Rear suspension rattle? Check your bushings!
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: 01-12-10
Posts: 2,692
Likes: 171
From: Greater Denver Area, Colorado
Rear suspension rattle? Check your bushings!
I've had a loud metal rattle or clunking in my rear suspension for a long time and until recently I was unable to determine the cause. At a recent car show I managed to make a video of the culprit: the right rear twisting bar bushing:
I ordered Powell Race Shop replacement bushings and swapped them out last weekend.
It turns out the right side bushing has worn down on the outer side against the bracket, and also the bolt had worn down the orifice on the inside:
On the left, the left hand bushing, still intact, on the right the worn down one:
This picture clearly shows how the bolt has eroded away the aluminum sleeve:
As I said, this had been going on for some time, as evidenced by the amount of material missing in this picture!!
Install:
I haven't done any hard cornering yet to tell the difference but that annoying rattle is finally gone and I can't tell you how happy that makes me!
So if you have a similar rattle, take off the e-brake, grab your rear rim by two spokes and shake it up. If your bushing moves like mine, it's time to email Gloria
I ordered Powell Race Shop replacement bushings and swapped them out last weekend.
It turns out the right side bushing has worn down on the outer side against the bracket, and also the bolt had worn down the orifice on the inside:
On the left, the left hand bushing, still intact, on the right the worn down one:
This picture clearly shows how the bolt has eroded away the aluminum sleeve:
As I said, this had been going on for some time, as evidenced by the amount of material missing in this picture!!
Install:
I haven't done any hard cornering yet to tell the difference but that annoying rattle is finally gone and I can't tell you how happy that makes me!
So if you have a similar rattle, take off the e-brake, grab your rear rim by two spokes and shake it up. If your bushing moves like mine, it's time to email Gloria
Last edited by colodude18; 08-29-2013 at 08:26 PM.
#2
How hard was the install and how much did they cost? I have this rattle/noise and I've replaced pretty much every bushing except those and still have the noise.
Sent from my Nokia 3100 using CobaltSS
Sent from my Nokia 3100 using CobaltSS
#3
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: 01-12-10
Posts: 2,692
Likes: 171
From: Greater Denver Area, Colorado
Install was relatively easy, although the damaged bushing took quite a few whacks with the hammer to get out. A heavy hammer will help, all we had was just a dinky claw hammer.
PRS Twisting Beam Bushings with hardware are 395.00 per set.
Ask John to send you the Kent Moore tool on loan. You NEED this to install them. (Come to think of it, I still have it, I promise I'll mail it back tomorrow Gloria!)
PRS Twisting Beam Bushings with hardware are 395.00 per set.
Ask John to send you the Kent Moore tool on loan. You NEED this to install them. (Come to think of it, I still have it, I promise I'll mail it back tomorrow Gloria!)
#6
darn thats a nice write up the stock bushings had really died big time. If you think the upgrade is expensive, go price stock ones. lol.
I sell used bushings to some pretty far places haha.
I sell used bushings to some pretty far places haha.
#7
#11
for sure I am running low on those for redrilling, so chat with gloria for a credit against your check valve purchase lol
#14
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: 01-12-10
Posts: 2,692
Likes: 171
From: Greater Denver Area, Colorado
I know the Powell bushings are a bit more expensive, but if you replace them with stock guess what is going to happen again?
Anyways here's the link on CED:
Cobalt Axle Bushing 25782808
Anyways here's the link on CED:
Cobalt Axle Bushing 25782808
#17
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: 01-12-10
Posts: 2,692
Likes: 171
From: Greater Denver Area, Colorado
John pretty much guarantees his products for the life of the car at least that's been my experience.
Oh and Joemann892: I just came across my old bushings in the basement, the passenger side was the bad one, but if you pay for shipping I'd be happy to send you the driver's side one for free. It looks absolutely fine. Just PM me if you're interested...
Oh and Joemann892: I just came across my old bushings in the basement, the passenger side was the bad one, but if you pay for shipping I'd be happy to send you the driver's side one for free. It looks absolutely fine. Just PM me if you're interested...
#20
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: 01-12-10
Posts: 2,692
Likes: 171
From: Greater Denver Area, Colorado
We just used my two cheapo Craftsman hydraulic jacks...then put jack stands under the car so we could use the same 2 jacks to support the rear twisting beam while unbolting it. The wheel was also just there for additional support during install ;-)
#21
I was seriously considering having someone weld in some jacking plates, but then, where? Sigh
#22
Powell also sells under car rails which gives you a jack point in the middle of the car. Still on my to do list. Guess I have to add these bushings too, have had this noise for a while.
#23
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: 01-12-10
Posts: 2,692
Likes: 171
From: Greater Denver Area, Colorado
Gotcha. I usually jack the car up by putting a small 2x4 just behind the pinch weld on the side of the car. My 2x4 is long enough so there's room for the jack stand if I need to use that...
#24
what are the added benifits of using powells compared to just replacing them with stock bushings from CED ?
Powell $395 + shipping
or
CED $160+shipping
Thats a huge price differential. Just curious cuz mine need replacing
Powell $395 + shipping
or
CED $160+shipping
Thats a huge price differential. Just curious cuz mine need replacing
#25
Thanks for the info, I might have to do that. It sounds like the underbody rails suggested by disposable hero are a reasonable solution to my "problem" though. If they don't weight too much or are crazy expensive. I'm a pretty firm believer in subframe rails too so perhaps that will work out for me.