I hope this helps
Also I'm am probably really late, But maybe this can help someone in the future.
I did what was said before and used a air chisel and collapsed the side in and smashed it out.
The other side didn't go so smoothly, Anyways I Got a drill bit and drilled a bunch of holes in the rubber then the center of the bushing fell out, Used a flat head screw driver and a BFH for the little metal lip that was left over.
(Also the rubber being burnt from being drilled does not smell good so be well ventilated lol)
Keep us posted and I hope this helps
#195
Powell's take on replacing bad control arm bushings.
I used a jigsaw
Cut out the rubber then cut the race almost all the way through in two places being very careful not to nick the control arm then hit it inward between the two cuts and it will bend/ break at the cuts and fall right out
Worked on two different occasions for me
Cut out the rubber then cut the race almost all the way through in two places being very careful not to nick the control arm then hit it inward between the two cuts and it will bend/ break at the cuts and fall right out
Worked on two different occasions for me
#197
I'm tackling this tomorrow. I went ahead and order the Loctite 640. Expensive for what you get! Oh well, John like to use something so I feel it is best if I use something. I am not sure how I'll get them out yet but I will figure it out. Lots of good ideas posted here!
#198
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,331
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
Place the ball joint press on one side over the metal lip and press there, than do the same across from it. The bushing will begin to push out. I've installed bushings many times, and it works every time.
In fact, just last weekend I installed spherical cabs on my car. So its fresh in my memory on what works.
Last edited by Staged07SS; 09-18-2015 at 01:29 PM. Reason: spelling
#199
Yeah pushing the bushing material is a no go with a ball joint press kit. You wont have the leverage to push the pushing out, or it will separate from the sleeve.
Place the ball joint press on one side over the metal lip and press there, than do the same across from it. The bushing will begin to push out. I've installed bushings many times, and it works every time.
In fact, just last weekend I installed spherical cabs on my car. So its fresh in my memory on what works.
Place the ball joint press on one side over the metal lip and press there, than do the same across from it. The bushing will begin to push out. I've installed bushings many times, and it works every time.
In fact, just last weekend I installed spherical cabs on my car. So its fresh in my memory on what works.
#200
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,331
Likes: 197
From: NEPA